- Full Title: Anthony Bourdain’s Les Halles Cookbook: Strategies, Recipes, and Techniques of Classic Bistro Cooking
- Autor: Anthony Bourdain
- Print Length: 304 pages
- Publisher: Bloomsbury USA; First Edition edition
- Publication Date: October 19, 2004
- Language: English
- ISBN-10: 158234180X
- ISBN-13: 978-1582341804
- Download File Format | Size: epub | 21,57 Mb
more and more interest in food and exciting flavours, the SORTED boys have managed to communicate cooking in a new way. Their down-to-earth approach makes an everyday necessity simple, accessible and, most of all, pleasurable. Anyone can produce platefuls of wonderful food – and anyone can enjoy it.’
KAREN BARNES, EDITOR OF DELICIOUS MAGAZINE
‘Straightforward, wholesome, foolproof and includes cheats to satisfy even the laziest cook.’
‘The SORTED team have created a cooking bible… it’s humorous and informative.’
‘All singing, all dancing YouTube gurus who are intent on transforming our lives.’
Snacks & fillings
Pasta & risotto
Meat: quick cooks
Meat: slow cooks
Meals to impress
This cookbook is crammed full of beginner’s cooking that’ll gear you up to create dozens of simple, cheap and tasty meals with, or for, your friends and family. Whether you’re a broke and starving student, a busy professional with a tight budget and even tighter time or a parent juggling a hundred and one daily tasks, then this book will definitely get you SORTED!
The SORTED adventure began with mates around a pub table, chatting about real life, real people and real food. We don’t mess around with fancy high-end dishes; instead we focus on proper grub to share with family and friends. From day one, Ben scribbled recipe ideas down on the back of beer mats for the lads to take back to uni, encouraging us to cook and eat as a group to have more fun and save some money. As word spread it was evident that more than just those around the pub table needed to try the SORTED approach to food. A cookbook supported by a bunch of online videos made perfect sense to us. So, YouTube, Facebook, Twitter and now this book became the obvious route to help us prove how much fun can be had whilst cooking with mates.
This book is supported by a fully interactive website, food hub and community at www.sortedfood.com . This is constantly updated with loads of fresh food inspiration, personal conversation with like-minded folk and all the extra bits to take you on the journey from kitchen rookie to culinary pro. Never before has getting SORTED been so easy!
SORTED recipes mostly offer a ‘good bang for your buck’. Within each chapter, some recipes are, of course, cheaper than others, so we’ve included the following symbols as a guide:
Based on a balanced diet, the nutritional symbols below help to guide you through what’s good and what’s just a little bit naughty for those special occasions:
Preparation time in minutes
Follow the link to see an online clip of the recipe being prepared by the SORTED crew
BEN & BARRY
Ben and Barry are the driving force behind the SORTED food community. Ben is a professionally trained chef with a first-class honours degree in Culinary Arts Management and eight years’ experience in a multitude of kitchen environments. He now focuses on what he loves – cooking great food with his mates and helping others enjoy food as much as he does!
Barry is always looking for an excuse to party around food. As the creative director, with his passion for photography, design and style he ensures that SORTED is shared with friends around the world. Thanks to this cookbook and hours of playing around in the kitchen with Ben and the lads, he’s becoming quite handy at cooking too.
Together with Jamie, Mike and the rest of the crew, Ben and Barry are here to guide you through the book and their personal help is only ever a click away online.
SO ARE YOU READY TO LOSE YOUR VIRGINITY IN THE KITCHEN?
SORTED will help you build basic kitchen skills, understand essential cooking principles and produce dishes to enjoy and be proud of. Arm yourself with the musketeer knife skills to murder that onion, learn how to sizzle the ultimate steak and how to fillet a fancy fish – it’s easier than you think. Then put these skills to good use through our carefully selected recipes that enable any kitchen rookie to produce fantastic grub, begin to build confidence and to get the know-how.
