- Full Title: Chocolate, Wine, Coffee, Tea, and Carob: Weight Loss Superfoods: Recipes to Help You Lose Weight Without Calorie Counting or Exercise (Vol 9)
- Autor: Deborah Marks
- Print Length: 66 pages
- Publisher: Final State Press; 1 edition
- Publication Date: June 7, 2013
- Language: English
- ISBN-10: B00D9EH46C
- Download File Format | Size: epub | 3,21 Mb
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Library of Congress Cataloging-in-Publication Data
The complete jerky book: how to dry, cure, and preserve everything from venison to turkey/Monte Burch.
ISBN 978-1-61608-040-2 (pbk.: alk. paper)
1. Dried beef. 2. Dried meat. 3. Cookery (Game) I. Title.
Printed in China
1. All About Jerky
2. Tools and Materials
3. Food Safety
4. Old-Time Jerky Making
5. Sliced Muscle-Meat Jerky
6. Modern Ground Jerky
7. More Jerky Recipes
8. Small Game and Wildfowl Jerky
9. Fish Jerky
I’ve hunted deer from Alaska to Mexico and just about everywhere in between, and one thing I’ve noticed is that, no matter where you are, you can always count on someone bringing jerky to deer camp. Hunting camp wouldn’t be the same without it.
I don’t know how many deer I’ve taken over the years, but a great deal of my venison has gone into jerky. Our family has been making and snacking on jerky since the early 1970s. Even today, there’s usually a jar of it on my office desk, at least until my supply runs out. When I’m out hunting, I always have some while I’m sitting in my tree stand, waiting for a whitetail to come by. Jerky is a great snack, and it can be made out of just about any lean meat, including domestic meats. Beef is the most common meat for commercially made jerky, while homemade jerky can made from all different kinds of wild game.
In days past, jerky making was an essential survival skill; today it’s more of a hobby, a great way to utilize venison or other meat, and provide a tasty, nutritious snack food. Jerky making can be as simple as slicing meat into thin strips and drying, or can be more involved by grinding and adding any number of spices. It’s a fun pastime, especially when you start experimenting with different recipes. Making jerky is a great way to learn an ancient skill, and will provide you with an appreciation of the ways of our ancestors. In this book, you’ll find the oldest and the latest information on making jerky. You’ll find many old and new recipes, some resurrected from the past, some taken from my family’s recipe books, and others garnered from friends and deer-camp buddies who all enjoy making jerky. We hope you’ll enjoy this enough to start making jerky own your own. Just be forewarned: Once you become involved in this fun and rewarding hobby, you’ll be hooked for a long time.
—Monte Burch, Humansville, MO, February 2010
All About Jerky
The word “jerky” is derived from a Peruvian term, quichua (pronounced kee-chew-a). The native South American Quechua term, ch’arki or charque, came from this, and means “dried meat.” The term eventually made its way north and was adopted by Native Americans. Early scouts, explorers, and trappers heard the word and soon turned it into “jerky.”
While we can trace the origins of the word, no one really knows how the ancient process of drying meat for storage began. The technique of drying meat, fruits, and vegetables to preserve them is one of mankind’s oldest skills. You wonder who actually discovered that a hunk of mastodon meat left in the sun was still edible, and began the process. Dried meat not only does not decay or invite insect infestation as much as fresh meat, but it can be stored for periods of time and is lightweight, making it easy to transport and eat on the go—the original fast food. This was extremely important for hunters and gatherers as they often killed game and foraged far from their campsites, consuming the dried meat as they followed future food sources.
A staple food since mankind’s beginnings, jerky was a common food of the Native Americans and was carried by the explorers, trappers, and scouts as they discovered and opened North America.
No longer a staple in some modern cultures, today jerky is primarily a snack food—an extremely nutritious food that you can take outdoors or enjoy at home.
There is evidence that jerky was produced thousands of years ago in ancient Egypt. It became an important food back then because it could be produced in large quanti
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asparagus tip and a slice of truffle and serve it as a canapé. But lardo is delicious on its own. Its texture and flavor are amazing—there’s nothing like it—and it couldn’t be easier to make. All it takes is good pork—that is, organic or farm-raised pork—which is now available not just to restaurant chefs but to home cooks everywhere via the Internet. I want to stress how simple and natural the method is: good pork, salt, and time are the principal ingredients. That something so easy to make is also so extraordinary to eat is part of its pleasure.
