- Full Title: Danielle Walker’s Eat What You Love: Everyday Comfort Food You Crave; Gluten-Free, Dairy-Free, and Paleo Recipes
- Autor: Danielle Walker
- Print Length: 336 pages
- Publisher: Ten Speed Press; 1 edition
- Publication Date: December 4, 2018
- Language: English
- ISBN-10: 1607749440
- ISBN-13: 978-1607749448
- Download File Format | Size: epub | 412,88 Mb
David Wolfman and Marlene Finn
To Delores Wolfman, my late mother, to Laura Marjorie Finn, Marlene’s mother, and to everyone out there in TV land who watches my show!
Copyright © 2017 David Wolfman and Marlene Finn
All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced, stored in a retrieval system or transmitted, in any form or by any means, without prior permission of the publisher or, in the case of photocopying or other reprographic copying, a licence from Access Copyright, www.accesscopyright.ca, 1-800-893-5777, [email protected]
Douglas and McIntyre (2013) Ltd.
P.O. Box 219, Madeira Park, BC, V0N 2H0
Edited by Cheryl Cohen
Indexed by Nicola Goshulak
Cover design by Anna Comfort O’Keeffe and Mauve Pagé
Text design by Mauve Pagé
Printed and bound in Canada
Douglas and McIntyre (2013) Ltd. acknowledges the support of the Canada Council for the Arts, which last year invested $153 million to bring the arts to Canadians throughout the country. We also gratefully acknowledge financial support from the Government of Canada and from the Province of British Columbia through the BC Arts Council and the Book Publishing Tax Credit.
Library and Archives Canada Cataloguing in Publication
Wolfman, David, author
Cooking with the Wolfman : Indigenous fusion / David Wolfman and Marlene Finn.
Issued in print and electronic formats.
ISBN 978-1-77162-163-2 (softcover).
ISBN 978-1-77162-164-9 (HTML)
1. Indian cooking. 2. Cookbooks. I. Finn, Marlene (Marlene Esther), author II. Title.
TX715.6.W599 2017 641.59’297 C2017-904452-4
Front cover: Photo by Michael Kohn
Photos by Michael Kohn: pages ii, 46, 53, 75, 88, 98, 105, 111, 127, 130, 150, 165, 179, 195, 219, 233, 238, 242, 263, 274
Stock photos: page 7, Adobe Stock/kamchatka – stock.adobe.com; page 16, Adobe Stock/zaziedanslacuisine – stock.adobe.com; page 20, Adobe Stock/ehaurylik – stock.adobe.com; page 22, Adobe Stock/udra11 – stock.adobe.com; page 33, Elenathewise/Thinkstock; page 42, bottom left, Adobe Stock/Brent Hofacker – stock.adobe.com; page 42, top right, William Felker/Unsplash; page 42, bottom right, Adobe Stock/emperorcosar – stock.adobe.com; page 47, HandmadePictures/Thinkstock; page 93, top left, Adobe Stock/Dmitry Naumov – stock.adobe.com; page 93, top centre, YelenaYemchuk/Thinkstock; page 93, second from bottom, centre (turnips), Zoonar RF/Thinkstock; page 93, bottom left, ferlistockphoto/Thinkstock; page 93, bottom centre, piyaset/Thinkstock; page 93, bottom right, OksanaKiian/Thinkstock; page 116, second from top, left (mushrooms), lensblur/Thinkstock; page 116, top right, jpacker10/Thinkstock; second from bottom, right (petroglyphs), Adobe Stock/sylviaadams – stock.adobe.com; page 131, Elenathewise/Thinkstock; page 152, bottom left, Adobe Stock/cenk unver – stock.adobe.com; page 154, Adobe Stock/Ingvar – stock.adobe.com; page 155, ChrisBoswell/Thinkstock; page 166, Anest/Thinkstock; page 171, top right, bhofack2/Thinkstock; page 180, HandmadePictures/Thinkstock; page 189, top left, 411Shirley/Thinkstock; page 209, Yingko/Thinkstock; page 210, top centre, Ingram Publishing/Thinkstock; page 210, top right, bhofack2/Thinkstock; page 210, middle left (fiddleheads), bhofack2/Thinkstock; page 210, second from top, right (flowers), seven75/Thinkstock; page 210, second from bottom, right (mushrooms), Ingram Publishing/Thinkstock; page 229, top right, YelenaYemchuk/Thinkstock; page 229, middle left, moodboard/Thinkstock; page 229, middle right, Tom Brakefield/Thinkstock; page 229, bottom right, Krugloff/Thinkstock; page 230, barmalini/Thinkstock; page 244, top left, Wavebreakmedia Ltd/Thinkstock; page 244, top right, Edalin/Thinkstock; page 244, bottom left, Purestock/Thinkstock; page 244, bottom right, Adobe Stock/valleyboi63 – stock.adobe.com; page 251, Anna Comfort O’Keeffe; page 264, Takuya Aono/Thinkstock
