Arabesque by Lucy Malouf Greg Malouf – ISBN: 1740667670

  • Full Title: Arabesque: Modern Middle Eastern Food
  • Autor: Lucy Malouf Greg Malouf
  • Print Length: 
  • Publisher: Hardie Grant Books; New edition edition
  • Publication Date: October 1, 2009
  • Language: English
  • ISBN-10: 1740667670
  • ISBN-13: 978-1740667678
  • Download File Format | Size: epub | 791,23 Kb
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Vegetables, in 150 Delicious Recipes

Cathy Thomas

Foreword by Cheryl Forberg, RD

Photographs by Angie Cao

Text copyright © 2013 by Melissa’s /World Variety Produce, Inc.

Photographs copyright © 2013 by ANGIE CAO.

All rights reserved. No part of this book may be reproduced in any form without written permission from the publisher.

Library of Congress Cataloging-in-Publication Data available.

ISBN 978-1-4521-0284-9 (hc)

ISBN 978-1-4521-0283-2 (pbk)

ISBN 978-1-4521-2769-9 (ebook)

Designed by CELERY DESIGN COLLABORATIVE

Typesetting by HELEN LEE

Prop styling by CHRISTINE WOLHEIM

Food styling by FANNY PAN

The photographer wishes to thank her excellent stylists, CHRISTINE &

FANNY, as well as CATHRYN LOVECRAFT, TREVOR ADAMS, and KIZZY

VATCHARAKOMONPHAN.

Alouette is a registered trademark of Léon Hatot SA; Baby Dutch Yellow Potatoes is a registered trademark of Melissa’s/World Variety Produce, Inc.; Grand Marnier is a registered trademark of Societe des Produits Marinier Lapostolle SA; Japonica is a registered trademark of Wehah Farm, Inc. DBA Lundberg Family Farms; Microplane is a registered trademark of Grace Manufacturing Inc.; Sriracha is a registered trademark of V. Thai Food Product Co., Ltd.; Twitter is a registered trademark of Twitter, Inc.; Wehani is a registered trademark of Wehah Farm, Inc. DBA Lundberg Family Farms.

CHRONICLE BOOKS LLC

680 Second Street

San Francisco, California 94107

www.chroniclebooks.com

Acknowledgments

How lucky I am to have had such a great team cheering me on. Books like this happen with the help and generosity of many people.

Enormous thanks go to Sharon and Joe Hernandez, owners of Melissa’s/World Variety Produce, for giving me the opportunity to write this book. These produce pioneers founded the company in 1984. Their family-run business has become the nation’s largest distributor of specialty and organic fruits and vegetables. The Melissa’s brand is named after Sharon and Joe’s daughter, Melissa, who—along with her husband, Aaron—takes an active role in the company.

Food writers from coast to coast rely on the information garnered from produce guru Robert Schueller, Melissa’s director of public relations. He is a walking encyclopedia of produce knowledge. His talent and enthusiasm are greatly appreciated. Thanks go to Debra Cohen, Melissa’s director of special projects, for her steadfast fact checking.

I am extremely grateful to nutrition experts Cheryl Forberg, RD, and David Feder, RD. Cheryl, a former nutritionist for NBC’s The Biggest Loser, wrote the book’s foreword and painstakingly did the nutritional analyses of the recipes. David Feder, a food writer and nutrition scientist, contributed the nutritional information related to each topic.

Heartfelt thanks to chef Ida Rodriguez, executive chef of Melissa’s corporate kitchen, along with her very talented team, chef/kitchen director Tom Fraker and chef Raquel Perez. Chef Tom and Chef Raquel tested each and every recipe in the book.

Special thanks to editorial director Bill LeBlond and associate editor Sarah Billingsley; designer Alice Chau; photographer Angie Cao; and the rest of the editing, production, marketing, and publicity team at Chronicle Books.

Finally, of course, I would like to thank my children and my husband, Phil McCullough, for their patience and love, as well as culinarian Tillie Clements, who cooked up my first newspaper food-writing gig. Thank you to Françoise Thomas, who gave me my initial lessons in French cuisine and perseverance.

Infinite gratitude to my late parents, Harriett and Loren Young, who kept our family table filled with fresh fruits and vegetables seven days a week.

