Another Person’s Poison by Matthew Smith [pdf | 1,44 Mb] ISBN: 1531888577

  • Full Title: Another Person’s Poison: A History of Food Allergy (Arts and Traditions of the Table: Perspectives on Culinary History)
  • Autor: Matthew Smith
  • Print Length: 312 pages
  • Publisher: Columbia University Press; 1 edition
  • Publication Date: May 26, 2015
  • Language: English
  • ISBN-10: 1531888577
  • ISBN-13: 978-0231164849
  • Download File Format | Size: pdf | 1,44 Mb
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To some, food allergies seem like fabricated cries for attention. To others, they pose a dangerous health threat. Food allergies are bound up with so many personal and ideological concerns that it is difficult to determine what is medical and what is myth.

Another Person’s Poison parses the political, economic, cultural, and genuine health factors of a phenomenon that dominates our interactions with others and our understanding of ourselves. For most of the twentieth century, food allergies were considered a fad or junk science. While many physicians and clinicians argued that certain foods could cause a range of chronic problems, from asthma and eczema to migraines and hyperactivity, others believed that allergies were psychosomatic.

This book traces the trajectory of this debate and its effect on public-health policy and the production, manufacture, and consumption of food. Are rising allergy rates purely the result of effective lobbying and a booming industry built on self-diagnosis and expensive remedies? Or should physicians become more flexible in their approach to food allergies and more careful in their diagnoses? Exploring the issue from scientific, political, economic, social, and patient-centered perspectives, this book is the first to engage fully with the history of a major modern affliction, illuminating society’s troubled relationship with food, disease, nature, and the creation of medical knowledge.

 

Editorial Reviews

Review

A thoughtful, well-sourced, and well-analyzed history of food allergies. This book is an important contribution to the history of medicine. It will stand as definitive for some time. (Carla Keirns, Stony Brook University)

This excellent resource is strongly recommended for those interested in the history of health research, including undergraduates, graduates, and medical professionals. (Library Journal)

While much remains to be discovered about food allergies, Smith capably introduces readers to the complex and confounding connection between what we eat and our bodies’ adverse reactions. (Booklist)

The story Mr. Smith tells is fundamentally fascinating… (New York Times)

Well-rounded… It will broaden your knowledge and may lead you to consider allergy in new ways. (New York Journal of Books)

An expansive tour…. Smith’s history is a finely detailed examination of the discipline. (Allergic Living Magazine)

An absorbing treatise…. This book is an excellent introduction to the popular topic of food allergies…. Recommended. (Choice)

Smith’s book is a fascinating overview of the contested history and meanings of food allergy over the past century. (Los Angeles Review of Books)

A focused, well-researched book…. This insightful monograph should inspire a host of other scholars. (Kendra Smith-Howard H-Sci-Med-Tech)

Smith deals lightly but competently with complex issues, using anecdotes and case studies to provide an appealing narrative. (Social History of Medicine)

About the Author

Matthew Smith is professor of history at the University of Strathclyde’s Centre for the Social History of Health and Healthcare. He is the author of An Alternative History of Hyperactivity: Food Additives and the Feingold Diet (2011) and Hyperactive: The Controversial History of ADHD (2012), and he is coeditor of Deinstitutionalisation and After: Post-War Psychiatry in the Western World (2016).

 

Keywords

e Life Nutrition

Copyright © 2012 by Alissa Segersten and Tom Malterre

All rights reserved.

Published in the United States by Harmony Books, an imprint of the Crown Publishing Group, a division of Penguin Random House LLC, New York.

crownpublishing.com

Harmony Books is a registered trademark, and the Circle colophon is a trademark of Penguin Random House LLC.

A previous edition of this work was published in the United States by Whole Life Press, Bellingham, WA, in 2012.

Library of Congress Cataloging-in-Publication Data

Names: Segersten, Alissa, author. | Malterre, Tom, author.

Title: Nourishing meals : 365 whole foods, allergy-free recipes for healing your family one meal at a time / Alissa Segersten, Tom Malterre.

