- Full Title: Avocaderia: Avocado Recipes for a Healthier, Happier Life
- Autor: Alberto Gramigni
- Print Length: 224 pages
- Publisher: Houghton Mifflin Harcourt
- Publication Date: December 4, 2018
- Language: English
- ISBN-10: 1328497933
- ISBN-13: 978-1328497932
- Download File Format | Size: epub | 46,52 Mb
THE ULTIMATE ENERGY BAR
CAMILLA V. SAULSBURY
LAKE ISLE PRESS, INC., NEW YORK
Recipes copyright © 2013 by Camilla V. Saulsbury
Photography copyright © 2013 by Tina Rupp
All rights reserved. No part of this book may be reproduced, stored in a retrieval system, or transmitted, in any form, or by any means, electronic or mechanical, including photocopying and recording, without prior written consent from the publisher.
With reference to the chapter “Super-Natural Knock-Offs,” use of third party trademarks does not imply or constitute sponsorship, affiliation, or endorsement by the owners of any third party trademarks. All trademarks are the properties of their respective owners.
Lake Isle Press, Inc.
2095 Broadway, Suite 301
New York, NY 10023
E-mail: [email protected]
Distributed to the trade by:
National Book Network, Inc.
4501 Forbes Boulevard, Suite 200
Lanham, MD 20706
Library of Congress Control Number: 2013941821
Book and cover design: Ellen Swandiak
Editor: Jennifer Sit
This book is available at special sales discounts for bulk purchases as premiums or special editions, including customized covers. For more information, contact the publisher at (212) 273-0796 or by e-mail: [email protected]
Printed in the United States of America
10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1
FOR CAROL KERSH SIMONS
A teacher who inspired me for a lifetime and taught me how to embrace creativity at every opportunity.
My sincerest thanks and appreciation, and a batch of homemade energy bars anytime and anywhere, goes out to the following people.
To my savvy, talented, cheer-leading agent, Clare Pelino. If you hadn’t taken the time to chat, out of the blue, on a cold, rainy afternoon in New York, this book would not have happened. Thank you for introducing me to Lake Isle Press; it is a perfect fit for this project, in every way. You are a superstar.
To Hiroko Kiiffner and Jennifer Sit: I knew I was in excellent hands from the moment we began our first conference call. I cannot say enough about your kindness, encouragement, creativity, generosity, and hard work in making this book a reality. I love that you included me on every detail of the book’s process and encouraged me to push the possibilities for this book. Plus, you are both such delightful, considerate people. I consider myself very lucky indeed to be working with two such talented women!
Heaps of thanks and praise are also due to Ellen Swandiak, the brains behind the design of this book. I was a nervous wreck upon arriving at the first day of the food photoshoot; you swept it all away the moment I walked through the door and you instructed me to make myself at home (followed by an offer of a freshly brewed cup of coffee, which was exactly what I needed).
To Tina Rupp, photographer extraordinaire: I was a huge fan of your work before we met, and yet you still managed to surpass my expectations. What a thrill, too, to find out that the woman behind the photographs is every bit as phenomenal. I had so much fun working with you and could not be happier with the final images.
To Kevin and Nick, for all of your combined love and support, as well as for eating so many of my homemade energy bars over the years (even some of my less successful experiments/mistakes). You give me so much energy and inspiration—I love you with all my heart. Thank you, too, for (1) disappearing to the park for several hours when I needed some extra time to meet deadlines; and (2) understanding when I was too pooped from testing power bar recipes all day to make dinner.
To my parents, Dan and Charlotte, for supporting every one of my new ventures—always—with unwavering support and love.
Finally, to all of my fitness class participants, fitness buddies, and the readers of my blog, Power Hungry: your feedback of, and enthusiasm for DIY energy bars is what prompted me to keep creating new recipes and eventually sparked the idea for this project. This book is for all of you.
Here’s to being power hungry!