—CATHY THOMAS

Contents

Foreword by Cheryl Forberg, RD . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10

Broccoli . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 49

Introduction . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 13

Couscous with Broccoli, Basil, and Pecans 52

Broccoli Stalk and Garlic Soup 53

Broccoli-Tofu Stir-Fry 54

Arugula . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 14

Brussels Sprout . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 56

Broccoli, Garbanzo, and Arugula Salad 17

Brussels Sprouts with Asian Peanut Dressing and Rice 59

Spaghetti with Arugula Pesto 19

Pan-Caramelized Brussels Sprouts with Pistachios

Arugula Salad with Parmesan, Fruit, and Easy Lavash Crackers 20

and Dried Cherries 61

Asparagus . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 21

Orange-Glazed Oven-Roasted Brussels Sprouts 62

Salmon and “Noodle” Salad 25

Cabbage . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 63

Gingered Brown Rice Confetti with Asparagus, Carrots, and Mint 26

Cabbage and Farro Soup with Pistou 66

Vegetable Patties wit
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orite recipe from each section and go to town. For instance, there’s no reason why the turkey from the Classic menu can’t be served with the chickpea-celeriac puree from the Modern menu, the fried chicken from the Southern menu with the kale and butternut squash salad from the Italian menu, and so forth.

Want to host Friendsgiving in June? That’s cool, too! These recipes are versatile enough to adapt to any season or type of party.

As for dessert, two are always better than one. I always recommend serving some kind of pie or fruit tart, like my Pear-Thyme Whole Wheat Galette—it’s harvest season after all!—paired with another crowd-pleasing sweet treat. Check out the Spicy Dark Chocolate Bark with Cranberries, Hazelnuts, and Sea Salt, the Vegan Autumn-Spice Panna Cotta, or pick up some store-bought cookies and pastries.

Freaking out about hosting your first Friendsgiving? Take a deep breath and navigate to the aptly named “Timeline to Get It All Done.” This breakdown will guide you through the whole enchilada—starting from two weeks out and taking you through that last hour before your friends arrive. Each menu has its own timeline, too, so you’ll know exactly when to chop, blend, and sauté all the things.

At the beginning of each menu, you’ll also find tips titled “A Little Help from Your Friends,” which include answers to the inevitable “Can I bring anything?” question you’ll be asked. And if wine is the specific contribution you prefer, there are suggestions for that, too.

DISCLAIMER: If you are familiar with my blog, The New Baguette, you know that I am an advocate for plant-centric eating most of the time. However, I do believe there are times for indulging in celebration food, and Friendsgiving is definitely one of them. With that said, I urge you to pay close attention to the quality of your ingredients, using, whenever possible, local organic produce and pasture-raised, grass-fed animal proteins that were grown without hormones or antibiotics. While it may be a little pricier, it’s a worthy investment for your health and that of the planet.

USEFUL TOOLS TO HAVE ON HAND

CHEF’S KNIFE: A professional chef’s knife is the best gift you can give yourself as a home cook. There is no need for that bulky knife set that sits on your counter and collects dust. Owning just one good knife will cut your prep time in half and come in handy (puns intended) for the toughest of jobs—like carving the turkey, peeling yuca, or dissecting a butternut squash. I’ve used the same Mercer brand 8-inch chef’s knife for the past ten years.

LARGE CUTTING BOARD: Your board should be large enough for you to comfortably use both your hands as you chop, freely rocking your knife back and forth, and to allow you to chop a decent amount of produce without having to clear off the board before chopping more. To keep your board from sliding as you chop, anchor it by placing a wet paper towel underneath it.

MEASURING CUPS AND SPOONS: Using proper ingredient amounts is a key contributor to the success of a recipe, especially when it comes to dessert.

FOOD PROCESSOR: A food processor is the single most important small kitchen appliance. It makes dips, spreads, purees, pesto, and pie crusts, and those are just the recipes included in this book.

MEAT THERMOMETER: If you get nervous about eating undercooked animal proteins, using an instant-read meat thermometer will alleviate your worries. If you’re cooking turkey, it’s especially important to make sure you reach the right internal temperature (165°F).

OTHER KITCHEN TOOLS: One or two large nonstick skillets, one or two standard rimmed baking sheets, a couple of pots, and a Dutch oven or high-sided roasting pan will all make cooking for a dinner party a breeze.

PARTY ESSENTIALS

For the day of the party, be sure to have bags of ice, extra drinking cups, a wine bottle opener, and cocktail napkins.

SETTING THE MOOD AND OTHER DECOR ADVICE

Although hanging banners, strewing about mini gourds, or arranging seasonal flowers is nice, it’s not always necessary. The main objective is to create a cozy environment, so start by setting the mood:

Tidy up and eliminate clutter wherever possible.