Description: New York : Harmony Books, [2016] | Includes bibliographical references and index.

Identifiers: LCCN 2016003320 (print) | LCCN 2016016115 (ebook) | ISBN 9780451495921 | ISBN 9780451495938 ()

Subjects: LCSH: Gluten-free diet—Recipes.

Classification: LCC RM237.86 .S44 2016 (print) | LCC RM237.86 (ebook) | DDC 641.5/639311—dc23

LC record available at https://lccn.loc.gov/2016003320

ISBN 9780451495921

Ebook ISBN 9780451495938

Insert photographs by Alissa Segersten

Cover design by Debbie Glasserman

Cover photographs by Alissa Segersten

v4.1

prh

This book is dedicated to my Grandmother Marie, for nourishing my mother so she could nourish me.

—Alissa

This book is dedicated to all parents who relentlessly seek out what is best for their children, and to all children who deserve an opportunity to experience life to the fullest.

—Tom

Contents

Acknowledgments

Preface

Introduction

Foundations of Health

Why Whole Foods?

Food Is a Signaling Substance

What Constitutes a Processed Food?

Healthy Whole Foods

The Importance of Organics

Why Gluten-Free?

Common Symptoms of Gluten Intolerance

What Is Gluten?

Nutrient Deficiencies

Cross-Contamination

Why the Rise in Food Allergies and Sensitivities?

Potential Causes of Food Allergies and Sensitivities

Environmental Toxicity

Chronic Inflammation

Leaky Gut Syndrome

Imbalanced Gut Microflora

Lack of Digestive Enzymes

Nutrient Deficiencies

GMOs and Food Allergies

Healing the Gut

Raising Healthy Children

Nourishing Your Growing Child

Nutrition During Pregnancy

The First Three Years

Key Nutrients for Proper Development

Moving from Processed Foods to Whole Foods

A Home Environment for Health

Make It a Lifestyle!

Packing a Healthy Lunchbox

“Growing” Foods

The Recipes

Getting Started

No Caloric Information?

Guide to Ingredients

Essential Kitchen Equipment

Smoothies

Introducing Smoothies to Children

Breakfast

Starting the Day with a Healthy Breakfast

Breads and Muffins

Gluten-Free Baking Basics

Gluten-Free Sourdough Starter

Soups and Stews

Homemade Bone Broths

Salads and Vegetables

Vital Phytochemicals

How Much Should I Eat?

Getting Kids to Eat More Veggies

Whole Grains and Noodles

What Is a Whole Grain?

The Health Benefits of Grains

The Phytic Acid Story

How to Cook Whole Grains

Main Meals

Creating Balanced Family Meals

Sample Balanced Dinner Menu Plans

Dressings, Dips, and Sauces

Salad Dressings

Dips and Spreads

Fresh Salsas and Chutneys

Sauces

Wraps and Rolls

Creating a Quick Lunch

Snacks and Treats

Healthy Snacking

Desserts

Alternatives to Refined Sugar

Beverages

Homemade Beverages

Preserving the Harvest

Food Preservation Methods

Resources and Recommendations

References

Index

Acknowledgments

Most important, I’d like to thank my five children for putting up with all the recipe testing and computer work that went into this book. They helped taste-test each recipe, clean the kitchen when it was a big mess, and sometimes assisted with more than their fair share of house duties. I’d also like to put in a special mention to my oldest daughter, Lily, who prepared breakfast, lunch, and dinner many times when I was too busy writing, plus helped test so many of the recipes in this book!

I also want to give a big thank-you to my editor, Donna Loffredo, and the entire team at Harmony for helping me to create such a beautifully revised second edition of this book! I am so grateful for your insights and recommendations. You all have been so wonderful to work with.

Thank you to all of my recipe testers; your honest feedback was much appreciated. I’d also like to give special mention to a few people who tested nearly every recipe in this book: Mary Jensen, Linda Stiles, and my mom, Deb Segersten.