While actors follow the script, builders the blueprints and newsreaders are restrained by the autocue, keen rookie cooks, accomplished amateurs and professional chefs should all have the freedom to experiment a little. As your confidence grows you can begin to express yourself through food, experiment with it and have FUN at the same time. (Obviously, we’re not talking about plugging carrot sticks up your nose, flicking mashed potato across the table or laughing at every curio
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Chapter Contents 15
Addressing the Problem 42
Key Concepts 15
Industry Insight—HACCP 43
Nutrition, the Ultimate Application of Food 15
Food Handler Hygiene 44
Kitchen Sanitation 44
Cooking Temperatures 45
Storage Conditions and Practices 46
Control of Food Waste 47
Short Term 47
Long Term 48
Chapter Contents 73
What Are Additives? 48
Why Are Additives Used? 49
Key Concepts 73
How Are Additives Categorized? 49
Incidental Contaminants 50
Survey of Vegetables 75
Natural Toxicants 51
Cultural Accent—Chili Peppers 80
Industry Insight—Biotechnology 81
Study Questions 52
Aspects of Palatability 82
Selected References 52
Texture and Structure 82
Science Note—Structure of Plant Foods 82
Food Preparation 55
Science Note—Pigments 84
Nutrient Content 85
Harvesting and Marketing 87
Factors in Food Preparation 57
Fresh Vegetables 89
Chapter Contents 57
Canned and Frozen Vegetables 91
Key Concepts 57
Basic Equipment 57
Preparation Equipment 57
Vegetables in Menu Planning 93
Cooking Equipment 58
Ingredient Highlight—Broccolini 93
Industry Insight—Cutlery 59
Factors in Vegetable Cookery 94
Cultural Accent—Woks to Omelet
Nutrient Retention 94
Measuring Ingredients 61
Dry Ingredients 61
Fats and Oils 62
Preparation Procedures for Fresh Vegetables 98
Preliminary Steps 98
Safety in the Kitchen 63
Temperatures in Food Preparation 64
Freezing Temperatures 64
Intermediate Temperatures 65
Boiling Temperatures 65
Baking or Oven Roasting 101
Industry Insight—AFGP 66
Frying Temperatures 67
Stir-Frying or Panning 102
Other Techniques 102
Judging Points—Cooked Fresh
Principles of Heating Foods 69
Preparing Canned and Frozen Vegetables 103
Canned Vegetables 103
Frozen Vegetables 103
Science Note—Heating by
Adding Interest 104
Study Questions 71
Study Questions 105
Selected References 71
Selected References 105
Ingredient Highlight—Olives 136
Chapter Contents 107
Cultural Accent—Parsley, Italian Parsley, or
Key Concepts 107
Types of Salads 138
Fruit Salads 138
Vegetable Salads 139
Industry Insight—Products and By-Products 109
Industry Insight—Safety of Fresh Produce 140
Gelatin Salads 141
High-Protein Salads 141
Principles of Preparation 142
Tropical and Subtropical Fruits 112
Handling of Greens 142
Science Note—Turgor 143
Composition of Fruits 113
Assembling a Salad 144
Nutritive Value 115
Preparing Gelatin Salads 144
Marketing Aspects 116
Science Note—Gelatin Gels 145
Serving Salads 146
Fresh Fruits 117
Judging Points—Salad Preparation 147
Ingredient Highlight—Gra–pple® 119
Salad Dressings 147
Canned and Frozen Fruits 119
Temporary Emulsions 147
Cultural Accent—Fruits from Afar 121
Semipermanent Emulsion 147
Dried Fruits 123
Permanent Emulsion 148
Storage in the Home 123
Science Note—“Safe” Mayonnaise 149
Cooked Salad Dressings 149
Raw Fruits 124
Varying Salad Dressings 149
Simmered Fruits 124
Industry Insight—Diet Salad Dressings 150
Science Note—Osmotic Pressure 125
Evaluating Salad Dressings 150
Other Preparation Procedures 126
Preparation Using Canned and Frozen Fruits 126
Study Questions 150
Judging Points—Fresh Fruits 127
Selected References 151
Study Questions 128
Selected References 128
8Fats and oils 153
Chapter Contents 153
Key Concepts 153
salads and salad dressings 131
Controversial Ingredients 153
Chapter Contents 131
Types of Fats and Oils 154
Key Concepts 131
The Nutritional Perspective 132
Planning Salads 132
Cultural Accent—Ghee 154
Role in the Meal 132
Tossed or Composed 133
Whipped Spreads 155
Arrangement and Shape 134
Nutrition Input—Cholesterol and Special Spreads 156
Consumer Alert—Corn Syrup Controversy 177
Salad Oils 156
Ingredient Highlight—Honey 177
Cooking Sprays 156
Other Sweeteners 178
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s on, with a mound of powdered sugar in each plate. Also pass heavy cream or sour cream for dipping.
