- Full Title: 100 More Easy Recipes In Jars
- Autor: Bonnie Scott
- Print Length: 168 pages
- Publisher: CreateSpace Independent Publishing Platform
- Publication Date: October 8, 2013
- Language: English
- ISBN-10: 1492936634
- ISBN-13: 978-1492936633
- Download File Format | Size: pdf, epub | 5,57 Mb
ns taking pictures in the seventies, these photos show what was actually a very fun and festive sixtieth birthday party for my grandmother. (She’s in the yellow hanbok, the traditional Korean dress. Next to her, looking smashing in a ruffled orange and brown dress, is me!) My mother and grandmother spent days cooking for the party, and my father (the cool dude in sunglasses) hosted the party at our house in Seoul on a beautiful day in May.
My first job in my grandmother’s kitchen was to plate the banchan for the family’s evening dinner. Some nights, it would only be two or three little dishes to go with fluffy steamed rice and doenjang jjigae, a soothing bowl of silky potatoes, soft tofu, and sweet squash stewed with the nutty Korean soybean paste. If we were having guests over or celebrating a birthday, I helped bring out the large black lacquered dinner table and filled it with homemade goodies: marinated steamed eggplant from the garden; soy-pickled perilla leaves I helped to harvest the week prior; pan-fried eggs rolled with diced vegetables; sun-dried radishes from last year’s harvest spiked with vinegar and fiery pepper flakes; and dried squid doused with honey and the chile paste called gochujang.
There might have also been japchae, glossy, slinky sweet potato starch noodles tossed with half a dozen vegetables; a whole fresh fish salted overnight and simply broiled; steamed egg custard with pollack roe; kimchi, usually both napa cabbage and cubed moo radish; crunchy squares of roasted seaweed; and ganjang gaejang, soy-marinated raw female crab filled with roe, claws crushed to soak up the brine. Finally, the thinly sliced, sweet soy-marinated and pan-seared bulgogi would hit the table.
My favorites were the egg custard, the marinated eggplant, and the seaweed, but especially the bulgogi. I would covet the sauce rather than the beef itself, tilting the bowl so I could scoop it out and pour it over my rice with a little kimchi.
I look back now and know how amazing it was to have experienced this traditional Korean way of eating and cooking in my native country, if only as a small child. I moved to the United States when I was ten, and my family quickly embraced American culinary habits. We still ate Korean food, but we got pizza delivered, too. (Though my dad would put kimchi on it.)
Flash forward thirty-five years later: I’m a classically trained chef with years of experience working at some of the best new American kitchens in New York City, including my own twelve-year-old Brooklyn restaurant called the Good Fork. But those flavors of home—piled up on that black laquered table so long ago—are all I want to eat.
My mother (center) with friends at the party, enjoying the fruits of her labor
And so I opened my second restaurant, Insa, in 2015. It is 100 percent Korean—dedicated to traditional flavors, recreated and reinvented in small, subtle ways from what I have learned working as a professional chef. There’s the traditional K-BBQ of sliced pork belly and kalbi, or marinated short ribs, to grill right at the tables. There’s an array of Korean favorites like soondae, or blood sausage, plus crisp pan-fried pancakes with shrimp and squid, and the steamed pork belly called bossam. There is, of course, the ever-popular Korean fried chicken, aka KFC, and pan-fried mandu, or dumplings. There’s also karaoke: It is meant to be a celebratory place, big and fun and boisterous.
But there is also joy in the more simplified way my family ate at home. When I was growing up, dinner was more often than not steamed mixed rice and grains, a simple bowl of kimchi stew or soup brought still bubbling to the table, plus banchan and maybe seasonal fruit to finish the meal. Everyone got a bowl of rice, a bowl of soup, and then the banchan was where the sharing happened. More special occasions meant dwegi bulgogi on the table, or a broiled beltfish, or a soup like kalbi tang, made with succulent braised short ribs. Occasionally my mother would make wonderfully rich Chinese-Korean dishes, like jjajang myeon or black bean noodles, or kkanpoong saewoo, our version of sweet-and-sour crispy fried shrimp.