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ving, student.

Six ways to save money

1. Get organised Make your list while you’re actually in the house, and not on the road to the shops. Check what basics and staples you need for your storecupboard, fridge and freezer.

2. Plan ahead Think about what you fancy eating during the week and add that to your shopping list. It’s cheaper to cook for two than one in the long run, so make double the amount for some meals, then cool and freeze half. Pasta sauces, such as Simple Meat Sauce, curries, casseroles and bakes can all be doubled up and frozen in this way.

3. Share shopping bills with friends.

4. Shop sensibly Stick to your shopping list and look for special offers.

5. Use up your leftovers Heat up that small portion of pasta sauce leftover from dinner the previous day to make a quick lunch.

6. Check out the market or supermarket at the end of the day and buy some marked-down foods, but only if you need them.

Stretching meals

Meat, poultry and fish can be expensive, but you can save pounds on your food budget and still eat filling, nutritious dishes.

You don’t need to buy a giant piece of meat to serve one person. As a rough guide, a chicken breast weighing about 150g (5oz) will serve one; or buy double the weight and use for two meals.

Buy cheaper cuts of meat, such as chicken thighs and sausages. Casseroles and stews usually include plenty of vegetables, so you can just serve with bread if you like. Cook these dishes in bulk to save on fuel and then store in the fridge for up to three days or put in the freezer. Try Braised Meat or Easy Chicken & Vegetable Hotpot.

Add canned beans and pulses to bulk out stews and casseroles, whether made with meat or without. Drain and rinse them first.

Remember that frozen food can be cheaper than fresh, so if you can store it buy it.

Leftover delights

There are plenty of recipes in this book that can be made with typical fridge leftovers:

LEFTOVER

RECIPE

Apples past their best

Express Apple Tart

Bacon rashers

Bacon & Egg Salad, Quick & Easy Carbonara

Cooked pasta

Quick Winter Minestrone, Fast Macaroni Cheese, Pasta with Pesto & Beans

Cooked potatoes

Herring & Potato Salad

Custard

Cheat’s Chocolate Pots

Mixed vegetables

Cheese & Vegetable Bake, Veggie Curry

Pancake batter

Cinnamon Pancakes

Pears past their best

Pear & Blackberry Crumble

Salad

Bacon & Egg Salad, Easy Tuna Salad

Savoy/white cabbage

Quick Winter Minestrone, Easy Chicken & Vegetable Hotpot

Tomato sauce

Simple Meat Sauce

FREEZING LEFTOVERS

If you have a freezer, you can freeze small portions of leftovers if you can’t decide what to do with them right now – but don’t forget them. It’s a good idea to label them with your name, what the food is and a date.

One or two chillies Halve and deseed them, then freeze. They are easy to chop from frozen.

Fresh root ginger Peel then freeze. You can grate the ginger from frozen.

HOW TO FREEZE

Never put hot or warm food in the freezer, always cool the food thoroughly, then chill in the fridge first. Freeze liquids, stews or soups in a container, or in a bag inside a container. Leave a space of 2.5cm (1in) at the top to allow the food to expand as it freezes. Cover tightly, label and freeze. Once frozen, remove the container and store in the bag.

To freeze meat, poultry and fish, put individual portions of the food in a freezer bag, keeping it flat. Squeeze all the air out so that the bag fits snugly around the food; this avoids ‘freezer burn’. Tie or seal the bag securely, label and freeze.

Cheaper Than a Takeaway

Takeaways can be pretty tasty, and there are definitely times when cooking really does seem too much like a chore, but when you’re trying to keep costs down (and perhaps aiming to eat healthily as well) it’s a good idea to have a think and see what you can make that’s just as appealing.

Lunches on the go

Although there’s lots of choice for lunch on the high street, the costs can add up. If you make your own lunches you’ll save money, and they can taste much better too. Otherwise, use up leftovers in salads, wraps and sandwiches.