Charcuterie is appropriate at every level of dining, and it runs the entire gamut of cooking. That includes home cooking, where charcuterie once played a huge role and will again—not one day far in the future but now. Some charcuterie techniques couldn’t be simpler. A BLT is one of the best uses of charcuterie I know, for instance. Making your own sausage and frying up some patties is no more difficult than grinding your own hamburger, but to season it yourself, and to cook and eat what you’ve made, is a very special thing. Charcuterie is sometimes relegated to fall and winter cooking, but it should be an important part of your kitchen year-round.
A final reason Charcuterie is important: it recognizes the pig as the superior creature that it is. From a culinary standpoint, the pig is unmatched in the diversity of flavors and textures it offers the cook and the uses it can be put to—from head to tail, from ham to tenderloin, it’s a marvel. A piece of pork belly can be brined, roasted, grilled, sautéed, dry-cured, braised, or confited, with widely varying results. This is a very hopeful time for the pig in America, and this book underscores that fact.
Come to think of it, this book reminds me what a hopeful time it is for cooking in general in this country. This may well be the most exciting time ever to be a cook and a chef in America. And Charcuterie is a perfect example of why.
THE REASON FOR THIS FOOD, THIS BOOK:
WHY WE STILL LOVE AND NEED HAND-PRESERVED FOODS IN THE AGE OF THE REFRIGERATOR, THE FROZEN DINNER, DOMINO’S PIZZA, AND THE 24-HOUR GROCERY STORE
Sometimes books are the result of a surprise, in this case a surprise (via duck confit) that became a fascination that transformed into a quest to understand this food that we still categorize under the broad label of charcuterie, a range of preparations from sausages to pâtés, confits to cured salmon, all of which have some sort of cure and preservation at their core. This is not a thirty-minute-meals cookbook, not a book to help you get dinner on the table fast or tell you how to whip together an impromptu dinner party for eight. It is a book about craftsmanship, for people who love to cook and eat. In this chapter, Brian and I describe its genesis—that is, why on earth we would devote two years of our lives and an entire cookbook to a love song to animal fat, to salt, to the pig—as well as how to use our recipes.
A powerful mania descended on me a decade ago when I first tasted duck confit (confit de canard): duck salted for hours, if not days, then poached gently in its own fat, and then submerged in that fat and left to “ripen.” What amazed me first was that you could poach meat in fat. I found the idea of poaching anything in fat appealing, and the idea of poaching a rich fatty meat in more fat enormously so. But what truly hooked me was how amazing the duck confit was to eat—the salty, gently spiced meat was deeply, richly succulent, the skin crispy.
I began to explore the technique. You could do so many things with duck confit: stew it in some beans (as in cassoulet, the well-known French bean dish), make a salad of it with some greens and a vinaigrette, put it on mashed potatoes or polenta, add chunks of it to a country pâté. You could even tuck it between slices of Wonder Bread and it would still be fantastic.
But the ideal way to serve it, I realized, is on a bed of diced potatoes that have been fried crispy and flavorful in that amazing duck fat. Duck served this way has what chefs call integrity: both items are cooked in the same medium, with different effects, and the dish retains the rustic simplicity embodied by the duck and the potato. This is what you would eat on a farm in France, where the technique of preserving duck has thrived for centuries.
Yet originally duck that pleased the palate and satisfied the soul wasn’t the point. The goal of the confit was preservation; that’s what confit means: preserved. A French farmwife cooked and stored duck in its own fat because that kept the duck from spoiling for a long, long time. She and her family, frugal by necessity, could eat it as they needed it, wasting nothing. That pleasure happened to a by-product of economy and survival underscor
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waiting (store it in a cool, shaded place outside, away from the grill). Older gas grills had only two side-by-side burners. Now many models have three burners, and their configuration varies widely. If you often grill for a crowd, you may want a big three-burner grill, but a good-sized two-burner version is more than adequate for most purposes. While it’s true that gas grills tend to burn less hot than a charcoal fire, they are becoming more powerful. And instead of the ceramic briquettes or lava rocks used in older grills, many newer models include features designed to add to the grilled flavor, such as metal slats positioned between the burners and the grate to catch the juices from the grilling food—as the juices drip onto the hot metal and caramelize or evaporate, their smoky perfume fills the grill.