For breakfast, we had leftover banchan over rice with gochujang sauce in bibimbop, or simply fried rice tossed with whatever was left over. Leftovers were also packed into our lunch boxes, with a little rice and banchan, plus the plain rolled omelet called gyeran mari, or the roasted seaweed and rice rolls called kimbop.
My father brought out all the furniture to the front yard, so we could sit together on this very special day.
Me, age 3, severely squinting at the sun, with my sisters, Jean and Sue
I like to say Korean food is similar to southern Italian peasant food, as in we’re working with just a few humble ingredients—in our case chile paste, soybean paste, soy sauce, rice wine vinegar, sesame oil, and se
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pasta book. Flip your carbohydrate dreams upside down and strain them through this sieve of revolutionary, creative, and also traditional recipes.”
SAN FRANCISCO BOOK REVIEW ON PASTA REVOLUTION
“The perfect kitchen home companion…The practical side of things is very much on display…cook-friendly and kitchen-oriented, illuminating the process of preparing food instead of mystifying it.”
THE WALL STREET JOURNAL ON THE COOK’S ILLUSTRATED COOKBOOK
“Further proof that practice makes perfect, if not transcendent….If an intermediate cook follows the directions exactly, the results will be better than takeout or Mom’s.”
THE NEW YORK TIMES ON THE NEW BEST RECIPE
Italian Vegetable Stew
Copyright © 2017 by the Editors at America’s Test Kitchen
All rights reserved. No part of this book may be reproduced or transmitted in any manner whatsoever without written permission from the publisher, except in the case of brief quotations embodied in critical articles or reviews.
Library of Congress Cataloging-in-Publication Data
Names: America’s Test Kitchen (Firm)
Title: The complete slow cooker : from appetizers to desserts-400 must-have recipes that cook while you play (or work) / the editors at America’s Test Kitchen.
Description: Boston, MA : America Test Kitchen,  | Includes bibliographical references and index.
Identifiers: LCCN 2017020591 | ISBN 9781940352787 (alk. paper)
Subjects: LCSH: Electric cooking, Slow. | LCGFT: Cookbooks.
Classification: LCC TX827 .C653 2017 | DDC 641.5/884–dc23
LC record available at https://lccn.loc.gov/2017020591
Ebook ISBN 9781940352794
AMERICA’S TEST KITCHEN
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Also by the Editors at America’s Test Kitchen
Welcome to America’s Test Kitchen
Slow Cooker 101
CHAPTER 1 Easy Appetizers
CHAPTER 2 Bottomless Bowls
CHAPTER 3 Chicken Every Way
CHAPTER 4 Steaks, Chops, Ribs, and More
CHAPTER 5 A Roast in Every Pot
CHAPTER 6 Favorite Ways with Fish and Shellfish
CHAPTER 7 Classic Comfort Foods
CHAPTER 8 Dinner for Two
CHAPTER 9 Hearty Vegetarian Mains
CHAPTER 10 Big-Batch Pasta Sauces
CHAPTER 11 Rice, Grains, and Beans
CHAPTER 12 Vegetable Sides
CHAPTER 13 How About Brunch?
CHAPTER 14 There’s Dessert!
Nutritional Information for Our Light Recipes
Conversions and Equivalents
Welcome to America’s Test Kitchen
This book has been tested, written, and edited by the folks at America’s Test Kitchen. Located in Boston’s Seaport District in the historic Innovation and Design Building, it features 15,000 square feet of kitchen space including multiple photography and video studios. It is the home of Cook’s Illustrated magazine and Cook’s Country magazine and is the workday destination for more than 60 test cooks, editors, and cookware specialists. Our mission is to test recipes over and over again until we understand how and why they work and until we arrive at the “best” version.
We start the process of testing a recipe with a complete lack of preconceptions, which means that we accept no claim, no technique, and no recipe at face value. We simply assemble as many variations as possible, test a half-dozen of the most promising, and taste the results blind. We then construct our own recipe and continue to test it, varying ingre
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food that is sautéed, stir-fried, or made by other labor-intensive techniques. For me, the easiest thing is to throw something in the oven, set a timer, and forget about it. Grilling is great—and I’ve certainly done a lot of grilling—but it means you have to stand over a hot grill, away from everything else going on in the kitchen. The coals are too hot; they’re too cold; you never really know when the food is done just right. Instead, my Steakhouse Steaks are seared in a cast-iron pan on the top of the stove and then thrown in the oven, the way restaurants make them. The steaks come out perfectly every time—seared on the outside, done to juicy perfection on the inside.