All other photos by David Wolfman and Marlene Finn
I am a huge fan of preparing dishes with a rich history that’s rooted in our past. Through food, we have the ability to strengthen community bonds and celebrate our differences. I am encouraged by Chef David and Marlene’s goal of inspiring people to discover ways to prepare dishes that highlight the exciting richness of flavours that are unique to Canada’s history and Indigenous cuisine.
As I flip through the amazing array of easy-to-follow recipes, there are several incredible must-try dishes that have caught my eye. I am excited to make not only traditional Indigenous recipes like bannock but also some of the creative chef-inspired modern dishes like the Urban Indian Ice Cream. How delicious doe
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n, but that was about it.
Russell and I purchased the necessary equipment at the local home brew shop, which Erik writes about in the chapter on extract brewing. One great thing about brewing your own beer is that as you get more sophisticated with your brewing technique, most of what you buy can still be used with the new equipment. The owner of the brewing supply store was somewhat helpful by making kits and pointing us in the rightdirection, but beers back then were limited to English Bitter or Stout. We had limited access to yeast strains as well and many were dry, which was further limiting.
It was a few years before I knew that breweries like Ninkasi give yeast strains to home brewers in the community. There were no “clone recipes” yet to try to recreate your favorite beers and there were few craft breweries for role models. Red Hook, Widmer, Full Sail, Sierra Nevada, and Portland Brewing made most of the bottles you could find and Deschutes was only a draft beer back then. McMenamin’s High Street Brewery was around when I arrived in Eugene but Steelhead, where I would later work, was not open until 1991. We would try them all and any imports we could find. Imports were easier to find than local breweries, leading to my love of European styles as much as my NW IPAs.
Brewing was a fun hobby for friends to figure stuff out on our own and share the results. Snowboarding, hiking, gardening, cooking, going to concerts, being a Sociology geek, and playing Dungeons and Dragons were hobbies that I gave equal attention to, in addition to a full course load of college classes and a couple of jobs. Despite that schedule, I found the time to brew some beer.
Before the Craft Beer Movement, our understanding of beer was that it was made by big U.S. companies and I thought most of the Imports must be made by big companies as well. Protestant-inspired reform and prohibition isolated U.S. citizens away from our past and connection to beer. In 1887, the U.S. had 4,131 breweries—its all time high. As competition and a consumer tendency shifted towards lighter European Lager styles, U.S. breweries dropped to around 1,000 breweries before the Prohibition era started in 1920. When Prohibition ended in 1933, there were upwards of 750 breweries that shrank to 400 in the early 50s and declined further to around 80 in the 80s, as breweries were competitively put out of business or absorbed into larger companies. By this point, every brewery was producing a similar light lager beer that is still the predominant beer in the U.S.
The 20th century was a period of forgetting deep-rooted, cultural connection to a variety of beers. It wasn’t until Jimmy Carter legalized home brewing in 1978, and courageous new brewers opened breweries, that we started to reconnect to our past connection with beer. Humans learn quickly and—now with the technology to share and transmit endless amounts of beer-related information—we have a deeper understanding of our relationship with beer, providing us with a promising future. You can develop and perfect the recipes in this book until your heart is content.