TABLE OF CONTENTS
The Power Hungry Pantry
Raw and Almost Raw Bars
This book has been more than a decade in the making. It all began in my twenties, the better part of which I spent eating out of my backpack.
My twenties meant graduate school, and that translated to working a ridiculous number of jobs, including, but not limited to, fitness instructor, sociology instructor, food columnist, and personal trainer. Oh, and then there was the business of being a graduate
sugar free ice cream, ice cream ice cream, simple pancakes, wine shipping, swedish pancakes,
ounger generation who has studied in America and lived in the UK, I like to take a different approach: after all, with home cooking, you can’t spend four years learning to wash rice. Thankfully, there’s a difference between going out and respecting tradition, and making something lovely to eat at home.
With nigiri, you have to slice the fish very quickly, touching it only once – in fact, my old mentor doesn’t use his right hand at all to touch the fish – and you would never make nigiri at home, because it wouldn’t taste right. But you can make temari, which is very similar in style, easy to make, and looks stunning. If it’s nigiri you are looking for, then save your appetite for the many high-end restaurants and enjoy watching the beautiful work of a master sushi chef!
So the ingredients, the setting and the atmosphere may change, but the general approach in all cases is a real care for the food’s preparation and the quality of ingredients. Sushi always feels like a treat, a fine-dining experience, but it can be prepared easily at home. Sushi is a cuisine in itself, defined in all its forms by the pride taken in making something really special and delicious. Whatever the setting, sushi is my favourite food and I always delight in teaching people how to make it.
Sushi is not something to be afraid of. You need to learn a few methods to prepare beautiful sushi at home, but don’t worry – this is not about spending ten years training in a Kyoto kitchen or using expensive equipment; in fact, I’ll be showing you how to use a hairdryer to perfect your rice. And nowadays you can buy a huge range of Japanese products very easily, without breaking the bank.
The most important thing is keeping an open mind: whether you want to use caviar or cucumber, as long as you enjoy what you make, then that is fine. A simple pasta dish is truly great if you use fresh, good-quality pasta cooked properly; similarly, if you make good rice, then you can make wonderful sushi. Japanese food is very simple to make, it is one of the healthiest ways to eat and it can be easily incorporated into your daily life. Achieving the equivalent of al dente perfection can be a precise process, so follow the methods carefully and enjoy the challenge. Get the basics right, be discerning with your ingredients and experiment!
Japanese food is so delicious that it is easy to forget that it is healthy too, and I love teaching people how to prepare it. My approach is based on three principles:
Chisan, chisho – ‘produce locally, eat locally’
As far as possible use ingredients that can be bought easily and locally: ready-cooked crab, smoked salmon, mackerel, asparagus, cucumber, avocado, spinach and green beans, for example. Of course, we don’t live in a bubble, and Japanese food would be impossible to create without some key ingredients from further afield. Luckily, sushi rice, nori, wasabi and other formerly hard-to-find products are all now widely available in supermarkets and online, which makes it much easier, but my sushi recipes are designed to be accessible and enjoyed by anyone keen to learn, in any location.
Nowadays you can eat everything, everywhere, at any time. However, I recommend trying to use the ingredients available to you, as inventiveness improves the experience. It was only when my family visited Tokyo that we would eat Edomae, or Tokyo-style sushi, for example. I love exploring different parts of England at the weekend and using Norfolk smoked fish or Cornish crab to create new recipe combinations, and I grow some of the more difficult-to-find ingredients, like the herb shiso, in my garden.
Otaku – ‘[be a] geek!’
Talk to your grocer and your fishmonger. Care about the ingredients and the process. Be fussy about what you use in your dishes and where it comes from. There are no short cuts or tricks if you don’t have good fresh fish or vegetables. When I first took my friends to Japan we caught the bus to Yamanashi, a journey of two hours or so. The whole way there, three elderly but very lively ladies were having a passionate chat. Keen to know the subject, my friend was surprised to discover that they had been talking about food – in this case pickles – for over two hours: the best way to pickle daikon, its health benefits, its taste, what time of year to do it, the beautiful colours you could achieve depending on which vinegars were used, and so on.