Or take French Toast Bread Pudding, the perfect example of making something easier. Instead of standing at the stove making French toast two slices at a time, I decided to combine all the ingredients of my challah French toast recipe in one baking dish and make it into a bread pudding. Same breakfast—but so easy! Out of the oven, a dusting of confectioners’ sugar, a drizzle of maple syrup, and breakfast is ready for a crowd.
I love risotto as much as anyone but I hate standing at the stove for twenty-five minutes stirring and adding stock in small quantities. For my Easy Parmesan “Risotto” you simply throw the rice and stock into a Dutch oven and put it in the oven. Forty-five minutes later, you stir in the Parmesan and wine and serve up the most delicious risotto, lots of flavor—no stress. Meatballs and spaghetti are a great old-fashioned meal but I hate rolling all those meatballs around in a pan of hot fat—and then you have to clean yourself, the stove, and the ceiling. My Spicy Turkey Meatballs & Spaghetti are made lighter with ground turkey and they’re baked in the oven. And believe me, they’re even more delicious than your grandmother’s!
Weeknight dinners are usually easier because I can make one or two things and dinner’s ready. But dinner parties are a whole other thing; we all feel that we need to make something really special for our friends. Even with all my books full of easy recipes to make, though, my stress level can skyrocket if I try to cook six things at three different temperatures that all have to be done ten minutes before dinner. Instead, I make a plan: I’ll stagger the work and the cooking times with recipes that work for me. With cocktails I’ll serve Savory Coeur à la Crème—a delicious cheese appetizer served with mango chutney and whole-grain crackers—which actually needs to sit overnight in the refrigerator, so it’s ready whenever my guests arrive. Or I’ll make my Roasted Eggplant Caponata, which tastes even better the next day. All I have to do is toast some pita bread in the oven and it’s ready to serve. For dinner, I’ll choose an entrée like Caesar-Roasted Swordfish so I can prepare the Caesar sauce early, slather it on the swordfish before dinner, and bake it while we’re sitting around having drinks. For a side dish, I’ll make Scalloped Tomatoes—it’s like a crusty tomato gratin—that I can assemble early in the day and just throw into the oven before dinner. By the time we’re ready to eat, I’m not red in the face and completely frazzled from running back and forth from the kitchen to the living room; I’m relaxed and ready to have fun with my friends.
I really do keep the party menus pretty simple. Your friends have come to see you—not to critique your cooking skills! I’m asked all the time, “How many hors d’oeuvres do I need to make before dinner?” “None!” is my answer. If I’ve planned a really good dinner for friends and it’s going to take more than two hours to prepare, I’ll almost never make hors d’oeuvres, unless they’re really simple like my Stilton & Walnut Crackers, which I can freeze weeks ahead of time and defrost, slice, and bake before dinner. Cocktail food at my house is little silver bowls with salted cashews, ripe cherry tomatoes, vinegary caperberries, or salty potato chips. It’s elegant, it’s delicious, and frankly, no one really wants to fill up on pigs in blankets before a dinner that you’ve worked so hard on.
For dessert, if I’ve already got three or four things to make for dinner, I’ll buy a few delicious treats to serve “as is”—I might get farmstand apples, good English Cheddar, and some chilled hard apple cider; for a celebratory dessert, I like long-stemmed strawberries dipped in chocolate, a glass of demi-sec Champagne, and some store-bought cookies. And you probably have a good bakery nearby that makes a special chocolate cake that everyone loves. Who wouldn’t want that for dessert with some good vanilla ice cream or fresh berries? You’ve served a really special dessert—and you didn’t even have to turn on the oven!
