One-Dish Vegan Revised and Expanded Edition by Robin Robertson – ISBN: 1558329420 [list of books]

  • Full Title: One-Dish Vegan Revised and Expanded Edition: 175 Soul-Satisfying Recipes for Easy and Delicious One-Pan and One-Plate Dinners
  • Autor: Robin Robertson
  • Print Length: 240 pages
  • Publisher: Harvard Common Press; Revised, Expanded edition
  • Publication Date: October 9, 2018
  • Language: English
  • ISBN-10: 1558329420
  • ISBN-13: 978-1558329423
  • Download File Format | Size: epub | 8,30 Mb
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Get your nutrition the right way with One-Dish Vegan Revised and Expanded Edition. This cookbook features 175 nutritionally sound vegan recipes that are fast and easy—all, brimming with flavor.

The first edition of One-Dish Vegan was a nutritionally well-rounded vegan cookbook that captivated home chefs. In the Revised and Expanded Edition, you will find all of this and more in the 175 fast and convenient one-dish meals, all beautifully photographed, and ready to get you cooking.

The bold and vibrant recipes—including 25 new to this edition—range from the most popular categories of one-dish dining like stews, chilis, and casseroles, to a host of stove top sautes and stir-fries. You will also enjoy substantial salads, as well as pastas and other noodle-based dishes. Convenience and easy cleanup are key in One-Dish Vegan; not only can each meal be served and enjoyed in a single dish, but most can also be prepared in a single container. Now you can spend more time eating and less time cleaning.

The recipes are at once homey and adventurous, comforting and surprising. Above all, they demonstrate that it really is possible to get a complete vegan meal into one dish, full of good-for-you nutrients and bright, satisfying flavors.


 

 

Editorial Reviews

About the Author

Robin Robertson is a veteran restaurant chef and cooking teacher. She pens a regular column for VegNews Magazine and has written for Vegetarian Times, Health Naturally, Restaurant Business, National Culinary Review, American Culinary Federation Magazine, and Better Nutrition. She has authored numerous cookbooks, including the best-selling titles Vegan Planet, Vegan on the Cheap, and Quick-Fix Vegan. Robertson currently writes, promotes her books, and teaches classes on her innovative vegan cuisine from her home in the Shenandoah Valley of Virginia, in the town of Woodstock.

 

Keywords

ents

To my family, you are my ‘happy place’. There is so much greatness evident in you guys – I’d better feed you well! Always.

To my home-base team, Sumaya Jacobs, Filander de Bruin (Fiela) and Evanjholene Ross (Wennie) – you were such a big part of the miracle of this book. Thanks for being my hands when mine were simply not enough. Sumaya, you are a truly talented chef in the making.

To each and every ‘Low Carbie’ and every Facebook page friend – I thought of you during the late-night recipe testing sessions. Your kind comments and sincere feedback inspired me to keep finding better and tastier ways to ‘decarb’ those all-time favourites we used to love.

To my production team – you guys are all masters of your trades. (I’ll be the judge!) It was simply a marvellous privilege to work with the same team on this book.

A special thanks to The Garden Shed guesthouse and Au’ de Hex Boutique Hotel in Wellington for allowing us to shoot and stay at your immaculate venues.

Last, but definitely not least, I have been on the receiving end of abundant and truly AMAZING GRACE

throughout this project. My heart fully and undeniably resonates with Psalm 8!

Published by Struik Lifestyle

All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be

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copying, recording or otherwise, without the prior written

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PO Box 1144, Cape Town, 8000 South Africa

Publisher: Linda de Villiers

Visit www.penguinrandomhouse.co.za for updates, news,

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events and special offers.