Trout Sauté Meunière
For 4 trout, melt 4 tablespoons butter and 2 tablespoons oil in heavy skillet. Dust trout well with flour. Sauté gently, turning several times until fish is cooked through but not overcooked, allowing 10 minutes per inch of thickness. Flesh should be moist but easily flaked with a fork or toothpick. Sprinkle with chopped parsley, and season with salt and pepper. Serve with lemon.
See p. 356.
Sliced Ripe Tomatoes
Broiled Flank Steak
Crisp Protein Toast Butter
Sliced Ripe Tomatoes
Scald tomatoes, or sear over a gas flame, to loosen skin. Peel, and slice thin. Sprinkle with salt and freshly ground pepper.
Broiled Flank Steak
You will need a steak of top quality for this. Rub steak well with salt, ground black pepper and Tabasco. Broil steak 1½ to 2 inches from the broiling unit (allowing for shrinkage and thickening) 3 to 4 minutes on each side for rare. Carve into thin slices, holding the knife at an angle of 45° or less. The diagonal slicing is essential for tenderness.
A flank steak of medium size will serve 3 to 4 people.
Sautéed Squab Chickens
Fried Cornmeal Mush
Butter Honey Apple Butter
Peel grapefruit so that white skin is completely removed. With a sharp knife, a small pointed one preferably, slice and remove each section. Dress with sugar. Add a little champagne or sherry if you wish.
Sautéed Squab Chickens
These generally weigh about 1 pound and are sold split. You decide whether you wish to serve a whole one or a half per person.
For 4 small chickens, heat 4 tablespoons butter and 1 tablespoon of oil in each of 2 large skillets. When the butter and oil are hot and bubbly, arrange the chickens, skin side down, in the pans, and brown nicely. Sprinkle with salt and freshly ground pepper, turn and continue cooking over medium heat for 12 to 15 minutes. Turn again, and test for tenderness. They should take 18 to 20 minutes. Remove to hot platter. Rinse the pan with ¼ cup cognac or Madeira, and add 2 tablespoons chopped parsley. Pour over chicken halves.
Serves 4 to 8.
Fried Cornmeal Mush
Follow directions on cornmeal package for making cornmeal mush, noting quantity required for the number of guests you are serving. Pour into a loaf tin and cool. Slice in ½-inch slices, and brown well on both sides in butter. Serve hot with honey and apple butter.
Steamed Smoked Black Cod or Sablefish
Butter Steamed Potatoes
Peel grapefruit, and carefully slice into sections with a sharp knife, freeing the fruit from the tough membrane that separates each section. Arrange in individual serving dishes. Sugar to taste, and add 2 tablespoons medium or sweet sherry to each dish. Chill.
Steamed Smoked Black Cod or Sablefish
This comes in plastic bags that may be heated in water. If purchased loose, wrap in foil and heat in a 375° oven. Serve with chopped parsley, melted butter, and lemon.
Butter Steamed Potatoes
Choose small new potatoes of uniform size. Steam them in about ½ inch butter in a heavy saucepan with a tight-fitting cover. Shake the pan several times during the cooking. Do not let potatoes overcook. Salt well with coarse salt and add freshly ground black pepper.
Wash tomatoes but leave the hulls on. Allow some moisture to remain on the skins. Place in a bowl and sprinkle with salt (preferably coarse), or pass the salt separately, and pepper.
Late breakfast (or “brunch,” to use a word I dislike) can be served any time between 11 and 1. It is not the hour that makes it breakfast but, presumably, the fact that it is the first meal of the day. In content the menu for a late breakfast is hardly distinguishable from a light luncheon, and there are few types of food that cannot be considered breakfast fare. In the menus that follow, you will find such items as fettucine Alfredo and grilled porterhouse steaks.
Of course, one thing clearly distinguishes late from early breakfast: alcoholic drinks. Bloody Marys are good for such an occasion, and so also are various wine drinks. Champagne is perfection.