When I’m working on my cookbooks, I test the recipes over and over again—and then I hand them to my wonderful assistant, Barbara Libath,
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and herbs to the Italian peasant table, and eventually to the rest of Europe, although it took time for them to gain acceptance as “respectable” foodstuffs. Ironically, many of those contemptible peasant dishes and products have now become part of the culinary repertory of the well-to-do. When a restaurant diner today delights in a bowl of polenta taragna (buckwheat polenta) in the region of Valtellina, or panzanella in Tuscany (tomaotes, cucumbers, red onions mixed with soaked stale bread and oil) in Tuscany, he is eating the dishes that kept peasants from starving.
What emerges from this slender volume is the very weighty notion that “identity… is not inscribed in the genes of a people or in the ancient history of their origin, but is constructed historically through the day-to-day dynamic exchanges between individuals, experiences, and different cultures.” After more than a half century of living, eating, and cooking in Italy, I can personally attest to Montanari’s conclusions.
Beth Archer Brombert
Italy and Italians
“Italy is made, now let us make Italians,” Massimo d’Azeglio1 is reputed to have said once the country was unified in 1861.
This statement could have been reversed: Italians finally made Italy. More than anything it was a question of numbers and proportions. Peasant masses had always lived (and would have continued to live) within locally circumscribed areas. Whereas upper classes of society—aristocrats and bourgeois—had lived for centuries in an “Italian” dimension that went beyond the political and administrative confines of the many states dotting the peninsula and the islands. This is to say that for some, at least, Italy had existed for some time. It was the Italy of a way of life, of daily practices, of mental attitudes: the Italy of culture, which identifies a country more accurately than political unity.
Alimentary and gastronomic models—always a decisive element of collective identities—were an integral part of this culture. It is on these that we will focus our attention in order to verify how the presence of a common sensibility, of shared styles and tastes, allow us to speak of a “land called Italy” as far back as the Middle Ages, when Italy was yet to come or to be imagined but when Italians already existed. For that is how they felt and characterized themselves with absolute certainty and without any ambiguity.
Jacques Le Goff observed that “the political and mental realities of the Italian Middle Ages are the Italians, far more than Italy.” The same can be said about the modern period up to 1861.
1 Massimo d’Azeglio (1778–1866), distinguished writer and statesman, preceded Camillo Cavour as prime minister to Victor Emmanuel, king of Piedmont-Sardinia, T. N.
This volume is an amplified reworking of the essay Modelli alimentari e identità italiana, which appeared in La cultura italiana, under the general editorship of L. L. Cavalli Sforza, UTET, Turin 2009, vol. VI, Cibo, gioco, festa, moda, edited by C. Petrini and U. Volli, pp. 73–89.
BEFORE THERE Was an ITALY THERE Was a EUROPE
The emergence of an “Italian” culinary culture came little by little within the broader European koine that had developed during the early Middle Ages, thanks to the encounter of Romans and “barbarians,” as the Romans disdainfully called them. This encounter, preceded by a period of brutal conflict, determined the circulation, and the integration, of various cultural models, creating a new reality that to some degree married the traditions and lifestyles of Mediterranean populations with those of the Continent, thereby moving the center from the western Mediterranean to Europe. The conflict/encounter between Romans and barbarians was echoed by the contrast between their alimentary values: the culture of bread, wine, and oil (symbols of Roman agricultural civilization) became mixed in with the culture of meat and milk, lard and butter (symbols of “barbarian” civilization, associated more with forest life than with agriculture). The prestige of the Roman model, which favored the ability to domesticate and transform nature, had to come to terms with the importance attributed by the barbarian victors to the consumption of meat and animal products. Out of this emerged a new model of production, termed “agro-forest-pastoral” by historians, in which bread and grains were on equal footing with meat and dairy products, a symbiosis simultaneously economic and mental from which the historical wealth of European cuisines derived.
This phenomenon was accelerated by the spread of Christianity, which imposed models of common behavior on the peoples of Europe. On the one hand, it conferred singular prestige on the traditional symbols of Mediterranean civilization—bread, wine, oil—that became cult emblems and instruments of the new religion (bread and wine for the celebration o
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an diet by far is not fat but carbohydrate.
The main purpose of body fat is the same as the gas tank on your car: to let you carry a supply of fuel around with you to provide a steady source of energy between refuelings—in this case, between meals.