Editor and indexer: Joy Clack

Designer: Beverley Dodd

First published in 2017

Proofreader: Glynne Newlands

Photographer: Sean Calitz

Copyright © in text 2017: Inè Reynierse

Food stylist: Brita du Plessis

Copyright © in photographs 2017: Penguin Random House

Food stylist’s assistant: Elizabeth Ingram

South Africa (Pty) Ltd

Food preparation: Elizabeth Ingram and Sumaya Jacobs

Copyright © in published edition 2017: Penguin Random

House South Africa (Pty) Ltd

Reproduction by Hirt & Carter Cape (Pty) Ltd

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ISBN: 978 1 43230 688 5

Contents

Forewords 4

From the author 4

A matter of principles 6

Dough you still love me? 12

Around the world in 18 meals 32

Under 30-minute meals 60

Platters and snacks 80

Picnic foods 96

Sides, salads and condiments 116

For the kids 138

The sweet side 156

Super food beverages and sport snacks 192

Conversion chart 204

Index 204

Forewords

I spend a lot of my time sorting out people’s Leading medical research organisations recognise hormones. No, I am not an endocrinologist. I am a

that the main non-infectious diseases plaguing

sexologist (of all things!) and a medical doctor.

modern societies are heart disease, diabetes

Many of my patients suffer from hormonal

and stroke. They generally agree that all of these

imbalances. Their individual hormones might fall diseases are linked to a disorder of carbohydrate in ‘normal’ reference ranges, but the ratios are out,

metabolism.

wreaking havoc with their sex lives, weight, mood,

The regrettable prevalence of these diseases

fertility and general wellbeing. Many have been told

in modern societies is thought to be linked largely

that ‘everything is normal’ and that ‘it is all in your to diet. Advances in genetic research illustrate that head’, leaving them frustrated, desperate and unwell.

we are individually diverse, and no single guideline

The reality is that sorting out a person’s hormones

will work for everybody. This has been borne out by

is not as easy as throwing tablets at them. But, it is

research as well as the health benefits experienced

not that complicated either. It is about getting the

by many people who have experimented

basics right. Sleep. Exercise. Play. Eat clean.

successfully with low-carbohydrate diets.

Eating clean sounds boring and like an insur-

The nutritional community is currently highly

mountable task, until you read Inè’s practical sugges-

polarised between those clinging to a paradigm

tions and try out her easy, tasty recipes. I am speaking

that has clearly not served a significant segment of

for many of my patients, my family, the friends who

the population, and anti-carbohydrate activists who

eat at our house and certainly Annah, who prepares

are revolutionary and zealous campaigners. Inè is a

our food, when I
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diet, publishes new studies from time to time that tell us that a food we thought was good for us, or at least safe for consumption, can create health problems in the long run. Currently, 70 percent of the American diet is made up of processed food—food that has been manufactured to give it a longer shelf life and to make it taste “crave-able” so you can’t eat just one bite. Modern life is so hectic that many families don’t sit down together every evening to share dinner and conversation. One result of these changes is an obesity epidemic among children. So, in this new edition of Science Experiments You Can Eat, I have added a chapter about some of the influences of science on foods we do eat. It will help you read between the lines of the Nutrition Facts labels so that you understand the importance of healthy choices in your own diet. In addition, I have included nutrition information throughout the other chapters of the book as you also learn basic physics, chemistry, and biology.

But mostly this book is designed to whet your appetite for science. I want it to nourish your curiosity and feed your mind. I want to make science not only digestible but a feast of discovery. This book is a banquet of ideas and processes and yes, some very tasty and some not-so-tasty results. (Although I’ve done every experiment, to be honest, I haven’t eaten them all.) This is not gourmet dining, but it is food for thought.

PLAYING WITH FOOD

Cookbooks give you precise directions for preparing food. Recipes are the result of many experiments in test kitchens that turn out predictable, delicious dishes. But this is a science book, not a cookbook. Food preparation produces a lot of changes in food. And change is what interests scientists.

There is no simpler activity for a cook than boiling water. Put water in a pot, put it over a burner on the stove, and wait for bubbles to form. But a scientist looks at this phenomenon and asks many questions: How hot does water have to be in order to boil? Does the temperature of water still rise after it starts boiling? If not, why not? Does water boil at a different temperature at sea level compared to in the mountains? If so, what does that tell us about this phenomenon? What is steam? How can steam be used to power, say, a locomotive? Scientific understanding of boiling water was one of the great breakthroughs in science and technology. The purpose of this book is to get you to think as a scientist. It will also help you as a cook. You will come to understand that science is not the mysterious process for eggheads it’s cracked up to be.