Make sure there are enough comfy spots for people to hang out (a few floor cushions and throw blankets can go a long way).

Dim the lights and light candles.

Play some tunes (try my favorite playlist).

Once your home or apartment is party ready, you can add in the extra bits of festive decor (if desired). Here’s how to get the ultimate Friendsgiving look:

Pick up a few varieties of yellow-and-orange-hued flowers, mix and match them to make a couple of floral arrangements, and place them around your home.

Use a dark blue or purple table runner to complement the yellow and orange hues.

Hang a Happy Thanksgiving banner, festive garlands, or string lights.

Print out “
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Although I had not landed at a restaurant, much less Les Frères Troisgros, by any design, observing this routine became all-consuming. As soon as I got home from school, I headed for the kitchen to watch, listen, and take notes. Jean relished calling me Mata Hari, and he punctuated the accusation with a thrust of his meat fork, which was his favorite all-purpose kitchen tool. Having made the joke, Jean would return to the piano {the edge of the stove}, pause, and then dispense a bit of culinary wisdom as he checked the doneness of a côte de bœuf.

“Do you see how this pan is à taille {the right size}? This is the first and most important thing to know. Always choose a pan that is the right size. Too small, and you crowd the meat and steam it; too large, and you burn the fat you are cooking in, and it’s not so good for the pan either. This is why we have the batterie de cuisine.”

He turned to the array of copper casseroles, six to eighteen inches wide, hanging behind him. Jean could always explain cooking techniques in a practical and logical way.

Following this unplanned curriculum, I learned many of the lessons I still apply daily, although I never really cooked at Les Frères Troisgros. Timidity and respect for their métier held me back. I occasionally summoned the confidence to help sort through spinach leaves with a commis {beginning cook}, or gingerly pluck a thrush before dropping it whole into a Robot-Coupe for their famous mousse de grives, but mostly I watched, and wrote.* But if my hesitation cost me hands-on experience, Jean, Pierre, and their cooks compensated; they made sure I tasted as many dishes, as frequently, and in as many stages of preparation, as possible.

“It tastes different today, the cream, n’est-ce pas? You see? It’s more acidic and thicker. We’ll use less lemon in the sauce.”

Or, “Taste this. Do you like it? It’s a truffle. First of the year. But they’ll get better.”

Jean had just popped a whole truffle steamed over Sauternes in my mouth.

I watched Pierre measure portions of aged Charollais beef by eye, carve them with nonchalant precision, and then taste a sliver of the raw meat that clung to his knife. Always checking. A lesson I have never forgotten.

A parade of Troisgros devotees from a dozen countries passed through the kitchen that year and most confided to me that this was not the usual three-star restaurant. It was not just the best food, it was also the simplest and purest, and the restaurant the most convivial. The seasonality and regional character of the food, coupled with lack of pretension, brought clients back over and over. The most frequent diners were business people, purveyors, neighbors, fellow restaurateurs, and the local taxman, all of whom stopped in the kitchen for a visit before Jean or Pierre prepared a simple lunch for them “off-menu.” Les amis dined on a plain dish~an omelette, half a roast chicken left from the repas du personnel {staff meal}, or the signature Troisgros escalope of salmon, but without their legendary sorrel sauce~just perfect local salmon, barely cooked, strewn with freshly chopped herbs, and moistened with olive oil and lemon juice. These clients ate very, very well.

And I learned from le Patron, Jean-Baptiste Troisgros, Jean and Pierre’s father. I shared some of my most memorable meals with him. A proud Burgundian, Jean-Baptiste was the patriarch of the house, who held court at table and struck a mix of fear and adoration in all who attended to him. The Patron, feisty at seventy-five, wore wire-rimmed glasses with dark gray lenses that enhanced his mystique tremendously. Although he could have anything he wanted, on or off the menu, Jean-Baptiste favored simple food and became utterly euphoric when presented with a carefully fried egg deglazed with sherry vinegar, flanked by pain grillé {toast}, and followed by a salad of pissenlits au lard {dandelion greens and bacon}. Likewise, he was never more irritated than when he thought a dish was even slightly overwrought, not honest or “généreux.” Le Patron admonished me never to be taken in by “cinéma dans la cuisine”~akin to saying “food for show.” His culinary edicts were always passionate, and I wrote all of them down.