Tejun and tegiwa – ‘preparation and process’
Get the basics right. As with the example of al dente pasta, Japanese food is about getting some basic methods spot-on. To make perfect sushi rice, for example, it is critical to cool it down properly (not only to give it the right texture, but also for safety), and learning how to do this is integral to the process. It is really easy to do and makes all the difference. Skip it and it will not be right!
nearest pizza shop, milk and cookies, thai iced tea, vegan chicken, eclectic restaurant,
t IV : From the Main Course to the Finish Line
Chapter 13: Chicken
Down-Home Barbecued Chicken
Chinese-Spiced Baked Chicken
Grilled Lime-Cumin Chicken Cutlets
Gingered Roast Chicken
Mediterranean-Spiced Chicken with Olives
Southeast Asian Chicken Saté
Thai Chicken Curry
Indian Chicken Curry
Tandoori Chicken Cutlets
Chapter 14: Meat
Steak au Poivre
Southwestern Flank Steak
Beef and Bean Chili
Indonesian Beef Saté
Cape Malay Bobotie
Beef or Pork Stew with Juniper and Chile Powder
Beef or Pork Adobo
Spicy Roast Pork
Fragrantly Spiced Maple Spareribs
Hot and Spicy Roasted Ribs
Spice Islands Lamb Stew
Curried Lamb Kebabs
Indian Rogan Josh
Hungarian Veal Goulash with Mushrooms
Chapter 15: Seafood
Tuna or Salmon Teriyaki
Southeast Asian Fried Flounder or Sole
Roasted Moroccan Monkfish
Spicy Crab Cakes with Cilantro Sauce
Shrimp in Chile Adobo Sauce
Shrimp in West African Peanut Sauce
Chapter 16: Vegetables and Legumes
Spiced Roasted Vegetables
Braised Cumin-Coriander Carrots
Spicy Green Beans
Garlicky Broccoli Stir-Fry
Gingered Zucchini or Summer Squash
Mashed Spiced Butternut
Braised Red Cabbage with Caraway, Apples and Bacon
Greens with Mustard Seeds, Onions, and Tomatoes
Fragrantly Spiced Spinach
Spiced Lemony Lentils
Vegetarian Bean Chili
Chapter 17: Pasta, Potatoes, and Grains
Using Your Noodles
Cold Spiced Noodles with Sesame Oil and Vegetables
Indonesian Peanut Noodles with Vegetables
Spiced Couscous with Currants
Mashed Vanilla-Scented Sweet Potatoes
Roasted Potatoes with Garlic and Cumin
Curried Barley Pilaf
Spiced Rice with Almonds
Chapter 18: Quick Breads and Sweets
Caraway, Cheese, and Bacon Beer Bread
Cumin-Chile Corn Muffins
Cinnamon Coffee Cake
Chocolate Cinnamon Sauce
Spiced Chocolate Loaf
Spiced Apple Cake
Nut Biscotti with Anise
Spiced Poached Fruit
Chapter 19: Beverages
Drink It Up
Mulled Red Wine
Hot Spiced Apple Cider
Mexican Hot Chocolate
New Orleans Café Brulot
Spiced Iced Tea
Bloody Mary Mix
Part V : The Part of Tens
Chapter 20: Ten Spicy Presentations
Ten Spicy Garnishes
Chapter 21: Ten Spicy Sources
Chile Today-Hot Tamale
Dean and Deluca
The Great American Spice Company
McCormick & Company Inc.
Mo Hotta-Mo Betta
Appendix A: Metric Conversion Guide
Appendix B: Glossary of Cooking Terms
Appendix C: Spice Quantity Guide
Fresh Spices and Aromatics
: Color Insert
T hough commonplace for centuries in the East, spices were the prized culinary treasures of royalty and the wealthy merchant class in the Western world until the nineteenth century. Fortunately for us, they are now widely available at a relatively low cost. Their scent today graces most kitchens worldwide. Spices give food depth, character, aroma, and above all, taste. Used in both savory and sweet dishes, spices offer you wide range of flavors to choose from and experiment with.