Humans have likely been making beer since about 9500 BC, when Neolithic folks were starting to grow cereal grains. Archeologists found chemical evidence of a grain-based beer dating back to around 3500 BC in the Zargos Mountains of Western Iran. Early Sumerians were common in this area as it was on the Silk Road Trade Route. Cereal grains would be planted, and the nomadic tribes would keep moving to hunt and gather and look for water, returning to harvest the crops. As time went by, these early brewers saw that brewing beer made water potable because any beverage with more than 2% alcohol will not allow pathogens to grow. Brewing retrieved more nutrients from the grains harvested, as the fermentation process converts starches into usable sugars while also allowing us to access the vitamins in the beer grains, making beer a staple food for humanity.
So there you have it: BEER IS FOOD!
As time passed, and beer became more important to the nomadic tribes, they realized that carrying around beer ingredients was labor intensive, so some tribes started to settle in areas and grow grains to make bread and beer. The Sumerians were one of the first of these nomadic-turned-agricultural tribes and they settled about 80 miles south of Bagdad in what is now Iraq. They made beer and worshiped the Goddess Ninkasi for the miracle of fermentation. These brewers acted as a cultural hub to early civilization. As different groups of people started settling in the same area, the need for a better way to communicate became necessary and the early Sumerians created written language through Cuneiform characters on clay tablets. With this added tool of communication they created schools, laws, and taxes. Beer became an early form of trade. In the Sumerian outpost of Elba around 2500 B
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avor and seasonings that Prudhomme put into play. I immediately started adding dishes from the book to the menu at the deli. Looking back, there was something funny about serving New Orleans–style Cajun food in a Jewish-style delicatessen. Fortunately for me, Tom didn’t care. The disconnect is apparent now, but at the time, nothing seemed strange about putting kishke, knishes, and corned beef sandwiches alongside jambalaya, blackened chicken, and gumbo.
This was in the mid-1980s, when Prudhomme was taking his restaurant, K-Paul’s, on the road. When he came to Manhattan, I knew that I had to eat his food. I grabbed a buddy of mine, drove up to New York, stood in line for three hours, and, at long last, was given the chance to eat chef Paul’s food. I was blown away. After the meal, Prudhomme graciously spent time with me, speaking at length about the techniques that made his approach unique. It was a heady experience, a kid from Jersey who cooked Cajun out of a Jewish deli in Edison talking to chef Paul Prudhomme, the king of New Orleans kitchens, about his philosophy on cooking.
K-Paul’s was in town for six weeks. Of course, I went back. The line was long, but my patience was rewarded with another incredible meal. Prudhomme was the talk of New York, and I had heard that he occasionally let cooks train at K-Paul’s, so when he made the inevitable visit to our table, I asked him about his “stage,” a culinary internship program. Paul told me that they weren’t bringing anyone on just then, but to call him on Friday and he would let me know. At noon on that Friday, and every other Friday for months, I would go into the office at the deli and call Paul Prudhomme. Finally, after nearly six months, I called one Friday and Paul said, “Come on down to New Orleans and cook.”
During my two months at K-Paul’s on Chartres Street in the French Quarter, I experienced a professional kitchen and the camaraderie that exists among chefs for the first time. Every single cook in that kitchen shared an enthusiasm, passion, and respect for food.
I felt as if I had received years’ worth of experience in that short New Orleans stay (you need only look at the contents of this book to see how Prudhomme’s influence has carried me forward). When my stage ended, I took that new knowledge and headed back north to cook at the Four Seasons in Manhattan. That’s where I met Executive Chef Seppi Renggli, one of my most important mentors. Seppi taught me that it was okay to be unconventional, and that a chef did not need to stick to a single cuisine. On the same menu, he would offer an Indonesian curry alongside veal Pozharsky—and it worked. Some of my most interesting ideas about food, as well as my basic kitchen philosophy of being open and adventurous, of not being bound by a single cuisine, of letting varied styles intermingle on the menu, come from my days working with Seppi at the Four Seasons.