Many hard-core grill dogs and barbecuers disdain gas grills, insisting that food cooked over a gas flame doesn’t have the same flavor as that cooked over live fire and that turning on a gas grill just isn’t “real” grilling. It’s true that building a live fire is a more hands-on experience, and that a steak cooked over a real hardwood fire will have more char flavor than one cooked on a gas grill. But in reality, most people use charcoal briquettes, and even if you use hardwood lump charcoal, the difference in flavor is likely to be minimal. The main disadvantage of a charcoal grill is the limited window of grilling time. For foods that take longer than about 20 to 30 minutes to cook, you can add more coals to the fire (20 or so at a time) as it burns, but you have to keep your eye on the fire and the time.
Kettle grills are the most popular type of charcoal grill. They have two racks, the grill grate and another one for the coals. A disadvantage of most kettle grills is that the grill rack has only one position, so you can’t lower or raise it to change the heat level. Square or rectangular charcoal grills may not have a separate grate for the coals, but they usually have at least two positions for the grill rack.
Portable grills can be handy for picnics or tailgating. Both gas and charcoal versions are available. Portable charcoal grills include tabletop models and the familiar hibachi.
If you grill a lot and have the space, you might want to have both a gas grill and a charcoal one. Or, for the real experience, get either a gas or a charcoal grill and then build a wood-burning brick oven in the backyard—like the one I have at my summer house.
LIGHTING THE FIRE
If you have a gas grill, all you need to do is turn it on or ignite the flame. Always have the lid of the grill open when you turn on the fuel, or gas could build up and cause an explosion; also check to make sure that all the burners have ignited before you close the lid to allow the grill to preheat. Let the grill preheat, with all the burners on high, for 10 to 15 minutes, then adjust the burner heat if necessary, depending on what you are cooking.
The easiest way to light a fire in a charcoal grill is to use a chimney, a simple metal cylinder with a wire grate toward the bottom and four vent holes. Crumple a few pieces of newspaper and stuff them into the bottom of the chimney, set it on the bottom grill grate or the bottom of the grill, and fill it with charcoal. Open all the vents in the bottom of the grill, light the newspaper through the vent holes in the chimney, and watch to make sure it has ignited the charcoal—you should see flames reaching up through the briquettes (if not, replace the newspaper and light it again). Wait until all the coals are ignited, usually about 15 minutes, then carefully pour them out into the grill and let burn until they are all covered with grayish-white ash.
Electric coil starters, available at hardware stores, are another option for lighting a charcoal fire. Place the starter on the bottom grill grate or the bottom of the grill, carefully pile the charcoal on top of it, and plug it in. Once the coals have ignited, after about 10 minutes, carefully remove the starter and set it on a heatproof surface (somewhere safe, where no one might touch it) to cool down. You can add more coals to the ones that have ignited if you want a larger fire. Then let them all burn until covered with ash.
You can also use paraffin starters, available at most hardware stores, to ignite the charcoal (these can replace the newspaper in a chimney starter). Simply follow the instructions on the package. But avoid lighter fluid at all costs. It smells terrible and it can add its unmistakable flavor to the food. Avoid self-igniting briquettes for the same reason.
Regular charcoal briquettes are made of pulverized and compressed hardwood charcoal and chemical binders. The more expensive brands tend to burn longer than the generics. Hardwood charcoal, called natural lump charcoal or charwood, is made from various hardwoods, including hic
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s such as nuts or wasabi peas, use a 2-cup bowl. It’s the perfect size because it’s not so small that you have to keep refilling it.
* * *
When Mother Nature Doesn’t Cooperate: The weather can wreak havoc with even the best party plans. Check the forecast three days ahead and make a plan if it isn’t what you desire it to be. If rain or snow is predicted, place some old towels by the door so that guests can wipe their feet. Set up something outside the front door for umbrellas so they don’t drip everywhere (or stick them in the bathtub or shower). Clear out your coat closet, spread garbage bags on the floor, and hang up guests’ wet coats. If it starts to rain during the party, hand out garbage bags as makeshift raincoats and Ziploc bags to cover your guests’ heads. An inexpensive clothes rack from a store such as Target or Bed Bath & Beyond is an easy solution if you don’t have a coat closet or don’t want guests piling wet coats in the bedroom.