Soup

You can’t beat a homemade soup for a nutritious and warming meal. What’s more, they are cheap to make and perfect for using up leftover vegetables. Try Quick Winter Minestrone.

Pizza

Rather than buying a takeaway pizza, buy the bases and make your own. Spread some tomato purée or Quick Tomato Sauce over the base, then top with whatever you have in the fridge:

• Throw-it-all-together Naan Pizza

• Tuna Melt Pizza

• Garlic Cheese Pizza

Friday night takeaway

Many of us like a takeaway to finish up a long and tiring week, but they are expensive. Make your own takeaway alternative and it will save you money and taste
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ver, kidneys, and sweetbreads, the most perishable odd bits, were enjoyed, either by the hunter as reward for his success, or reserved for an honored elder of the group. The Romans enjoyed lavish banquets that included bird tongues and stews of goose feet and cockscombs. The ancient Greeks delighted in eating splanchna, the animal viscera. There was less of it, so it was more precious than the animal’s meat, and merited respect and special handling. In Greece, kokoretsi, skewered lamb offal wrapped with intestines, remains a popular dish. In France these odd bits are still called les parties nobles, the “noble’s pieces” or “prized parts,” and odd bits like liver, tongue, feet, and tails, were popular with the great cooks Taillevent (1398), La Varenne (1651), and Grimod (1803–1812), who all included recipes for them in their books. Odd bits’ prestige still remains high in Europe, Asia, and South America, Africa, and the Middle East, but their fortunes have fallen in the Anglo-Saxon world.

One argument put forward to explain why odd bits aren’t popular in the kitchens of the English-speaking world is that we don’t appreciate their taste and texture. This is nonsense. Sausages and puddings made with intestines stuffed with mixtures of blood, liver, lungs, heart, marrow, brains, and tongues then simmered in stews were part of the early English diet. They were not perhaps gourmet treats, but with the arrival of the Normans in 1066, the range of odd bits used and the methods of cooking them became more varied and sophisticated. Liver, giblets, and sweetbreads along with testicles, tripe, palates, and cockscombs graced the royal table. King Henry II feasted on boar’s head and the Elizabethans enjoyed bird tongues. Later, Hannah Glasse described how to cook ox tongue and udders and how to stuff a calf’s head in her Art of Cookery Made Plain and Easy (1747).

At the end the eighteenth century, the growth of abattoirs in Britain facilitated the killing of large numbers of animals in a single place, which resulted in an oversupply of odd bits. As they were very perishable and difficult to ship, they were given to the poor instead of being thrown away. The result of this generosity was that many odd bits came to be seen as food for the poor, and their prestige fell. The arrival in England, starting in the late eighteenth century, of French chefs displaced by the French Revolution made odd bits fashionable again. Eating marrow with special spoons became popular among the aristocracy, and the middle classes enjoyed oxtail soup and tripe stew. Odd bits remained popular until the Second World War, when, as one of the few protein sources not subject to rationing, they became a regular part of the English wartime diet. Then, when the war was over, eating them reminded many of hard times, and so they were often passed over for now-affordable, and more sophisticated, steak.

In a past that I can remember, odd bits were still widely eaten. Dorothy Hartley’s Food of England (1954) includes recipes for giblets, pig’s ears, cow heel, brawn, and oxtail. These dishes were part of my childhood culinary horizon, eaten at home and in restaurants and pubs. My aunt never missed an opportunity to order crumbed brains and bacon at the local watering hole, and she was famous in our family for her oxtail stew. My first job as a cook was in a large Melbourne hotel, where I was in charge of making breakfast. One of the most popular dishes was a mixed grill that included lamb’s kidney. So until quite recently, English cooks at home and abroad were eating and cooking odd bits. It is the drop in price of other cuts and the association of odd bits with hard times and poverty that has led to their decline.

But what about North America? It’s true that there is more squeamishness around eating odd bits on this continent than elsewhere, despite strong culinary traditions of using the odd bits. Native Americans ate the entire animal, and early colonists could not afford to waste any part of the animals they slaughtered. As the West opened up, son-of-a-bitch stew and bone marrow, called prairie butter, were common dishes. Buffalo tongues became a delicacy featured on restaurant menus along with ox heart, pig’s feet and kidneys.