In this book, you discover that cooking with spices is easy and fun. Cooking with Spices For Dummies is divided into five parts that guide you through the world of spices so that you know how to make the most of the spices that are available to you. From historical tidbits to down-to-earth tips, you find out how to buy, prepare, combine, and cook with spices. You also discover some of the world’s most-loved dishes and some exciting new recipes.
How to Use This Book
The world of spices is at your fingertips; you can discover it in this book. Embark on a culinary tour and discover the commodity that incited nations into wars.
This book takes a practical and modern approach to cooking so that you can create healthy and delicious meals without having special skills or spending a great deal of time in the kitchen. The featured recipes range from simple spice mixtures to sauces, so
chicken casserole recipes, japanese restaurant, chinese pancakes, fried rice, rachel ray,
plit the cake horizontally into three and fill and cover with the cream, using a small palette knife to smooth it evenly over the top and sides. Decorate the top with the orange zest. Store in the refrigerator.
For a video masterclass on icing a cake, go to www.mykitchentable.co.uk/videos/icing
Make sure you use deep sandwich tins for this recipe, as the shallower tins tend to overflow. They are available from good cookshops or by mail order.
Cake tins needed: 2 loose-based 20cm (8in) sandwich tins, 4cm (1½in) deep
50g (2oz) cocoa powder
6 tbsp boiling water
3 large eggs
60ml (2fl oz) milk
175g (6oz) self-raising flour
1 rounded tsp baking powder
100g (4oz) butter, softened
275g (10oz) caster sugar
for the filling and topping
300ml (½ pint) pouring double cream
1 level tsp instant coffee, dissolved in 2 tsp hot water
a little cocoa powder or drinking chocolate, for dusting
Step one Preheat the oven to 180°C/Fan 160°C/gas 4. Lightly grease both the tins and line the bases with non-stick baking parchment.
Step two Put the cocoa powder into a large mixing bowl, add the boiling water and mix well until it has a paste-like consistency.
Step three Add all the remaining ingredients to the bowl and whisk with a hand-held electric mixer until just combined. The mixture will be a thickish batter (be careful not to overwhisk).
Step four Divide the cake mixture between the prepared tins and gently level the surface. Bake for 25–30 minutes, until the cakes are well risen and beginning to shrink away from the side of the tin. Turn the cakes out onto a wire rack and leave to cool completely.
Step five To finish the cake, whip the double cream until it just holds its shape and then stir in the dissolved coffee. Use half the cream to fill the cake and spread the remainder over the top. Gently smooth the surface with a palette knife and dust with sifted cocoa or drinking chocolate. This cake is best eaten fresh; store in the fridge if necessary.
For Mary Berry’s guide to baking equipment, go to www.mykitchentable.co.uk/authors/MaryBerry/equipment
Frosted Walnut Layer Cake
This is a truly old-fashioned cake iced with a simple ‘American frosting’ of sweet whipped egg white.
Cake tins needed: 3 x 20cm (8in) sandwich tins
225g (8oz) butter, softened
225g (8oz) caster sugar
4 large eggs
225g (8oz) self-raising flour
2 level tsp baking powder
100g (4oz) walnuts, finely chopped
for the frosting
2 large egg whites
350g (12oz) caster sugar
4 tbsp water
¼ level tsp cream of tartar
Step one Preheat the oven to 160°C/Fan 140°C/gas 3. Grease the tins then line the base of each tin with non-stick baking parchment.
Step two Measure all the ingredients for the cake into a large bowl and beat until thoroughly blended. Divide the mixture equally between the tins and level the surfaces.
Step three Bake for 25–30 minutes until the cakes are golden and springy to the touch. Leave to cool in the tin for a few minutes then turn out, peel off the parchment and finish cooling on a wire rack.