For an outdoor party, don’t schedule a rain date—bring it inside instead. If you’ve reserved an outdoor space at a restaurant, like a patio, make sure it can be covered. And remember, there’s always a rental tent available. When it started raining before one of my own parties, I quickly threw up a portable frame tent with a vinyl top I had found at Kmart and set up the bar outside my covered front door. A tent may not be the prettiest structure, but adding your own touches can really jazz it up, whether it’s balloons, swaths of fabric, holiday lights, or large branches. And you can customize a tent: take the vinyl top to a seamstress and have her replace it with your favorite fabric. (Look for discount outdoor fabric, such as Sunbrella brand fabric, online.) Whether or not it’s raining, it’s fun to set up the bar outside. For an outdoor bar, I like to place a lamp or two on the bar, or some candles, to make it look homey.
MY HOSTESS TRICKS
As the daughter of a caterer, I’ve found that party planning and entertaining have always come naturally to me. But what I’ve learned is that even if you’re not a planner, if you take a few minutes to write out a menu, find recipes, or make lists of groceries or entertaining supplies such as candles, you can minimize your stress level. Don’t be afraid to jump in, and what initially seems scary will begin to seem quite manageable. Remember that the key to any party, big or small, is the host or hostess. You set the mood of the party.
Make Your House Welcoming: There’s nothing more inviting than walking into a house and smelling something lovely. Some people don’t like strong scents, but I’m crazy about them: flowers, candles, incense, pine, cinnamon, coffee—you name it.
My favorite trick is to buy refrigerated cookie dough and bake the cookies as the guests arrive. (Or make my own cookie dough, freeze it, and bake it as needed.) Arrange the cookies on a cake plate and set them on a countertop—you can even put them in a fun jar or short round vase. Just be creative!
To create an inviting scent, you can also boil apple cider on the stove with a handful of cloves or cinnamon sticks; the scent is divine. An easy shortcut is to brew apple-cinnamon or orange spice tea bags. My mom loves to heat up a saucepan of fresh cider mixed with cranberry juice and cinnamon sticks, which smells heavenly and makes a great party drink.
Nail Down the Timing: This takes practice, and after a few parties you’ll have it mastered. Here are guidelines to get you started for both planned and impromptu events.
* * *
LULU’S TIP FOR GUESTS
I wouldn’t dream of showing up at someone’s house for a party empty-handed. A hostess gift shows that you appreciate being invited, and it can just be something small like an elegant candle, your favorite chocolates, or your kid’s homemade cookies. Choose something you love, whether it’s a bottled steak sauce or a jar of jam. It’s a small gesture that speaks volumes.
* * *
Two Weeks Ahead: For a big party, plan your menu and make sure your pantry items are stocked. When planning your menu, think seasonally and remember that you can cook and decorate with seasonal ingredients. If you have children, make sure to book a babysitter for the duration of the party. You don’t want to be running after the kids or putting them to bed while entertaining a houseful of guests. (One of my clients solved this problem by sending the babysitter and the kids to a hotel for the night!)
The Day Before: Whether the party is big or small, shop and start to prep one day ahead of time. Buy all the ingredients and make what you can at least one day before the party. Planning to serve a salsa, a peppercorn sauce, cookies, or a chocolate cake? Make it ahead of time. Once you start to check things off your checklist, your shoulders will drop and you’ll feel less stressed. Buy ite
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Breads and bagels. These are often quite good, but keep an eye on the portion size listed on the label. I’ve seen low-carb bagels with a label claiming only 4 grams per serving, but discovered that a serving was only 1/3 of a bagel!
Tortillas. Useful not only for eating with fajitas and burritos and for making quesadillas, but also in place of Chinese mu shu pancakes. Be aware that lowcarb tortillas, although tasty, are not identical to either flour or corn tortillas in either flavor or texture.
Jams, jellies, and condiments. These do contain the carbohydrates from whatever fruit or vegetable was used to make them, but not added sugars. Generally very good in quality, especially Jok’n Al brand, imported from New Zealand.