Irma Rombauer’s Joy of Cooking (1936) has recipes for tripe, liver, oxtail, sweetbreads, brains, tongue, kidneys, and even testicles and cockscombs. While not every American was eating odd bits, a good percentage of the population was, as noted in the Joy of Cooking: “Variety meats provide welcome relief from the weekly round of beef, pork, veal, chicken, and fish.” The author goes on to note a rise in their popularity, which she attributes to her compatriots’ broadening culinary horizons due to the new American passion for travel. Americans, like Australians and the English, did travel more as airfares became affordable i
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a chicken for a family of five. This is knowledge not on sale at the supermarket, which though convenient and clean—and fast, if you’re pressed for time—lacks the sheer exuberance of the open-air Asian pasar.

Chris, an former psychology student, likes to think of cooking as therapy; the sequence of shopping, assembling, prepping, and following the final sequence of steps is a contemplative, creative and deeply satisfying activity. Taking a recipe and experimenting with it until it has gotten under your skin requires no less art and gives no less joy than learning to play a Chopin etude. We urge you to agak-agak, to judge, and adjust quantities of ingredients on the fly, to imbue the dishes with your own personal touch.

This collection of recipes is a personal and idiosyncratic one. It is not meant to be a definitive guide to Singaporean gastronomy—as if such a thing could be contained in a single volume!—nor is it an anonymous collation of ersatz ethnic expressions packaged for painless digestion. These dishes are drawn from our lives, from the home repertoires we have cooked our way through many times over the years. They are what we enjoy eating. We hope you find them shiok too!

Intense heat produces intense flavor.

Sambals, Achars, Chutneys and Sauces

Among all the things Singaporeans are notorious tor, one is absolutely true. You can always spot a group of Singaporean tourists on holiday in the Northern hemisphere, not by the “lahs” that pepper the conversation, not by the ruthless efficiency with which they bargain for souvenirs—but by their jars of home-made sambal, smuggled past Customs in a plastic bag tied with a rubber band, which they pass around surreptitiously when confronted with a bland buffet of foreign food.

This chapter, which could potentially be infinitely long, is devoted to the accompaniments and condiments that make the Singaporean meal the endlessly stimulating mix that it is.

Hoi Sin, Wine, and Sesame Oil Marinade

1 tablespoon hoi sin sauce

4 tablespoons Shaoxing rice wine

1 tablespoon sesame oil

1 tablespoon finely crushed garlic

1 teaspoon black pepper

1 tablespoon dark soy sauce

1 Blend all ingredients well. Use as a marinade for whole joints of pork, pork fillet, or chicken, before roasting.

Makes 115 ml (scant ½ cup) marinade

Preparation time: 5 minutes

Hoi Sin, Oyster and Worcestershire Sauce Marinade

2 tablespoons hoi sin sauce

2 tablespoons oyster sauce

1 tablespoon Worcestershire sauce

2 tablespoons water

1 Blend all ingredients well. Use as a marinade for barbecued spare ribs or fried chicken.

Makes 100 ml (scant ½ cup) marinade

Preparation time: 5 minutes

Wine, Oyster Sauce, and Sesame Oil Marinade

4 tablespoons Shaoxing rice wine

2 tablespoons oyster sauce

2 tablespoons sesame oil

1 tablespoon finely grated ginger

3 tablespoons water

1 Blend all ingredients. Use as a marinade for steamed chicken, as a base for braising pork or even as a sauce for stir-fried pork, beef, or liver.

Makes 180 ml (scant ¾ cup) marinade

Preparation time: 5 minutes

Tamarind and Soy Sauce Marinade

A similar blend of flavors to the Filipino adobo.