Step four To make the frosting, measure all the ingredients into a bowl over a pan of hot water and whisk for 10–12 minutes until thick. Sandwich the cake layers together with a little of the frosting, then use the remainder to cover the top and sides of the cake, swirling the icing to form softened peaks. Work quickly as the icing sets rapidly. Leave to set in a cool place, but not in the fridge.
Step five Decorate with the walnut halves.
Don’t be tempted to use more baking powder than specified, or the cake will rise up and then sink back again. In this all-in-one method, self-raising flour and baking powder are used together to give the cake the necessary lift. The quickness of the method means that less air is whisked into the mixture than if the cake is made the traditional way.
Very Best Chocolate Fudge Cake
This will become your favourite chocolate cake recipe – it is the best! It is speedy to make and the easy filling doubles as an icing. The cake is moist and has a ‘grown-up’ chocolate flavour.
Cake tins needed: 2 deep 20cm (8in) sandwich tins
50g (2oz) sifted cocoa powder
6 tbsp boiling water
3 large eggs
50ml (2fl oz) milk
175g (6oz) self-raising flour
1 rounded tsp baking powder
100g (4oz) butter, softened
275g (10oz) caster sugar
for the icing and filling
3 tbsp apricot jam
150g (5oz) plain chocolate (39 per cent cocoa solids)
150ml (¼ pint) pouring double cream
Step one Preheat the oven to 180°C/Fan 160°C/gas 4. Grease the tins, then line the base of each tin with non-stick baking parchment.
Step two Blend the cocoa and boiling water in a large bowl then add the remaining cake ingredients and beat until the mixture has become a smooth, thickish b
vegetarian times, whole food plant based recipes, smoothie diet, chana bhatura, delicacy food,
e, lemon zest, 2 teaspoons of the black pepper, and the crushed red pepper. Whisk in the 1 cup of olive oil, and pour the marinade into the bag. Seal the bag and refrigerate for at least 2 hours and up to overnight.
2. Heat the remaining 1 tablespoon olive oil in a large sauté pan over medium-high heat. Add the peppers, red onion, ½ teaspoon of the salt, and the remaining tablespoon of garlic, and reduce the heat to medium-low. Cook the peppers, stirring as needed, until soft, about 20 minutes. Add the balsamic vinegar and sugar to the pan, and cook for 10 minutes more, or until the vinegar is reduced to a syrup and the peppers are well coated. Remove the pan from the heat, stir in the remaining ¼ cup parsley, and set aside to cool.
3. Remove the flank steak from the marinade and pat it dry. Discard the marinade. Season the steak all over with the remaining ½ teaspoon salt and ½ teaspoon black pepper. Heat a grill pan over high heat, and when it is hot, add the steak. Grill the steak for 4 to 5 minutes per side for medium-rare. Remove it from the pan and allow it to rest for at least 5 minutes; then slice it thinly across the grain.
4. Place the arugula in a bowl and lightly dress it with extra-virgin olive oil, salt, and pepper.
5. To assemble: Lay 1 slice of cheese on each of 4 slices of the toast (if desired, warm them in the oven until melted). Spread mayonnaise on the remaining 4 slices of toast. Divide the steak among the cheese-topped toasts, and season lightly with salt and pepper. Mound the peppers over the steak, and then add the arugula. Top the sandwiches with the remaining toast, cut them in half, and serve immediately.
HORSERADISH-CRUSTED TENDERLOIN WITH CREOLE MUSTARD MAYO
This is a really easy steak sandwich—the tenderloin cooks quickly, and you know it’s tender. I guess that’s why I like it so much. Some of the crust may fall off when you slice into it, but don’t despair—scoop it up and sprinkle it over the meat to get that nice horseradish flavor.