Breakfast can be as informal as you wish, but it can also be a rather sumptuous affair. I do a Christmas breakfast every year, to which I invite a dozen or so close friends. It is every bit as festive as a Christmas Eve supper.
A Mint Julep Breakfast for 12
Serve perfectly made mint juleps before breakfast.
Cold Smithfield Ham
Rye or French Bread
Eggs and Mushrooms in Tarragon Cream
Cold Smithfield Ham
Smithfield hams may be bought in many parts of the country already c
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All processed foods
Soy (except for small amounts of raw, fermented soy called Nama shoyu)
All GMO foods
The first months of following this diet were not easy, and the hives did not go away immediately. This was frustrating at times, but I knew I had to persevere. It took nine months of disciplined eating and cleansing before the hives disappeared completely. That was a joyful day! But I still had a long way to go to reach complete healing. It took four and a half years of disciplined eating to achieve normal blood levels again, but I stuck with the plan and accomplished what the doctors said was impossible. At the end of my journey I felt like a new woman—full of energy, with vibrant skin and a new lease on life.
Supplements and Drainage Therapies
I took different whole-food supplements to help support my system and slowly begin the detox process. I particularly liked supplements from Standard Process and Biotics. My nutritionist’s prescriptions for these supplements varied as my blood levels changed and my body healed.
We used several different drainage therapies from Unda to drain different organs in order to bring them back to vitality. I highly recommend asking your practitioner about these therapies as they are gentle on the body and very effective. It is important that your practitioner has been trained in the proper use of these remedies.
I took these basic supplements, which most people will find beneficial whether or not they have health issues:
Green Pastures fermented cod liver oil
Pure Radiance vitamin C
I used these detox and cleansing methods:
Dry sauna—I spent twenty to twenty-five minutes in the dry sauna three times a week. The sauna helps remove toxins from the body, and I also found it very relaxing.
Dry brushing—Dry brushing can assist the body in removal of toxins and improve circulation, so I did this each evening before going to bed. A soft bristle body brush is brushed in a circular motion on the skin. It’s an economical and easy way to support the lymphatic system and help the body detox.
Castor oil packs—I treated the thyroid and liver several times a week with a cleansing castor oil pack. When placed on the body, the oil is absorbed into the lymphatic circulation.
Long walks—My body couldn’t handle intense workouts (I would be in bed for days if I overextended myself), so long walks were a gentle way to exercise and allow the lymphatic system to flush out.
Rest—I made sure to go to bed at a reasonable time and get at least nine hours of sleep a night.
What I learned:
Detox is hard! During a detox, the body is working extra hard to remove the offending toxins in the system, so you might not feel very good.
Your body needs healthy saturated fats to detox. The body needs to be nourished in order to detox, and this means plenty of animal fats.
Natural healing isn’t a quick fix. It’s a long process, but it is worth it in the end.
Here’s a chart of my blood levels over the past several years. Thyroperoxidase Ab and thyroglobulin are the two thyroid antibody levels that doctors use to diagnose a patient with Hashimoto’s disease.
It took several years, but my blood levels eventually came back to normal. While everyone is different, I’m not alone in my healing of Hashimoto’s. My nutritionist never claimed she could heal my disease, but she encouraged me to believe that the body is capable of tremendous regeneration, and so it was to that end we charged together. Kim taught me that healing comes through gentle, steady, and effective detoxification coupled with nutrient-dense, nourishing foods. It is my hope to shed light on what this looks like in a very attainable way.
If you’re struggling with chronic health issues, I encourage you to seek out a nutritionist, osteopath, naturopath, or nutritional therapy practitioner who can help guide you toward better health. Even if everyone around you says it can’t be done, follow your instincts. If you think it’s possible, run toward that hope. After my experience, I truly believe that many of the diseases that ail us can be avoided or reversed with the right foods, detox, and support.
WHY GRAIN FREE INSTEAD OF GLUTEN FREE?