2 tablespoons tamarind pulp

6 tablespoons water

2 tablespoons dark soy sauce

1 tablespoon sugar

2 teaspoon pepper

1 teaspoon salt

1 Knead tamarind with water until pulp is dissolved. Strain and mix with all other ingredients, stirring to dissolve sugar. Cool before using to marinate chicken pieces, sliced pork, or beef before braising or sautéing.

Makes 160 ml (⅔ cup) marinade

Preparation time: 5 minutes

Basic Garam Masala

Garam masala is a warm spice mix that should be fragrant and compelling—which is why the coriander and cumin are roasted whole before grinding, for the most heightened aroma.

3 tablespoons coriander seeds

2 tablespoons cumin seeds

2 teaspoons black peppercorns

1 teaspoon ground cardamom

1 teaspoon ground cinnamon

1 teaspoon ground clove

1 teaspoon ground nutmeg

1 Set a wok (preferably non-stick, or very well seasoned) over low heat. When wok is hot, dry-fry coriander seeds for 4 to 6 minutes, stirring continuously, until they are fragrant and have darkened very slightly. Scrape into a bowl.

2 Dry-fry cumin seeds for 2 to 3 minutes until fragrant. When both spices have cooled, grind in spice grinder with black pepper until fine. Add all remaining spices and whizz just to mix. Store in an air-tight jar in a dark, dry place.

Makes scant ½ cup

Preparation time: 5 minutes

Meat Curry Powder

The Meat and Seafood Curry Powders are a time-saver if you have access to good quality ground spices (that is, those with use-by dates a long way off). That said, if you have the time—and a good spice grinder—it is worth purchasing
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thick and syrupy, about 20 minutes. Cool before serving. Store covered in the fridge for up to 1 month.

HOW TO PREPARE FRUIT RIND FOR COOKING

MAKES 2 CUPS

2 cups sliced and seeded kumquats

1 cup fresh orange juice

3 tablespoons sugar

2 tablespoons whole pink peppercorns, cracked

1 tablespoon ginger juice (squeezed from 3 tablespoons grated peeled fresh ginger)

Jam, like the ones that have come before, includes pieces of fruit, but no skin or rind. Marmalade, on the other hand, is fruit cooked with its rind in sugar. This marmalade, made with kumquats, is used in Onion Soup. The two that follow are prepared the same way but produce very different results.

1. Bring 3 cups water to a boil and blanch the kumquat in the water for about 2 minutes; this will remove some of the bitterness from the peel. Drain and let dry.

2. In a pan over low heat, simmer the orange juice and sugar until the sugar has dissolved. Add the kumquats, peppercorns, and ginger juice. Simmer, stirring occasionally, until the mixture becomes a thick, syrupy paste, 30 to 40 minutes.

3. Remove from the heat and let cool. Store covered in the fridge for up to 1 month.

VARIATION

LEMON–BLACK PEPPER MARMALADE

Blanch 2 cups diced and seeded lemon (with peel) as in step 1 of Kumquat–Pink Peppercorn Marmalade. In a pan over low heat, simmer ¼ cup fresh lemon juice and ¼ cup sugar until the sugar has dissolved. Add 2 tablespoons grated lemon zest and 2 tablespoons cracked black peppercorns and proceed as in step 2 of Kumquat–Pink Peppercorn Marmalade.

GRAPEFRUIT-CORIANDER MARMALADE

In a dry pan on medium heat, toast 2 tablespoons coriander seeds until fragrant, about 5 minutes. Set aside. Blanch 2 cups diced and seeded grapefruit, with peels, as in step 1 of Kumquat–Pink Peppercorn Marmalade. In a pan over low heat, simmer 1 cup fresh grapefruit juice and ¼ cup sugar until the sugar has dissolved. Add 2 tablespoons grated grapefruit zest and proceed as in step 2 of Kumquat–Pink Peppercorn Marmalade.