The Troisgros sœur, Madeleine Troisgros Serraille, also did her part. At least twice a week she’d fetch me from her brothers’ restaurant and calmly produce a perfect family meal in her own modest kitchen~a blanquette de veau, pot-au-feu, or gratin de nouilles {macaroni and cheese, sort of}. I loved her miroton, a homey beef and onion casserole, based on the leftover pot-au-feu she had deliberately made too much of. Madeleine was a champion of the salad course and was rigorous about its seasonality~she was visibly thrilled to dress the first mâche or tender dandelion of the season. She loved every leafy thing you could eat en salade~escarole, frisée, watercress, endive, roquette {arugula
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available for you. These are all the best ingredients—straight from Nature. And you’ll see—it is truly amazing, the huge variety of easy, luscious desserts you can enjoy using just these ingredients. In fact, my guests can’t tell the difference. Whether it’s pumpkin pie or chocolate cake, people love Paleo desserts and come back for more.

Paleo desserts are for everyone. When we remove refined and inflammatory foods from our diet, we reduce the risk of chronic diseases such as diabetes, arthritis, obesity, heart disease, and cancer. Most people on the Paleo diet report that they lose weight and experience higher energy levels. They feel younger and enjoy life more fully. If you’re in good health and want to keep it that way, Paleo desserts can allow you to enjoy sweets that are both delicious and nourishing. The high quality, nutrient-dense foods in these recipes—plus no refined ingredients—will help maintain and increase your vitality. For more information on the Paleo diet, see Resources (page 219).

Every recipe in this book has been carefully tested by my own sensitive palate, and against my body’s resistance to refined foods. Anything that didn’t pass my stringent test was not included in the book. You can have the utmost confidence in knowing that each recipe went through a rigorous (well, if you call eating tasty treats for months on end rigorous) testing process.

Now, I have to warn you. You will find many new techniques in this book. The basis of most of my recipes is to use coconut to emulate our favorite desserts. For example, I found a way to grind shredded coconut by mixing it with a granulated sweetener. All you need is a food processor. I call it sweet coconut powder and use it instead of flour. This sweet coconut powder is an extremely flexible food that lends itself to delicious, low-carb desserts at a very moderate cost.

Many of my testers failed in their attempts to make these recipes. I was confused, because these were experienced cooks. Then I noticed they were substituting other sweeteners, flours, and oils than were specified in the recipes. Another common mistake was to disregard the temperature instructions, and subsequently, the dessert failed completely. Even if you are an experienced cook, please follow the recipes exactly until you develop experience with these new methods. After that, I hope you’ll be creative and teach me a few new tricks.

For some of you, this may be a completely new way of preparing food. These new methods may totally transform your relationship to desserts and your health. And don’t worry—I’ve methodically mapped it all out for you. You only need to take it one step at a time. You can then imagine yourself as your own ancestor ten thousand years ago, preparing food for your family from what you could gather in the wild (pretty neat, right?).

CRAVING SWEETS AND LOWERING CARBS

Many of us crave sweets. This has a direct impact on our eating habits and our health. What do the ancient medical systems in the world say about food cravings? Chinese medicine, one of the oldest known systems, recognizes five flavors that the body needs to be in balance: sweet, spicy, salty, sour, and bitter. Our ancestors understood that it’s important to have a bit of each flavor at every meal.

Which of these five flavors do you crave most? Craving signals a need or an imbalance in the body. If you’ve cut out all the sweet tastes from your diet, such as dairy, grains, and legumes, then it’s understandable you might feel a desire for sweets. Chinese medicine also observes that a diet high in refined sugar accelerates aging in the body. The role of this book is to help you to feel young and achieve a balance of flavors by enjoying natural sweets that do not raise blood sugar levels or cause an insulin response. In the recipes that follow, you’ll find a host of delicious recipes aimed at stabilizing your metabolism for optimum health.

There are no requirements in human nutrition for carbohydrates. Grains are totally unnecessary.

—MARK SISSON, CHAMPION IRON MAN AND AUTHOR OF THE BEST-SELLING PRIMAL BLUEPRINT

When we eat—what happens? We first sense the texture—is it crunchy or smooth? Then the taste informs our mouth and sense of smell, telling us if what we’re eating is sweet, or bitter, or chocolate. Then we swallow, and this is the real litmus test for me. How does it feel in my body? Is it a yes? A maybe? Or a definite no? What I call real food—food made with pure, natural ingredients—is delicious all the way down into the body. And these desserts are real food. After all, the underlying reason to eat good food is to enjoy health. Knowing that you can have sweets on the Paleo diet is great news. Real food promotes health on all levels—body, mind, and spirit. Eating real food shows respect for your body, and allows you to live in harmony with planet Earth. And who doesn’t want that?