Many people ask why I went completely grain-free instead of only cutting out gluten. It can seem drastic, but when you realize how grains can affect a compromised immune system, eliminating them makes sense. When grains enter the body they cause the insulin levels in the blood to rise. When they are eaten in excess over time, the body becomes overtaxed, and eventually the excessive grains can cause inflammation in the body. Inflammation is the root cause of many health issues, including diabetes, allergies, arthritis, heart disease, tendinitis, and autoimmune diseases. A grain-free diet rich
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They Teach the Wrong Lessons About Food
Whether you’re eating all juice, all cereal, or all red meat, eventually your palate will rebel against the monotony. It’s perfectly natural for you to get sick of eating the exact same ingredient over and over again,
The more restrictive the diet, it seems, the more likely the weight loss is temporary. According to recent research published in American Psychologist, while people can lose 5 to 10 percent of their weight in the first few months of a diet, up to two-thirds of them regain even more weight than they lost within 4 or 5 years.6
Many diets ignore the fact that eating is one of the great pleasures in life by depriving dieters of a huge range of foods, and no one can possibly stay on such a limiting regimen for so long. It doesn’t help that most foods on these programs don’t taste good. When you’re living off space-food-like prepackaged frozen entrees or raw kale salad all day, you’re not going to look forward to your meals—and why would you? You eat this way because you want to lose weight, but after the first few days the very idea of another frozen chicken dish and/or bowl of steamed bok choy and watercress makes your stomach turn, and so you stray from your plan for one meal and then another, and before the week is up you’re off the program altogether.
Other diets demand we hunt down hard-to-find, exotic ingredients— as if, if your local grocery store doesn’t happen to carry organic freerange venison, quail eggs, or persimmons, your whole eating plan is doomed on Day 1.
They Confuse Some Basic Nutritional Facts
Some diet programs focus exclusively on the old “calories in, calories out” rule, the theory being that if you expend more calories than you take in, you will lose weight, period, end of story. But diets that focus exclusively on calories and not what those calories are made of are completely misguided. I cannot emphasize this point enough: Not all calories are created equal.
Fourteen hundred calories of white bread is NOT the equivalent of fourteen hundred calories of salmon. Different foods affect our bodies differently, regardless of caloric content. They make you look different and feel different, too.
A recent study found that following a low-fat diet can slow down your metabolism, which makes weight loss more difficult, whereas a high-protein diet can increase the body’s fat-burning capabilities.7 Another found that low-fat diets are not the best route to lasting weight loss.8 So losing weight is not a simple matter of caloric arithmetic. You also have to consider WHAT you’re eating, not just how much of it.
And far too often, diets deprive us not only of calories but of the foods we need to live at the top of our game. If, for example, you’re on a juice fast, you’re not getting ANY protein, healthy fats, or fiber—and your body needs all of these nutrients to function. Because you’re depriving your body, you’ll probably be hungry, miserable—and extremely vulnerable to falling off the wagon. We also don’t take in enough liquids, and many of us live in a state of semidehydration, which our bodies far too often confuse for hunger, which causes us to eat more.
“While struggling with my weight, I had turned to many different programs. They all left me feeling like a failure, and I was even considering surgical weight-loss options. Harley’s plan saved me. It gave me the tools and knowledge I needed to find a healthy way of living. I have never felt so alive as I do today, and I know that I am a success.”
—Nancy Daly, lost 20 pounds in 15 days
They Push Exercise Too Much
Never thought you’d hear that from a fitness professional, did you? But overexercising can be a real problem. First off, no amount of exercise can undo the effects of a bad diet. Do you know how many minutes you have to do on an elliptical trainer to offset the caloric burden of a single slice of cheesecake? Up to an hour and a half. And no studies have shown that exercise in and of itself definitively causes weight loss. As Gary Taubes put it in his well-argued book Why We Get Fat, “very little evidence exists to support the belief that the number of calories we expend”—i.e., how much we work out—“has any effect on how fat we are.”9
I believe it’s because our over-the-top workout habits end up supercharging our appetites, ultimately causing us to consume even more calories than we would have if we’d stayed home and skipped the gym. Taubes once again states the case plainly: “Increase the energy you expend and the evidence is very good that you will increase the calories you consume to compensate.”10 Put in the simplest terms possible: The harder you work out, the hungrier you’ll be, and the more you eat. But if you want to lose weight, increasing the number of calories you’re taking in is counterproductive at best.