After the Four Seasons, I began an unsettled period in my career, moving from kitchen to kitchen, my peregrinations landing me in such places as Le Cirque, and Coco Pazzo in Manhattan, Gitane in New Jersey, finally ending up at a resort on the island of Saint Lucia in the West Indies. After six months, the authorities found out I didn’t have my work papers and kicked me off the island. Before I left I made a phone call. In my waning days at the Four Seasons, Seppi had told me that if I got the chance I should really cook with Wolfgang Puck. So before my unceremonious deportation, I rang up Wolfgang and asked him for a job.
My first of three tours in the Postrio kitchen was in 1989, the year it opened and took the San Francisco restaurant scene by storm. It’s sort of amazing to think that Wolfgang has now been at the forefront of American cooking for 40 years, but I learned why during my first stint at Postrio. Like Seppi, Wolfgang had a sense of adventure and whimsy, but where Seppi’s adventurousness appeared on the plate, Wolfgang’s was not only on the plate, but also the table and the chair and the walls … he changed the paradigm of what fine dining could be. It wasn’t just the food, it was the whole atmosphere and experience. Wolfgang also taught Doug, Steven, and me that focusing on the customer will always pay off. I’ll never forget walking through the lobby of the Prescott Hotel (where Postrio was housed) with Wolfgang one Saturday night. There was an older couple from Texas at the concierge desk lamenting the fact that Postrio was the one place they just had to eat at in San Francisco, and they couldn’t get a reservation. It was a Saturday night and there were over 400 on the books, yet Wolfgang walked up to the couple and said, “You want to eat at Postrio, come with me.” He marched them right over to the Host Station and said, “Find this couple a table.” I was just as surprised as those Texans.
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le basting it every hour with the seasoning water.
Flip the brisket and smoke it for 10 h then brush it with the barbecue sauce and smoke it for another 1 h 30 min.
Allow the brisket to rest for 30 min then serve it and enjoy.
Apple Cider Vinegar Sauce
(ready in about 5 min | Servings 8)
• 1 ½ cups of water
• 3 ½ tablespoons of kosher salt
• 6 dry allspice berries
• ½ bay leaf
• 1 tablespoon of sugar
• 1 ½ cups of apple cider
• 1 tablespoon of black pepper
• ½ tablespoon of dry thyme
• ½ teaspoon of dry garlic, minced
Combine all the ingredients with apple cider vinegar in a large bowl and stir them.
Use the sauce right away and enjoy.
Smoked Turkey With Orange Juice
(ready in about 4 to 6 h | Servings 6)
• 1 onion, quartered
• 1 cup orange juice
• 2 tablespoons black pepper
• 2 tablespoons salt
• 5 to 7 pounds turkey breasts
Rinse the breast and pat it dry then season it with black pepper and salt then place the onion and its cavity and let it set for 45 min.
Heat the grill until it reaches 450 F.
Place the turkey in it and smoke it for 4 to 6 h while basting it with orange juice every 45 min.
Once the time is up, serve them warm with the blackberries glazed and enjoy.
Cranberry Jam Pork Chops
(ready in about 12 to 24 h | Servings 6)
• 1 recipe of cranberry jam
• 1 recipe of apple thyme brine
• 6 pork chops
Pour the brine into a zip lock bag with the pork chops and refrigerate them for 12 h.
Build a fire in the grill.
Once the grill reaches 450 F, place the chops in it on the dry side then cook them for 8 min on each side on direct heat.
Baste the chops with the ½ cup of the cranberry jam in the last 3 min.
Serve the chops with the rest of the sauce and enjoy.
Delicious Pork Loin
(ready in about 2 h 15 min | Servings 10 to 16)
• 1 Top loin roast, boneless
• 1 cup barbecue sauce
• 1 teaspoon of olive
• ½ teaspoon coriander
• 1 ½ teaspoons salt
• 1 teaspoon black pepper
• 2 teaspoon brown sugar
• ½ teaspoon chili powder
• 2 teaspoons paprika
Build the fire on one side of the smoker leaving the other side empty.
Mix the rub ingredients in a mixing bowl and set them aside.