So when you do these experiments, keep an open mind. You’ll get ideas. You’ll start wondering. And, best of all, you may start asking questions that you can answer with experiments of your own. If that happens, you might just be on your way to one of those precious “aha” moments. So don’t dismiss the power of your own brain. Good questions are how science makes progress. Here’s what Einstein, the most amazing scientist of the twentieth century and the icon of “genius,” said about questions: “If I had an hour to solve a problem and my life depended on the solution, I would spend the first fifty-five minutes determining the proper question to ask, for once I know the proper question, I could solve the problem in less than five minutes.” And “To raise new questions, new possibilities, to regard old problems from a new angle requires creative imagination and marks real advances in science.”

The best way to get ideas is to do something. This book is a good place to begin. If you don’t get the results you expect, it is not a failure. Nature doesn’t lie. Your results depend on many variables—the equipment and ingredients you used and the procedures you followed. I’ve tried to give you directions in this book that will yield predictable results. But your kitchen is not my kitchen. If you don’t get the expected results, try to think of what factors might have caused the difference. Redesign and repeat the procedure and see what happens. This is something scientists do—they publish their procedures so that others may repeat their experiments to make sure they all get the same data. In this way, science corrects itself. The body of knowledge that we call “science” is the result of countless experiments by many people. Imagine that! A community of people produced this knowledge and shared it with the world. Free! Science is the original wiki. Now you can join that community with experiments of your own.

Did you know scientists love to play? They’ve never forgotten what it’s like to be a kid. “Play” means that you suspend the rules and try stuff just for fun, just to see what happens. This book is your excuse to do just that.

HOW TO USE THIS BOOK

In order to ask good questions, you need some background knowledge. So every chapter in this book has a short introduction that discusses
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Méthodes antirides pour crème pâtissière : saupoudrez-la de sucre glace ou piquez un morceau de beurre sur une fourchette et passez-le sur la crème pour former une couche protectrice.

OMELETTE NORVÉGIENNE

6 PERSONNES

BON MARCHÉ

DÉLICAT À RÉALISER

PRÉPARATION : 30 MIN

CUISSON : 10 MIN

CONGÉLATION : 2 H

USTENSILES

1 grande bassine à fond rond – 1 casserole

1 batteur – 1 spatule plate

1 pinceau – 1 plat allant au four

INGRÉDIENTS

1 génoise de pâtissier

75 cl de glace (parfum au choix)

3 blancs d’œufs – 200 g de sucre

1 cuil. à café de vanille liquide

15 cl de liqueur ou d’alcool assorti au parfum de la glace

RÉALISATION

Faites bouillir 10 cl d’eau avec 50 g sucre. Ajoutez 5 cl de liqueur.

Entreposez la glace à température ambiante pour la ramollir. Coupez 2 formes ovales dans la génoise. Déposez un ovale sur un plat pouvant passer au four. Au pinceau, imbibez-le de sirop. Couvrez de glace coupée en tranches puis d’un autre ovale de biscuit imbibé. Remplissez les creux latéraux de lamelles de biscuit. Remettez au congélateur, 2 heures.

Préchauffez le four à 240 °C (th. 8). Portez 4 cl d’eau et 150 g de sucre à 121 °C (environ 5 minutes). Battez les blancs en neige molle. Versez le sirop en filet. Fouettez en neige ferme. Ajoutez la vanille. Masquez l’omelette de meringue.

Tapotez avec une spatule plate. Poudrez de sucre glace. Faites juste dorer au four. Arrosez de 10 cl de liqueur tiédie et flambez.

PAIN D’ÉPICES DE LUCIE

6 PERSONNES

COÛT MOYEN

FACILE

PRÉPARATION : 30 MIN

CUISSON : 1 H

USTENSILES

1 grande casserole – 1 tamis

1 terrine – 1 moule à cake – 1 pinceau

INGRÉDIENTS

125 g de farine de blé + 125 g de farine de seigle ou de sarrasin – 250 g de miel foncé

50 g de sucre roux – 100 g de sucre glace 15 cl de lait – 5 cl d’huile neutre

80 g d’écorce d’orange confite

1 cuil. à café de bicarbonate

1 cuil. à café d’épices pour pain d’épices

30 g de beurre pour le moule

50 g d’amandes entières pelées

2 cuil. à soupe d’eau de fleurs d’oranger

1/2 cuil. à café de sel

RÉALISATION

En remuant, portez à frémissements le miel (sapin, bruyère ou châtaigniers) avec le sucre roux, le lait et l’huile.