The idea behind fat-restricted diets was the belief that we literally “are what we eat”—that we get fat because we eat too much fat. If we cut dietary fat, we’d automatically eat fewer calories, and as a result we’d burn our own fat—the “fuel in the tank”—instead. The only problem is it didn’t work. Twenty years of cutting fat have left Americans fatter, sicker, and more tired, not to mention with a spanking-fresh epidemic of type 2 diabetes. Why?
It turns out that there are several problems with the notion that a calorie is a calorie is a calorie: for one, we’re not cars; we’re complex living organisms. Unlike a car, which will run at the same rate right up to the moment when it sputters and dies for lack of fuel, your body has powerful mechanisms to balance the energy you take in with the energy you burn up. When you eat fewer calories, your body slows down. This is why low-calorie diets can make you tired—your body is trying to balance the fact that you’re giving it less fuel by burning less fuel. Studies show that it is very possible for dieters’ bodies to slow down so much that they won’t lose weight—may even gain it—at 1,500 calories per day, which is clinically considered a semistarvation diet. The most discouraging thing about this diet-induced metabolic slowdown is that it doesn’t just go away when you stop dieting. It persists for months. As a result, you actually gain weight eating fewer calories than you did before. That’s right. Strict low-calories diets can actually make you gain weight.
A Tale of Two Fuels
Another difference between your body and a car is that your body is a dual-fuel machine. Your car can run on only one fuel, gasoline. But your body can run on two fuels: glucose (“blood sugar”) and fat. Think about it. You’ve heard that you need carbohydrates for energy. You’ve also been told that this or that exercise will get you into your “fat-burning zone.” The truth is, your body is happy to burn either fuel.
Again, the old saying “You are what you eat” is misleading. Your body can quickly turn carbs to fat and fat and protein to carbs. You don’t need to eat fat to get fat, and you don’t need to load up on carbs to keep your blood sugar up.
Here’s the part you didn’t know: your body has to get rid of glucose before it starts burning fat. All carbohydrates turn to glucose. If you give your body a serving of carbohydrates every few hours, your body doesn’t bother to shift over to burning fat. If you have, say, cereal and juice for breakfast, a granola bar midmorning, a sandwich with a soda for lunch, pasta or a potato with dinner, and some chips in front of the television in the evening, your body can go through the whole day burning glucose instead of fat. If you have any glucose left over, your body will quickly turn it to fat and stash it on your belly, butt, or thighs.
So the question becomes “How can I get my body to burn fat instead of glucose?” The answer is simple and logical: stop giving your body all that glucose.
The Problem with Quick Energy
Maybe you have heard that carbohydrates give you “quick energy.” It sounds good. But is it?
Gasoline is quick energy, so quick that if you checked your gas tank by match light you’d be lucky to survive the experience. That’s why your car has fuel injectors—to turn quick energy into slow, constant energy, to feed just a tiny bit of that gasoline into the engine at a time. But your body doesn’t have fuel injectors. It has no way to use carbohydrates gradually. High-carbohydrate meals simply didn’t exist until mankind started farming grains and beans ten thousand years ago. That sounds like a long time, but in biological terms it really isn’t. We come from hunter-gatherer ancestors who lived on meat, vegetables, and fruit in season, and our bodies are still made for that sort of diet, rather than for a diet based on grains and beans. Rapidly digestible, high-carbohydrate foods such as starch are a very recent addition to the human diet, and we simply don’t have the mechanism to use big doses of it gradually.
When you eat a big dose of starch—say, a plate of spaghetti and a couple of slices of garlic bread—it all turns into glucose and floods into your bloodstream very quickly. Your blood sugar shoots up, and for the moment you feel satisfied. But high blood sugar is dangerous, and your body knows it. So it goes into action to get your blood sugar back down.
It’s All About Insulin
How does your body get your blood sugar back down? It releases insulin. No doubt you’ve heard that insulin is that stuff that diabetics take. But what is it? What does it do?
Insulin is a hormone with a very speci
ve got smoky nuts, you’ve got sweet beetroot, you’ve got a lovely little sherry dressing. It’s very good indeed.”