In our modern society, refined ca
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ans and spread it so that it is smooth in the pan(s). Bake until a toothpick inserted in the center comes out clean, about 45 minutes for the 9 × 13-inch pan or 55 minutes for the 8-inch pans, rotating the pan(s) halfway through.

7Transfer to a wire rack and let cool completely in the pan(s). Cover tightly with plastic wrap and refrigerate overnight. Loosen the edges with a straight spatula, invert the pan(s) to remove the cake, and peel off the parchment.

Yo’s Italian Meringue Buttercream

YO’S RECIPE BOX

I make this buttercream by the boatload. One of the things I love about Italian meringue buttercream is that it goes on so smoothly, providing the perfect surface for fondant. And for flavor, you just can’t beat this buttercream: it’s light yet creamy and not too sweet, as American buttercream or other types of frosting can be, because it doesn’t rely on icing sugar.

If you’re working with frozen buttercream, let it thaw overnight in the fridge and then sit at room temperature for 2 to 4 hours. If you can’t wait that long, you can place your fresh-from-the-fridge buttercream in the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with a whisk attachment, wrap a hot towel around the bowl, and whip at high speed until it reaches room temperature.

Makes about 6 cups

Ingredients

1¾ cups sugar

8 large egg whites, at room temperature

2 cups (4 sticks) unsalted butter, cut into tablespoon-size pieces, at room temperature

1 teaspoon pure vanilla extract

1In a small saucepan, combine the sugar and ½ cup water. Place over medium heat and bring to a boil. Clip a candy thermometer to the side of the pan.

2While the sugar syrup is heating, put the egg whites in the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the whisk attachment.

3When the syrup reaches 230°F on the candy thermometer, begin to whip the egg whites on medium-high speed. Whip until the egg whites are stiff.

4When the syrup reaches 240°F, immediately remove the pan from the heat and, with the mixer running, pour the syrup into the egg whites in a very thin stream. Pour the syrup between the side of the bowl and the whisk attachment.

5Whip the meringue at high speed until thick and glossy and the bowl is no longer warm on the outside, about 8 to 12 minutes.

6With the mixer running, add the butter, a piece at a time, whipping until each piece is fully incorporated before adding the next. Scrape down the sides of the bowl with a spatula occasionally.

7After all the butter has been added, continue to whip the buttercream until it’s thick and smooth, 3 to 5 minutes. Beat in the vanilla.

8Use immediately or transfer to an airtight container and store in the refrigerator for up to 1 week or the freezer for up to 2 months. Before using refrigerated or frozen buttercream, let it warm up to room temperature and stir to smooth it out.

Yo’s Chocolate Swiss Meringue Buttercream

YO’S RECIPE BOX

I personally love this buttercream because it’s as light and smooth as Italian meringue buttercream but delightfully chocolaty. It isn’t too rich, so it pairs perfectly with any cake, satisfying chocolate cravings without overpowering other flavors. If you’ve got a young chocoholic in your house, this is the buttercream to use on all your cakes!

This buttercream needs a bit of time to set up—there’s a lot of chocolate. Make it at least a day ahead.

Makes about 6 cups

Ingredients

18 ounces good-quality dark chocolate

1 cup sugar

¼ teaspoon table salt

⅛ teaspoon cream of tartar

4 large egg whites

2 cups (4 sticks) unsalted butter, cut into tablespoon-size pieces, at room temperature

1Chop the chocolate as finely as you can. Put it in a heatproof bowl and set the bowl over a pan of lightly simmering water (do not let the bowl touch the water).

2Melt the chocolate, stirring until smooth, then remove the bowl from the saucepan and set aside to cool while you prepare the buttercream. Leave the pan of water on the stove, as you will need it shortly.

3In the bowl of a stand mixer, whisk together the sugar, salt, and cream of tartar. Whisk in the egg whites until thoroughly combined.

4Place the bowl with the egg whites over the pan of simmering water (again, do not let the bowl touch the water). Heat the mixture, whisking frequently, until it’s warm but not hot to the touch and the sugar is mostly dissolved (you should feel just a little grittiness when you rub a bit of the mixture between your fingertips), about 2 to 5 minutes.

5Transfer the bowl to the stand mixer and fit the mixer with the whisk attachment. Whip at high speed until thick and glossy and the bowl is no longer warm on the outside, about 5 minutes.