Pastas. I have yet to find a brand of low-carb pasta that has really impressed me, but some of them are okay. I find that the texture of the pastas is off, so they cook up either too soft or too chewy. Still, the stuff sells like low-carb hotcakes, so somebody must really like it. If you are having a hard time passing up pasta, these products are worth a try.
Cold cereals. I’ve tried two low-carb cold cereals. One, called Keto Crisp, is quite similar to Rice Krispies in texture and flavor. This is now available in a chocolate flavor, as well. The other is called Nuttlettes, and it’s very much like Grape Nuts. They’re both good if you’re fond of the cereals they imitate. Both of these “cereals” are made from soy, which some people think is a life-saving wonder food but others—including me—aren’t sure is safe in large quantities. It’s a moot point for me, since I just don’t miss Rice Krispies or Grape Nuts enough to bother with these cereals. (Although Keto Crisp makes a mean cookie bar!) However, if you do miss cold cereal, these products are quite good, as well as low in carbohydrates and high in protein.
Protein chips. These are okay, but not so wonderful that I’ve bothered to buy them often. Of the “regular” chips, these most closely resemble tortilla chips, but the texture is noticeably different. If you’re mad for a bag of chips, these are worth a try. But for me, I’d rather have pumpkin seeds.
Protein meal replacement shakes. Mostly quite good, and certainly useful for folks who can’t face cooked food first thing in the morning. They’re available in a wide range of flavors.
Protein bars. These seem to be everywhere these days. They range from pretty darned good to absolutely wretched, sometimes within the same brand. You’ll have to try a few brands and flavors to see which ones you like. Be aware that there is a lot of controversy about low-carb protein bars. Virtually all of them contain glycerine, to make them moist and chewy. The controversy is over whether or not glycerine acts like a carbohydrate in some ways in the body. Many people find that these bars knock them out of ketosis, whereas others don’t have a problem. So I’ll say it again: Pay attention to your body!
Hot cereal. There is one low-carb hot cereal on the market at this writing: Flax-O-Meal. I haven’t tried it, but by all reports it is very good.
Cookies and brownies. These are getting better every day, and many are quite good already. I’ve had low-carb brownies that were superb, and some very nice oatmeal cookies, as well. See “About Polyols,” on page 18.
Muffins. Although some of these are quite good, others are not so brilliant, and often the same brand varies widely depending on which flavor you choose. You’ll just have to try them and see which you like.
Other sweet low-carb baked goods. I’ve tried commercially made low-carb cheesecake and cake rolls. The cheesecake was pretty good, but I can make better for far less money. I didn’t like the cake rolls at all because I found them overwhelmingly sweet. But I know that they sell quite well, so somebody must like them.
Chocolate bars and other chocolate candy. These, my friend, are generally superb. The best of the low-carb chocolate candies, including Carbolite, Pure De-Lite, Ross, Darrell Lea, and Low Carb Chef, are indistinguishable from their sugar-laden counterparts. You can get low-carb chocolate in both milk and dark. There are peanut butter cups, crispy bars, turtles, you name it. I haven’t had a really bad sugar-free chocolate yet. See “About Polyols,” on page 18.
Other sugar-free candy. You can, if you look, find sugar-free taffies, hard candies, marshmallows, jelly beans, and other sweet treats. Again, the quality of these tends to be excellent. See “About Polyols,” on page 18.
Polyols, also known as sugar alcohols, are widely used in sugar-free candies and cookies. There are a variety of polyols, and their names all end with “ol”—lactitol, maltitol, mannitol, sorbitol, xylitol, and the like. Polyols are, indeed, carbohydrates, but they are carbohydrates that are made up of molecules that are too big for humans to digest or absorb e
imply for “cheese” without being more specific, so I guessed at the intent. Asadero, a mild melting cheese, was available in the late 1800s and worked well when I tried it in the dish. I also made the recipe with Gruyère, another cheese popular in Mexico at the time, and found I preferred its nutty, salty flavor with the earthy peppers. Like many Mexican chile con quesos, this dish is meant to be served as a side dish but it’s satisfying wrapped in tortillas, too.