3 beetroots, 1 each of red, white, and golden, approx. 500g (1lb 2oz) in weight, well washed
salt and freshly ground black pepper
40g (1¼oz) mixed salad leaves, such as chervil, rocket, and watercress
1 medium fennel bulb, trimmed
50g (1¾oz) walnut halves
200g (7oz) soft goat’s curd cheese
FOR THE DRESSING
1 tsp sherry vinegar
1 tsp lemon juice
3 tbsp olive oil
Remove the stalks and leaves from the beetroot, leaving about 2.5cm (1in) of stalk on each beetroot, to prevent too much colour leeching out as they boil. Discard the stalks and leaves.
Place the red beetroot into one large pan and the white and golden beetroots into another. Cover with cold salted water, bring to the boil, turn down the heat, and then simmer for 30–45 minutes or until the beetroot is tender when pierced with a skewer or sharp knife.
As the beetroots are simmering, make the dressing. Whisk together the sherry vinegar, lemon juice, olive oil, and a pinch each of salt and black pepper. Add a pinch of sugar to taste.
When the beetroots are cooked, remove from the heat, drain, and then cool under cold running water. Remove the little stalk, peel the beetroot, and then thinly slice with a mandoline or sharp knife and set aside. Remember to use a separate board for each colour of beetroot to preserve the different colours.
Toss the salad leaves with a little of the dressing and place in the centre of a serving platter. Place the sliced beetroot on top of the leaves, layered up with the different colours.
Slice the fennel very thinly with a mandoline and place on top of the beetroot. Scatter the walnut halves over the top of the fennel, breaking them down slightly with a rolling pin beforehand, if necessary.
Scatter over the crumbled goat’s curd, drizzle with the rest of the dressing, and serve.
GLASS NOODLE AND HERB SALAD
Few recipes stick to the magic of great Thai cookery – one of the greatest cuisines in the world. The four essential elements are Sweet, Sour, Salty, and Hot – this salad ticks all the boxes and packs a punch. Make lots, there will never be enough.
150g (5½oz) glass noodles
1 fat green chilli, deseeded and finely chopped
20g (¾oz) palm sugar
1½ tsp nam pla (Thai fish sauce)
juice of 1 small lime
handful of mint leaves
handful of Thai basil leaves
handful of coriander leaves
½ cucumber, halved lengthways, seeds removed, and finely shredded
1 Thai pink shallot, very thinly sliced
½ long red chilli, deseeded and finely chopped
100g (3½oz) fresh white crab meat, picked
Place the noodles in a large bowl, cover with warm water, and leave for 4–5 minutes or until tender. Drain in a sieve and refresh under cold water.
Make a “nam jim” by pounding together the green chilli and palm sugar in a pestle and mortar, to form a paste. Add the nam pla and lime juice, then put to one side.
Mix the herbs with the cucumber, shallot, and red chilli, then combine with the noodles, crab meat, and nam jim to serve.
Glass noodles, or “khanom jin”, are usually made from mung beans and are therefore also called mung bean thread. They are sometimes used in soups and similar dishes but they should never be fried. You could easily use rice noodles if you prefer. Glass noodles, Thai basil, and Thai shallots are commonly available from Asian food shops.
LISA FAULKNERCelebrity 2010 Champion “I put my heart and soul into those three final dishes. I really worked hard, and I was just so scared that John and Gregg weren’t going to like it, and they loved it! I never expected the competition to be so tough. People think that when celebrities go on MasterChef everyone gives you a helping hand, but it’s not like that at all: they all go and you’re left to do it by yourself. I’m really proud of myself. I never thought – in my wildest dreams I never, ever thought – it was possible that I’d end up the winner.”
Goat’s Cheese and Red Onion Tart
JOHN “The flavours and textures were wonderful, and the pastry was light as a feather. A fantastic dish.”
> Menu contd…
Monkfish with Butternut Squash Fondant and Sauce Vierge
JOHN “I thought this dish shouldn’t work in any way, but Lisa pulled it together and it was just delicious. Very clever cooking.”
> Menu contd…
Almond Panna cotta with Poached Tamarillos and Berries
GREGG “This dessert was a pudding man’s heaven, I loved it! Soft, comforting cre