Tamisez les farines avec le bicarbonate, les épices et le sel. Ajoutez le miel. Travaillez puis pétrissez la pâte jusqu’à ce qu’elle soit souple et homogène. Incorporez l’orange confite en dés et l’eau de fleurs d’oranger.

Remplissez aux 3/4 un moule à cake beurré de pâte. Faites cuire à 150 °C (th. 5), environ 1 heure. Démoulez, laissez refroidir sur une grille.

Badigeonnez le pain d’épices du sucre glace délayé dans un peu d’eau. Décorez-le d’amandes légèrement grillées.

CAKE DE NOËL AUX FRUITS SECS

6 PERSONNES

COÛT MOYEN

FACILE

PRÉPARATION : 45 MIN

CUISSON : 1 H

USTENSILES

1 terrine – 1 bol – 1 pinceau – 1 spatule plate

1 moule rond profond de 20 cm de diamètre

1 patron de sapin en carton rigide à la hauteur du gâteau

INGRÉDIENTS

300 g de farine – 4 œufs

200 g de beurre ramolli

180 g de sucre roux

150 g de raisins blonds

50 g de figues + 50 g d’abricots secs en dés +

50 g de cerises confites +

3 cuil. à soupe de marmelade d’oranges

5 cl de rhum ambré

1/2 sachet de levure chimique

1/2 cuil. à café de quatre-épices

1 pincée de sel

500 g de fondant blanc

200 g de pâte d’amandes rose + 200 g de verte

3 cuil. à soupe de marmelade d’abricots

sucre glace

RÉALISATION

1 Allumez le four à 210 °C (th. 7). Roulez les fruits secs, les raisins et les cerises dans la farine tamisée avec la levure et le sel. Travaillez le beurre avec le sucre jusqu’à blanchiment.

2 Incorporez 1 œuf. Lorsque la pâte est lisse, incorporez les œufs restants, un à un, puis la farine, le quatre-épices et le rhum. Versez la pâte dans le moule beurré et fariné. Enfournez, au bout de 10 minutes baissez à 150 °C (th. 5) pour 45-50 minutes.

3 Laissez reposer le cake dans le moule, 10 minutes. Démoulez-le sur une grille, laissez-le refroidir, puis badigeonnez-le de marmelade tiédie et mixée. Au bain-marie faites fondre le fondant à 35 °C. Versez-le au centre du gâteau et étalez-le à la spatule pour napper entièrement le cake.

4 Étalez les pâtes d’amandes sur le plan de travail saupoudré de sucre glace. Découpez des sapins en pâte d’amandes. Plaquez-les sur le tour avant la prise du fondant. Poudrez de sucre glace.

VARIANTE

À défaut de fondant, masquez le gâteau d’un glaçage royal ou d’un glaçage simple. Piquez-le de bonbons argentés, boules, perles, ou d’autres motifs décoratifs à votre choix.

TRUC DE CUISINIER

Le fondant est vendu en supermarché et chez les pâtissiers.

COURONNE DE L’AVENT

6 PERSONNES

BON MARCHÉ

FACILE

PRÉPARAT
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ear old will take longer. Taste for seasoning. (Store in the cooking liquid in an airtight container in the freezer for up to 3 months.)

SMOKY EGGPLANT DIP: BABA GHANOUSH

* * *

There are few aromas that can compete with the smoky richness of eggplant being cooked over a hot fire. I set these on a grate directly over a gas flame, but hot coals or an outdoor grill is an excellent alternative. Cooking the eggplant over an open flame imparts a depth of flavor and aroma that cannot be achieved with simple oven roasting. I enjoy a smoky eggplant dip that has a good lemony tang and a healthy hit of fresh garlic. Serve this with Falafel (see Crispy, Spicy Chickpea Balls: Falafel), Crispy Flatbread (see Crispy Flatbread), or Homemade Pita Bread (see Homemade Pita Bread) or as one of several appetizers. Sometimes I think that the purpose of a salad is to shake up the palate, and this combination sure does that!