I started thinking about this seeming contradiction more
litres, serves 6
800ml chicken or vegetable stock
1kg frozen petit pois
Sea salt and freshly ground black pepper
A small handful of fresh mint leaves, finely chopped
4 dollops of mascarpone (about 150g)
Bring the stock to the boil in a large pan and add the peas. Cover with a lid and allow it to return to the boil. I always put a lid on while waiting for it to boil, as it speeds up the process quite considerably. Reduce the heat and simmer for 3 minutes, or until the peas are tender, then remove the pan from the heat.
Working in batches, blitz the peas and stock in a blender until smooth. Pour each batch into a clean pan as you go. Taste the soup and season with salt and pepper, then reheat it gently over a low heat.
Meanwhile, stir the mint through the mascarpone until well blended.
Once the soup has been heated through, divide it among serving bowls, put a dollop of the minted mascarpone on each one and serve piping hot.
Hot & spicy Bloody Mary soup
The morning after the night before in a steaming hot bowl of soup. Of course, the Vodka at the end is entirely optional but it does add a nice alcoholic kick, should the mood take you! I am not normally a fan of tomato soup, but this one is really full of flavour and will be one to remember.
Makes about 1.2 litres, serves 4–6
1 tbsp olive oil
1 large red onion, peeled and sliced
500g ripe tomatoes (about 5 vine or plum tomatoes), roughly chopped
1 litre tomato juice
3 squirts of tomato purée
1 bay leaf
2 tbsp soft light brown sugar
50ml Worcestershire sauce
½–1 tsp cayenne pepper (depending how spicy you like it!)
Sea salt and freshly ground black pepper
Several shakes of Tabasco sauce (optional)
Vodka, to taste (optional)
1 stick of celery, trimmed and cut into batons
Heat the oil in a large pan, add the onion and cook over a low heat for about 15 minutes until soft but not coloured. Add the tomatoes, tomato juice and purée, bay leaf, sugar, Worcestershire sauce and finally the cayenne and salt and pepper to taste. Bring to the boil, then reduce the heat a little to let it bubble away for a good 30 minutes to really get the flavours going.
Taste the soup and add more seasoning if needed, so it is just as you like it. Remove the bay leaf and discard. Then, working in two or three batches, ladle the soup into a blender and blitz until it is quite smooth but still has a little texture. Pour the blended soup into a large bowl or jug as you go. Once done, return it all to the pan and heat through gently. Add the Tabasco and Vodka, if using, and taste again, adjusting the seasoning if necessary.
Ladle the soup into warmed mugs or serving bowls and serve with the celery batons.
Deep-fried Camembert with a cranberry, Burgundy & thyme sauce
This dish is so naughty – in every way. It comes in the canapé chapter, but it is mightily fine as a meal in itself, to be perfectly honest. For me, life is too short to make cranberry sauce from scratch every time (except at Christmas!), so I like to buy a jar of ready-made and give it a little help from some herby friends.
4 tbsp red wine, preferably Burgundy
Pinch of fresh thyme leaves
150g cranberry sauce
1 egg, lightly beaten
80g natural or golden breadcrumbs
Salt and freshly ground black pepper
1 x 250g whole Camembert, unwrapped
Vegetable oil, for deep-frying
Put the red wine in a small pan and boil it until it is reduced by half, this usually happens quite quickly. Add the thyme leaves and cranberry sauce, bring it to just below the boil, then take the pan off the heat and set aside.
Put the egg in one bowl and the breadcrumbs in another, then season the breadcrumbs with salt and pepper. Cut the Camembert into four pieces, then dip into the egg and then into the breadcrumbs. Dip once again into the egg and then into the breadcrumbs. Have a slotted spoon and tongs at the ready along with a wire rack with some kitchen paper underneath it.
Fill a medium, deep pan with oil to the depth of 6cm and heat over a medium heat until a small piece of bread carefully placed in the oil browns in 60 seconds.
Carefully place the breaded cheese into the hot oil, one by one, using a slotted spoon. Put them into the pan from a low height so that the hot fat does not splash, then deep-fry until they are a lovely golden brown colour. Remove the cheese with a slotted spoon or tongs – whichever is easier for you – and place them on the wire rack. Putting them on the rack rather than straight onto kitchen paper means that they will not be sitting in their own fat and will stay nice and crispy.
Once you have cooked all of the cheese wedges, place them on serving plates with the cranberry sauce and serve straightaway with a green salad.
Light & crispy tempura prawns & soy chilli dipping sauce
This is a gre