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MAKES 6 CUPS

1 cup chopped yellow onion

½ cup chopped carrot

½ cup chopped celery

¼ cup chopped fresh shiitakes

3-inch piece of lemongrass, bruised and sliced

4 garlic cloves, smashed

8 sprigs flat-leaf parsley

4 sprigs fresh cilantro

Dirt Candy’s basic stock is the basis for most of the dishes in this cookbook. All the ingredients should be chopped the same size and shape, as much as is possible, so they cook at the same speed.

1. Put all of the ingredients in a large pot with 8 cups water. Bring to a boil over medium heat, reduce the heat, and simmer until the vegetables are soft, about 30 minutes.

2. Strain and let cool. Freeze for up to 3 months, or store in the fridge for up to 1 week.

VARIATION

CORN STOCK

To make a corn stock, include 4 corncobs (with or without kernels) when making the Basic Stock recipe. I use this in grits.

ASPARAGUS STOCK

Add 2 cups diced asparagus stems and peelings to the Basic Stock recipe. This stock is used to make Asparagus Paella.

RADISH STOCK

Add 2 cups chopped radishes to the Basic Stock recipe, and use only 2 garlic cloves instead of 4. I use this in Lemon Corn Sauce.

MAKES 6 CUPS

4 cups sliced carrots

1 cup roughly chopped yellow onion

3 garlic cloves, chopped

1 cup sliced celery

1. Put all of the ingredients in a large pot with 8 cups water. Bring to a boil over medium heat, reduce the heat, and simmer for 30 minutes.

2. Strain and let cool. Freeze for up to 3 months, or store in the fridge for up to 1 week.

Roasted Potato Soup + Tomato Pearls (optional) + Vinegar Potatoes (optional)

SERVES 4 TO 6

⅓ cup plus ¼ cup extra-virgin olive oil

1 cup chopped white onion

10 garlic cloves, smashed

1 teaspoon grated lemon zest

6 to 8 cups Basic Stock

6 russet (Idaho) potatoes

Salt

⅓ cup crème fraîche (optional)

The trouble with potato soup: how to keep it from getting gluey. I do this by roasting the potatoes first, to break down their starches, then using a food mill instead of a blender, which keeps them from becoming overprocessed and gummy.

1. Start a pot over medium heat with ⅓ cup of the olive oil, the onion, and the garlic.

2. Add the lemon zest, then pour in 6 cups of the stock. Bring to a boil, and let boil for 15 minutes, stirring occasionally. Remove from the heat and let cool to room temperature. Puree in a blender until silky.

3. Preheat the oven to its lowest temperature (150° to 200°F). Poke holes in the potatoes with a fork and wrap them in foil.

4. Roast the potatoes for 3 hours, until tender. Unwrap the pota
r quality. What

yeast captured straight out of the air itself—the

matters is not only purity but the ionic and

wildest there is.

nutritional payload (or lack thereof ) of minerals,

metals, and the pH factor. You could spend a life-

Yeast contributes to:

time studying the organic chemistry of water and

• alcohol levels

how it affects the end product in beer craft.

• spice, flavor, and “bite”

• esters

14 BEER BITES

Beer Styles

Crisp & Clean

Hoppy & Herbal

Flavor

PILSNER: pale, dry, bitter, crisp,

ENGLISH BITTER: bronze-hued,

Cheat Sheet

faintly malty

mild, biscuity, soft

HELLES: golden, light, crisp,

PALE ALE: copper-hued,

When you think about beer in

refreshing, bready

flowery, tangy, bright; melon

terms of style, unless you have

a vast, encyclopedic memory

KÖLSCH: pale, faintly sweet,

AMERICAN IPA: dry, assertive,

for minute style distinctions,

not bitter, quenching

tangy, pungent, flowery; pine

it can be easy to get lost in the

AMERICAN PALE LAGER:

BELGIAN PALE ALE: efferves-

details. That’s why with Beer

light-bodied, faintly sweet, cold

cent, earthy, spicy, aromatic,

Bites, we set out to create more

flowery

than a cookbook with beer

VIENNA PALE LAGER: caramel-

pairings but an exploration

hued, faintly bitter, bready

BELGIAN IPA: bitter, long,

of flavor—in beers, naturally,

pungent, musty, earthy

KELLERBIER: bitter, refreshing,

and in the delicious plates

cloudy, buttery, fulsome

WHITE IPA: bright, bitter,

following.