1887 // MAKES 4 SERVINGS
1 tablespoon unsalted butter
1½ cups diced grape tomatoes
4 poblano chiles, roasted (see this page), peeled, seeded, and cut into thin slices
¼ cup whole milk
4 ounces Gruyère or asadero cheese, shredded
¼ teaspoon kosher salt
Warm corn or flour tortillas, for serving
In a large skillet, melt the butter over low heat. Add the tomatoes and cook, stirring occasionally, until softened and some of the juices have been released, about 5 minutes. Stir in the poblanos and cook for 1 to 2 minutes longer, or until fragrant and warm. Stir in the milk, cheese, and salt. Cook, stirring, until the cheese has melted, 1 to 2 minutes. Taste and add more salt, if you like.
Serve immediately as a side dish or with warm tortillas.
CHILE VERDE CON QUESO
The earliest published recipe for chile con queso appeared in 1896 in The Land of Sunshine (a magazine published in Los Angeles). Prior to this, the term had been used in Mexican literature and recipes had appeared that were similar to the dish, but this is the first recipe with the phrase “chile con queso” in the name.
The recipe, like many early ones, did not specify a type of cheese, so I assumed Monterey Jack because that cheese was created in California by Mexican Franciscan monks in the mid-1800s.
This queso’s simplicity is part of its charm. It’s too thick to be a dip, but makes for a hearty side dish folded into tortillas.
1896 // MAKES 4 TO 6 SERVINGS
20 Anaheim chiles
4 ripe plum tomatoes, halved lengthwise
1 tablespoon lard, shortening, or vegetable oil
8 ounces Monterey Jack cheese, shredded
¼ teaspoon kosher salt
Warm corn or flour tortillas, for serving
Line a baking sheet with aluminum foil. Position a rack about 6 inches from the upper heating element and preheat the broiler. Place the Anaheims and tomatoes, skin-side up, on the sheet. Roast, turning once, for 10 minutes, or until the skins are blackened.
Transfer the chiles to a paper sack or plastic food-storage bag, close it tightly, and let the chiles steam for 20 minutes. Remove the chiles from the bag and rub off the skins. Discard the stems and seeds and dice the chiles. Rub off the skins from the tomatoes.
In a large skillet, melt the lard over medium-low heat and add the chiles and tomatoes. Gently mash with the back of a wooden spoon and cook until heated through and fragrant, about 5 minutes. Add the cheese and cook, stirring, until melted. Add the salt, then taste and add more salt, if you like.
Serve immediately as a side dish or with warm tortillas.
In 1914, Boston Cooking School Magazine published a recipe for Mexican rarebit that both eliminated the egg, typically part of the recipe, and included fresh green chiles, tomato, and corn. The recipe tastes surprisingly current today, and if I had to cite a recipe that marked the transition to what Americans now know as chile con queso, this would be the one. If you’re feeling old-fashioned, serve it over toast as it was originally intended, but it’s terrific with tortilla chips, too.
1914 // MAKES 4 TO 6 SERVINGS
2 tablespoons unsalted butter
¾ cup diced grape tomatoes
2 Anaheim chiles, roasted (see this page), peeled, seeded, and diced
¼ cup fresh or frozen corn kernels
½ cup Mexican lager, such as Modelo Light
8 ounces yellow American cheese, shredded
½ teaspoon cayenne
½ teaspoon kosher salt
Toast or Tortilla Chips (this page), for serving
In a medium saucepan, melt the butter over medium-low heat. Add the tomatoes, Anaheims, and corn and cook, stirring occasionally, until some of the juices have been released from the tomatoes, about 2 minutes.
Pour in the beer and add the cheese. Cook, stirring, until the cheese has melted and the sauce is creamy. (If it seems too thick, you can add more beer.) Stir in the cayenne and salt. Taste and adjust the seasonings, if you like.
Serve immediately over toast or with tortilla chips.
SAN ANTONIO CHILE CON QUESO
The first recipe published in Texas with the name “chile con queso” appeared in the early 1920s in the Woman’s Club Cook Book of Tested and Tried Recipes published by the San Antonio Woman’s Club. The chiles in this version are not fresh and green but instead are spoonfuls of dried red cayenne and paprika. Another quirk is that instead of being served with tortilla chips,