* * *

2 CUPS

EQUIPMENT: A TWO-PRONGED MEAT FORK; A SMALL, SHARP KNIFE OR A SERRATED

GRAPEFRUIT SPOON; A FOOD PROCESSOR OR A BLENDER.

2 small, fresh eggplants (each about 8 ounces), rinsed (do not peel)

2 plump, moist garlic cloves, peeled, halved, and green germ removed

3 tablespoons tahini (sesame paste)

3 tablespoons freshly squeezed lemon juice (or to taste)

½ teaspoon fine sea salt

Mild paprika, for garnish

2 tablespoons minced fresh parsley leaves

2 teaspoons best-quality sesame oil (such as Leblanc) or extra-virgin olive oil

1. With a two-pronged meat fork, prick the eggplants all over. Place them directly over an open gas flame, hot coals, or an outdoor grill. Cook for 10 minutes, turning the eggplants constantly with tongs, until the entire skin is blackened, blistered, and has collapsed in on itself. Remove the eggplants from the heat and place in a plastic bag. Let the eggplants cool for 10 minutes.

2. Gently peel the eggplant skin away from the flesh with a small, sharp knife or a serrated grapefruit spoon. Be careful not to let any pieces of the skin remain. (Use paper towels to wipe away any recalcitrant bits of skin.) Place the eggplant pulp in a colander and let it drain for 5 minutes.

3. In a food processor or blender, chop the garlic. Add the tahini, lemon juice, and salt and process to blend. Add the eggplant pulp and process just for a few seconds, to blend the ingredients. Taste for seasoning. The mixture should remain rather chunky. Spoon the dip into a shallow bowl and garnish with paprika, the parsley, and the oil. Serve at room temperature. (Store in an airtight container in the refrigerator for up to 3 days.)

PARMESAN BABY CAKES: SAVORY CANNELÉS

* * *

Classic cannelés are popular rum-and-vanilla-flavored cakes from the Bordeaux region of France. Traditional cannelés are baked in beautiful individual tin-lined copper molds. The problem was never the recipe—just the ability to unmold, one by one, the sweet and fragrant cakes. Now that single sheets of silicone molds—holding anywhere from 18 to 28 to 54 miniature cakes—can be readily found on the market, the sweet treats are child’s play. And once you have invested in the molds, there is no reason not to move cannelés into the savory side of cuisine. Here is my version, filled with cheese and bits of cured meat, making them perfect accompaniments to any salad.

* * *

18 CANNELÉS

EQUIPMENT: A PASTRY BRUSH; A SILICONE MINIATURE

CANNELÉS MOLD, SHEET OF 18; A BAKING SHEET.

1 cup whole milk

1½ tablespoons unsalted butter, plus 1 tablespoon melted butter for the molds

1 cup unbleached, all-purpose flour

1 cup freshly grated Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese

1 large egg, lightly beaten

¼ teaspoon fine sea salt

¼ teaspoon ground piment d’Espelette or other ground mild chile pepper

¼ cup cooked diced bacon, pancetta, or coppa (optional)

1. Preheat the oven to 375°F.

2. In a medium saucepan, combine the milk and butter. Bring to a boil over high heat. Remove from the heat and whisk in the flour, cheese, egg, salt, and piment d’Espelette. The batter will be lumpy. Set aside to rest for 30 minutes, whisking from time to time.

3. Brush the molds with the melted butter. Place the silicone sheet on a baking sheet. Carefully spoon the batter into the buttered molds, filling them just to the top. If using the meat, drop a few pieces into each mold. Place the baking sheet in the oven and bake until the cannelés have puffed up and are a very deep golden brown, about 45 minutes.

4. Remove from the oven and let cool for about 5 minutes. Then turn the cakes out of the molds onto a clean, flat surface. Let cool and firm up before serving, at least 20 minutes. The cannelés are best served the day they are baked.

MARINATED OLIVE QUARTET

* * *

If a single variety of olives can be good, can’t three or f
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of stock elements on the following pages should help you approach stock making in a relaxed and spontaneous manner. In fact you may find, as I do, that it’s a pleasure to use all the bits and pieces that might otherwise be thrown away and to end up with something that adds to the flavor of your final dish.