faintly sweet, juicy, tangy;

CREAM ALE:

What you’ll find in this book

light, faintly sweet,

coriander

is far different from what you

not bitter, easy

IMPERIAL IPA:

might find in brewing text-

tropical, biscuity;

INDIA PALE LAGER: pale, clean,

books. There’s a fair amount

pine, peach, apricot, citrus

bready; citrus, lemon

of subjectivity in styles these

rind, marmalade

days as they morph and change.

DRY IRISH STOUT: light, dry,

EXTRA SPECIAL BITTER (ESB):

One person’s Belgian tripel

tangy, refreshing; cocoa

full-bodied, bitter, bready,

is another’s strong golden

tangy; shortcake

ale. Ditto for American pale

ale and the hot “session” IPA

Fruit & Spice

category—really, what’s the

difference? Another’s imperial

GOSE: light, salty, sour, spicy,

porter is someone else’s stout.

complex; coriander

This kind of hair splitting

WITBIER: light, bright, fruity,

goes on and on. Regional alle-

mineral; coriander, orange peel

giances and influences deepen

the mystery. Some beers are

HEFEWEIZEN: medium-bodied,

known by one style but exhibit

effervescent, cloudy, spicy;

the typical flavors—intense

clove

fruitiness, say—of others. And,

RYE BEER:

of course, there are sub-styles

reddish, assertive,

of the divisions of character-

stronger, vibrant, spicy

istics we settled on for the

STRONG PEACH ALE: ripe,

following cheat sheet, and the

summery, strong; peach

chapters that organize this

book. But like we said, this is

WEIZENBOCK: strong, clean,

an unscientific, subjective,

malty, bready, spicy

highly improvisational road-

SOUR/FRUIT ALE: fresh,

map to fun and flavor, not a

intense, tart, fruity, complex

thesis. It’s probably time to

open a beer. Do you have a beer

open yet? There, good.

16 BEER BITES

Sour & Complex

Malty, Rich &

Deep, Roasty &

Sweet

Smoky

SAISON & FARMHOUSE ALE:

mineral; grass, hay, apricot,

MÄRZEN:copper-hued, mild,

AMERICAN PORTER: dark

bitter greens

juicy, bready, spicy; caramel

brown, tangy, roasted; coffee

LAMBIC: deep, tangy; base-

BIÈRE DE GARDE: amber-hued,

RAUCHBIER-HELLES: crisp,

ment, barnyard, funk, cheese,

soft, dry, malty

refreshing, smoky, bready

stone fruit, lemon

BROWN ALE: medium-bodied,

MAPLE PORTER: deep brown,

GUEUZE: sparkling, bright,

soft, faintly sweet, nutty

rich, syrupy, indulgent

angular, mineral, intense

LONDON PORTER: dark,

GRÄTZER/LICHTENHAINER:

FRUIT LAMBIC: sweet or dry,

roasted; caramel, chocolate

light, sour, wheaty, smoky

tart; stone fruit, leather,

OATMEAL STOUT: light-bodied,

SCHWARZBIER: black, light,

tannins

roasted, silky, soft; coffee

tangy, clean, dry, roasted

FLANDERS RED: bright berry

OLD ALE/STOCK ALE: deep,

RAUCHBIER: spicy, smoky,

red, tart, lively, vinous; oak,

sherry-like; caramel, raisin

malty; campfire, creosote,

cherry

caramel

ABBEY DUBBEL:

FLANDERS BROWN/OUD BRUIN:

rich, spicy,

complex; caramel, cocoa

DOPPELBOCK: caramel, toffee,

sweet-sour; tobacco, malt,

treacle, espresso, chocolate

raisin, cherry

ABBEY TRIPEL: pale, sweet,

cake

STRONG B

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