6With the mixer running, add the butter, a piece at a time, whipping until each piece is fully incorporated before adding the next. Scrape down the sides of the bowl with a spatul
ese ratings are not foolproof, because chiles can vary in degrees of hotness due to the local conditions where they were grown. To pretest the heat of a chile before you add it to a recipe, cut off a very small piece and taste it raw. To be safe, I recommend that you have a glass of cold milk or a bowl of yogurt on hand because dairy is really the only way to offset the burn of a hot chile.

CAPSAICIN: THE HEAT SOURCE OF CHILE PEPPERS

Capsaicin is produced in chiles by glands at the junction of the rib and the pod wall. It spreads unevenly throughout the inside of the pod and is concentrated mostly in the ribs. The seeds are not sources of heat as commonly believed. However, because of their proximity to the rib, they occasionally absorb capsaicin through the growing process.

Capsaicin is an incredibly powerful and stable compound seemingly unaffected by drying or temperature. It will retain its original potency no matter how long the chile is dried, cooked, or stored in the freezer.

BLANCHING

This technique is normally used to cook vegetables, green vegetables in particular because it helps them to retain their vibrant color; it can also be used to prepare shellfish for a ceviche. Prepare a large bowl of ice water. Bring salted water to a boil, add the vegetables or shellfish, and cook, either until tender or for as long as directed in the recipe. Drain the vegetables and plunge into the ice water to stop the cooking. Drain again.

COLD-SMOKING

Cold-smoking is a technique that imparts a smoky flavor to meat, fish, or vegetables. Since no cooking takes place, the interior texture of the food generally isn’t affected and further preparation is required, such as roasting, grilling, curing, or sautéing. I love using smoked tomatoes in salsas and smoked fish or shrimp for tacos.

Prepare a small charcoal or wood fire in a domed grill or on a stove-top cold-smoker. Lay chips of soaked aromatic wood, such as hickory, apple, or mesquite, over the ashes—you just want to get the smoke going, not a very hot fire. (Remember that food isn’t cooked by this method, but is infused with a smoky flavor.)

Arrange the food on the grill rack over the chips, open the top vent slightly, and cover the grill so that the smoke stays inside. Smoke for the amount of time indicated below:

Meat—15 minutes

Fish fillets and peeled shrimp—10 minutes

Peppers and chiles (rub with oil first)—20 minutes

Tomatoes (rub with oil first)—10 minutes

ROASTING PEPPERS AND CHILES

Preheat the oven to 375 degrees F. Brush the peppers with olive oil and season with salt and pepper, place in the oven on a rimmed baking sheet, and rotate until charred on all sides, 15 to 17 minutes. Remove from the oven and place the roasted peppers in a bowl, cover with plastic wrap, and let sit for 15 minutes to allow the skin to loosen. Then peel, halve, and seed. Treat chiles exactly the same way as the peppers. Roasted peppers and chiles can be covered and stored for up to 5 days in the refrigerator.

TOASTING DRIED CHILES

Toasting chiles intensifies their flavor. Heat a dry sauté pan over high heat until almost smoking. Add the chiles to the pan and toast for 20 to 30 seconds on each side. Remove and let cool slightly, then remove the stems and the seeds. Toasted dried chiles can be kept stored in a cool, dark place in a container with a tight-fitting lid for up to 6 months.

MAKING CHILE PUREE

Place dried chiles in a bowl, pour boiling water on top, and let soak for about 30 minutes, or until soft. Remove the chiles from the water and remove the stems and seeds, reserving the water. To puree them, place the chiles in a food processor with a little of the soaking liquid and process until smooth. To make chipotle chile puree, empty the contents of a can of chipotles in adobo sauce into a food processor and process until smooth. Chile puree can be covered and stored for up to 5 days in the refrigerator. Chipotle puree will last up to a month because of the vinegar in the adobo sauce.

PAN-ROASTING

You will see this term throughout the book. We use pan-roasting a lot at Mesa Grill and it is a great technique for thicker cuts of meat and fish. This method involves starting the food out in a hot sauté pan on top of the stove to get a good, flavorful crust and finishing it in a very hot oven to cook it evenly. If cooked entirely on the stove, thicker cuts will burn on the outside before cooking through on the inside. By finishing this kind of cut in the oven instead, where the heat is even and not just coming from underneath, the result is a perfectly cooked piece of meat or fish.

ROASTING CORN

Preheat the oven to 375 degrees F. Pull the husks back from each ear of corn, but do not pull them off entirely. Remove the silks and then replace the husks. Soak the ears in co

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