The generic vegetarian stock consisting of onion, carrot, celery, and bay leaf simmered in water doesn’t add a great deal to a soup. There needs to be more, in the way of either ingredients or technique, to arrive at a liquid that adds something. But you can take even these most basic ingredients and tailor them to stocks that revolve around a constellation of particular ingredients and flavors by simply including pieces of the vegetables, herbs, and spices that work with your intended soup. If you’re making a celery root and leek soup, for example, add the trimmings of these vegetables to the basic vegetables. Often simmering soup trimmings in water with onion, celery, carrots, and a handful of parsley can enhance your soup.

THE ELEMENTS OF FLAVOR

It’s often more useful to know how ingredients work than to know a particular recipe, because then you can improvise with ease. Familiarize yourself with this material and you’ll soon become adept at building flavor into your stocks and inventing new ones. The measurement suggestions, when given, are for 2 quarts of water.

Basic Ingredients for All Vegetable Stocks: Virtually all stocks start with these ingredients, which are the backbone ingredients for the basic Vegetable Stock.

Onions, leeks, carrots, celery

Thyme, bay, parsley, and garlic (use those little hard-to-peel cloves, which can be left unpeeled)

Leek and scallion trimmings: roots and leaves

Oil or butter for initial sautéing of the vegetables

Ingredients That Are Always Good to Include: These avoid the sweet end of the vegetable spectrum and give depth to stocks.

Chard stems and leaves, beet greens except for red ones

Fresh mushrooms, the soaking water from dried mushrooms, dried mushrooms

Scallions, in addition to or in place of onions or leeks

Potato parings and celery root skins if organic

Parsley root

Jerusalem artichokes

Lettuce

Eggplant

Lentils

Walnuts or almonds

Ingredients to Use for Their Particular Flavors: These ingredients have discernible flavors and should be included in stocks that will be used in soups that feature them.

Asparagus, the butt ends

Parsnips, trimmings and cores

Winter squash, skins and seeds

Fennel, stalks and trimmings

Corncobs and pea pods

Cilantro, lovage, Chinese celery

Cumin, ginger, lemongrass, galangal, saffron

Dried mushrooms

Ingredients for Summer Stocks: Vegetable stocks made in the summer can include any of the following seasonal vegetables and herbs in addition to the basic ingredients:

Zucchini and other summer squash

Tomatoes

Green beans and corncobs

Eggplant

Bell peppers: veins, cores, seeds, and discarded tops

Herbs: marjoram and basil, stems or leaves

Ingredients for Winter Stocks: Seek out these additions for your earthy winter vegetable stocks and add them to the basic ingredients.

Celery root parings, well scrubbed

Parsley root, burdock, and salsify

Leeks: paler green leaves and roots

Garlic, fresh or roasted

Dried or fresh sage, 1 or 2 teaspoons

Rosemary, about a 1-inch piece

Mushrooms, fresh and/or dried

Tomato paste

Lentils

Nonseasonal Ingredients That Add Depth to Stocks

Sprouted seeds and legumes, 1 to 2 handfuls

Lentils and mung beans, ¼ cup, rinsed

Cooking liquid from beans (in place of water), especially from chickpeas and white beans

Nettles, amaranth, and borage leaves, one or more handfuls

Miso, tamari, soy sauce: a spoonful at a time, to taste, at the end

Kombu, a 6-inch piece, added at the beginning

Nuts, ½ to 1 cup, tied in cheesecloth, cooked for 20 minutes (they can be retrieved, dried in the oven, and used in cooking)

Rinds of Parmigiano-Reggiano

Ingredients to Avoid: There are very few ingredients to avoid, and almost all are vegetables in the cabbage family.

Turnips and rutabagas

Cabbages and Brussels sprouts

Broccoli and cauliflower, except stems

Red beets, unless you’re making a beet soup

Tiny celery seeds, powdered herbs, ground pepper, because they can turn stock bitter

Artichoke trimmings, which are usually highly sprayed unless organic, and bitter

Funky, moldy vegetables (anything you wouldn’t want to eat)

Vegetables that have been sprayed with pesticides and insecticides

Vegetable Stock

MAKES ABOUT 6 CUPS

The steps in this basic stock can intermingle with the preparation of a soup as you’ll be adding trimmings from the soup ingredients as you produce them. Begin making your stock before you organize your so
sity and enthusiasm of a shameless tourist. I hope this book helps you approach Thai cooking in the same way. If nothing else, remember this: Food does not have to be precious. Make it fun.