1½ pounds center-cut beef tenderloin, trimmed
¼ cup garlic cloves
¼ cup finely chopped shallot
2 tablespoons minced canned anchovies, or 6 whole fillets
1½ teaspoons kosher salt, plus more for seasoning
1 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper, plus more for seasoning
2 tablespoons fresh thyme leaves
¼ cup extra-virgin olive oil
4 ounces fresh horseradish, finely grated (about ½ cup; see Note)
Four 4-inch sections ciabatta bread (about 1½ loaves), halved lengthwise
About ¾ cup Creole Mustard Mayo
½ cup -inch-thick red onion rounds
2 cups fresh arugula, rinsed and spun dry
2 cups fresh spinach, rinsed and spun dry
1 tablespoon sherry vinegar
1. Allow the tenderloin to sit at room temperature for at least 30 minutes and up to 1 hour.
2. Position an oven rack in the center and preheat the oven to 400°F.
3. Place the garlic, shallot, anchovies, ½ teaspoon of the salt, ½ teaspoon of the pepper, and the thyme in a food processor and pulse to blend. With the motor running, add the oil in a steady stream. Transfer the paste to a small mixing bowl. Stir in the horseradish.
4. Season the tenderloin on all sides with the remaining 1 teaspoon salt and ½ teaspoon black pepper, and evenly coat it with the horseradish mixture. Transfer the tenderloin to a small roasting pan and roast until the thickest part registers 130°F (for medium-rare) on an instant-read thermometer, 35 to 40 minutes. Remove it from the oven, tent it with foil, and set it aside to rest for about 20 minutes. Then slice the tenderloin crosswise into ¼-inch-thick slices.
5. Place the bread, cut side up, on a baking sheet. Pinch and remove some of the bread filling, leaving about ½ inch of thickness. Place the baking sheet in the oven and toast until slightly crisp, about 5 minutes. Transfer the toast to a work surface. Spread about 1½ tablespoons of the Creole Mustard Mayonnaise over each piece. Layer 4 to 6 slices of tenderloin on each bottom half of the toast. Divide the onion slices among the sandwiches.
6. Place the arugula and spinach in a mixing bowl. Drizzle the sherry vinegar over the top, and season with a few generous pinches of salt and pepper. Toss to coat well. Divide the greens among the sandwiches, and complete with the top halves. Serve immediately.
Note: Fresh horseradish can be found at Whole Foods and in many supermarkets.
EMERIL’S MONTE CRISTO
16 small sandwiches, 4 to 6 servings
Talk about outrageous! This is a battered and deep-fried ham, turkey, and cheese sandwich. Don’t be apprehensive about the confectioners’ sugar and the preserves. Give this classic combo a try; it’ll truly knock your socks off. And let me tell you, I don’t even know what it would do to your guests over brunch!
8 slices White Sandwich Bread
Whole-grain or Dijon-style mustard
Mayonnaise, homemade, or store-bought
12 ounces sliced Swiss cheese
tanti, e a volte anche di più. E se cercando di capire molte questioni relative al cibo e alla salute, io mi affido inevitabilmente alla scienza (compresa quella riduzionista), uno dei miei obiettivi è dimostrare i limiti di un approccio strettamente scientifico a un soggetto così ricco e complesso. Forse un giorno gli scienziati «risolveranno» il problema della dieta racchiudendo in una pillola il pasto perfetto; ma al momento e per il prossimo futuro, sarebbe un errore lasciare che siano loro a decidere per noi. Perché non ne sanno abbastanza.
Voi potreste giustamente chiedervi chi sia io per darvi dei consigli. Con quale autorità metto in discussione le indicazioni della scienza e dell’industria alimentare? Semplicemente, con quella della tradizione e del buon senso. Gran parte di ciò che dobbiamo sapere sul cibo lo sappiamo già, o lo sapevamo finché non abbiamo permesso agli esperti della nutrizione e alla pubblicità di minare la nostra fiducia nelle indicazioni dei nostri sensi e nella saggezza delle nostre mamme e delle nostre nonne.