DRINK WINE WITH THAI FOOD: A CALL TO ACTION

Since the first day we opened, I’ve had this persistent fantasy. In it, someone comes to the restaurant, orders a bottle of wine, and doesn’t eat anything at all. It hasn’t happened yet, but I’m holding out hope.

The reason it occurs to me is because Night + Market was conceived as a wine bar as much as it was a restaurant, and in my view it still functions that way. Wine has always been a major part of the story we tell: the idea of encountering things in an unexpected context, and the joy of discovering combinations that are as appealing as they are unlikely. In fact, when we first started, we had more wines by the glass on the menu than we had food items.

So why does Thai food and wine make sense? Well, in some ways it works because you have total freedom. There is no tradition of wine drinking or winemaking in Thailand and thus no orthodoxy, no right or wrong answers about what you should or shouldn’t drink. The robust and very essential drinking culture that does exist revolves around supercold, watery lagers and whiskey, which is usually drunk with soda water or something bubbly. The unifying element is that you’re drinking things that are refreshing and thirst quenching in a way that matches with assertively seasoned Thai food.

Like a lot of people, I used to not link the idea of refreshment with wine. I thought of it as this contemplative, heavy thing that you sipped and swirled by the fireplace out of big round glasses, which of course it can be in certain contexts. But then I was introduced to another kind of wine. I realized that it could be a beverage that was energizing and uplifting. It was something you could drink frequently and copiously—chug, even—without feeling like it was precious, or reserved for special occasions.

What types of wines am I talking about? Here’s how I like to think of them:

WINES THAT ARE MEANT TO BE DRUNK NOW

I haven’t had the privilege of enjoying many wines with age, that is, wines that have been sitting in the bottle for more than a couple of years. Part of that is a function of price—older wines tend to be more expensive. Part of that is just a function of those wines not being widely available. Those constraints are what actually led me to discover the wines that would make up the bulk of what we pour at Night + Market as well as what I drink at home: wines that are meant to be enjoyed young. What that provides is a wine that is fresh and light on its feet. I’ve been fortunate enough to work some harvests in France’s Loire Valley, and what impresses me most is how distinct and vibrant a wine can be right when it’s put into the bottle, sometimes even before it’s finished fermenting. It’s important to remember that wine is at its core an agricultural product from the countryside, made by farmers who like to party. They want their wine to facilitate fun-having as much as you do.

WINES THAT SHOULD BE CONSUMED WITH ABANDON

Thierry Puzelat, a winemaker hero of mine and a legendary figure in the wine community, is credited with saying something to the effect of, My favorite wine is the bottle I can drain in ten minutes or less. It might seem obvious, but wine should first and foremost be drinkable. In fact, it should entice you to drink it quickly. Part of what makes wine culture seem so snobby and off-putting to outsiders is that it prioritizes deep, contemplative wines and downplays the role of wine as a beverage, something to quench your thirst and make you happy. It’s party fuel. An offshoot of seeking out fresh and vibrant wines is that they tend to have lower alcohol in exchange for more liveliness. There are gently sparkling wines that literally smell and taste like the world’s greatest strawberry wine cooler (without the saccharine aftertaste) and astoundingly, the only thing that makes them taste that way is grape juice and yeast. What I’m saying is, start thinking of wine as a daily, gulpable pleasure rather than something that collects dust in a cupboard. If that means seeking out wines that are affordable enough to buy two of rather than splurging on one, that’s a good thing—you’d be amazed at the immensely enjoyable bottles you can pick up for between fifteen and twenty-five dollars. A budget should be an asset rather than a liability.

WINES ENJOYED FAMILY-STYLE

At Night + Market, we serve our food family-style. Dishes come out of the kitchen in big waves and are meant to be enjoyed together. With that, it seems only logical that wine should be approached family-style as well. Another by-product of a too-restrictive wine culture is that most people overemphasize food pairings. Not to say that pairings

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