Non che avessimo molta scelta. Negli anni Sessanta era diventato praticamente impossibile difendere il modo di mangiare tradizionale dall’invasione di cibi industriali. Pensare di gustare prodotti coltivati senza fertilizzanti chimici o carne di animali allevati all’aperto senza l’impiego di farmaci era pura utopia. I supermercati erano diventati gli unici luoghi ove fare la spesa, ma il cibo vero spariva dagli scaffali per essere sostituito dalla moderna cornucopia di prodotti simili al cibo, uno più artificiale dell’altro. E poiché tante di quelle novità ingannavano i nostri sensi con dolcificanti e aromi artificiali, non potevamo più affidarci al gusto o all’olfatto per sapere cosa stavamo mangiando.
La maggior parte dei miei suggerimenti non sono che strategie per sfuggire alla dieta occidentale. Ma prima del diffondersi dei mercatini, della nascita del movimento per il biologico e della riscoperta dell’agricoltura locale, l’idea di uscire dal circuito alimentare convenzionale poteva sembrare irrealistica. Oggi non più. Riguardo al cibo stiamo entrando in un’èra postindustriale; per la prima volta nella nostra generazione, possiamo lasciarci alle spalle la dieta occidentale senza rinunciare alla civiltà. E più saranno coloro che con la forchetta voteranno per un diverso tipo di cibo e un diverso modo di alimentarsi, più questi prodotti saranno disponibili e abbordabili. Questo libro vuol essere, fra le altre cose, un manifesto del mangiar bene, un invito a unirsi al movimento che sta rinnovando il nostro sistema alimentare in nome della salute – intesa nel senso più ampio della parola.
Dubito che la terza parte di questo libro si sarebbe potuta scrivere quarant’anni fa, se non altro perché non ci sarebbe stato modo di mangiare alla maniera che io suggerisco senza tornare alla terra e coltivarla noi stessi. Sarebbe stato il manifesto di un eccentrico. Nel menù nazionale esisteva solo un genere di cibo, ed era quello che rifilavano, in quel momento, l’industria e il nutrizionismo. Quell’epoca è finita. Oggi i consumatori possono compiere scelte reali, e queste producono conseguenze reali, per la nostra salute, la salute della terra e quella della nostra cultura alimentare – le quali tutte, come vedremo, sono inestricabilmente connesse. Il fatto che qualcuno senta di dover scrivere un libro per consigliare di «mangiare cibo vero» potrebbe essere preso come una prova della nostra alienazione e confusione. Ma potremmo scegliere di vederlo in una luce più positiva e considerarci fortunati di avere ancora la possibilità di mangiare veri alimenti.
L’ÈRA DEL NUTRIZIONISMO
DAGLI ALIMENTI AI NUTRIENTI
Se vi è capitato di andare nei supermercati negli anni Ottanta, avrete notato un fenomeno singolare: il cibo spariva a poco a poco dagli scaffali. Non nel senso letterale della parola; non sto parlando di penurie di approvvigionamenti in stile sovietico. No, scaffali e congelatori erano ancora stipati di pacchi, scatole e sacchi di commestibili vari, che anzi aumentavano di anno in anno, ma una gran parte dei prodotti tradizionali venivano sostituiti sistematicamente da «nutrienti», che non sono la stessa cosa. Laddove prima sulle confezioni multicolori che affollavano le corsie si leggevano nomi di prodotti familiari – come le uova, i cereali per la colazione o le patatine – ora comparivano a caratteri cubitali nuovi termini dal suono scientifico come «colesterolo», «fibre» e «grassi saturi». Più importante del cibo in sé era la presenza o l’assenza di queste sostanze invisibili. Il messaggio implicito era che i normali alimenti, al confronto, erano un concetto grossolano, ormai superato, privo di valore scientifico: chi poteva dire che cosa contenevano in realtà? I nutrienti invece – quei composti chimici e quei minerali che gli scienziati hanno identificato come importanti per la no