Brush the pork loin with olive oil then massage to it the rub.
Once smoker reaches 400 F, place the loin in it in the empty side then cook it for 10 min on each side on direct heat.
Transfer the loin onto the empty side and cover the grill then cook it got 70 to 90 min.
Baste the loin with the sauce in the last 10 min then allow it to rest for 10 min before serving.
Finely Smoked Meatloaf
(ready in about 4 h 15 min | Servings 6)
• 1 onion, chopped
• 2 pounds beef, cut
• 1 cup breadcrumbs
• 2 eggs, beaten
• ¼ cup of milk
• 1 cup and ¾ cup of ketchup
• ¼ cup of brown sugar
• ½ cup of barbecue sauce
• 2 cloves of garlic, minced
• ½ red bell pepper, chopped
Combine all the ingredients in a container and mix them.
Form the mix into a loaf then place it in an aluminum pan.
Preheat the smoker on 250 F.
Smoke it for 4 h and brush it with some ketchup or barbecue sauce in its last 30 min.
Once the time is up, serve it warm and enjoy.
Smoked Cherry Juice Rib
(ready in about 5 h 15 min| Servings 6)
• 2 tablespoons onion powder
• 1 tablespoon chili pepper
• 2 tablespoons salt
• 2 tablespoons black pepper
• 2 tablespoons garlic powder
• 5 pounds ribs
• 2 cups of cherry juice
Combine the rub mix in a small bowl then rub the rib with it.
Wrap the rib with a kitchen twine on every ¾ inches.
Preheat the smoker on 240 F.
Place the prime rib in the smoker and smoke it for 2 h to 5 h while spraying it with some cherry juice every hour.
Once the time is up, allow it to rest for 30 min wrapped in foil then serve it and enjoy.
Dijon Smoked Chicken Wings
(ready in about 45 min | Servings 8 to 12)
• 2 teaspoons paprika
• 2 teaspoons garlic powder
• 2 tablespoons salt
• ¼ cup of Worcestershire sauce
• ¼ cup of brown sugar
• 2 tablespoons of Dijon mustard
• 4 teaspoons black pepper
• ½ teaspoon of ground ginger
• 14 chicken wings
Mix all the ingredients for the marinade then pour it in a resealable bag with wings and refrigerate it for four h.
Build a fire on one side of the smoker leaving the other side empty.
Once the co
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ain (all-purpose) flour, plus a little for resting and rolling
1 tsp salt
1 tsp baking powder
250g/9oz/generous 1 cup softened butter + 2 tsp extra
3 eggs + 1 egg yolk
250g/9oz/1 cup thick plain yogurt
FOR THE FILLING
2 small bunches of spinach, chopped
1 fat bunch of spring onions (scallions), chopped
100g/3½oz/½ cup dried apricots, chopped
1½ x 400g/14oz cans chickpeas, drained (keep the rest for a salad)
200g/7oz sulguni (that’s Georgian cheese to you) or other soft feta-ish cheese
2 tsp sumac
1 tbsp dried dill
1 tsp ground black pepper
To make the dough, sift the dry ingredients together in a bowl and chop the 250g/9oz/generous 1 cup of butter into the mixture, mixing firstly with a wooden spoon and then with your hands. Whisk the eggs and yogurt and stir them into the dough until it all comes together. Knead briefly before shaping into a ball, rolling in flour, covering with clingfilm and allowing it to rest somewhere warm for an hour.
In the meantime, to the filling… just squidge all the filling ingredients together and set aside until you are ready to cook.
After an hour, preheat the oven to 200°C/400°F/Gas mark 6. Place the rested dough on a floury board and divide it into 6 even balls. Flatten each dough ball and roll them out into 24cm/9½in or so discs. Spoon one-sixth of the filling into the middle of the first disc, leaving at least 6cm/2½in of dough visible all round. Fold this rim up into the middle and press the dough together, thus sealing the kubdari with the filling inside. Press down gently so that the bread resembles a small Frisbee and place on an oiled, floured baking sheet before repeating the exercise with the rest of the dough and filling.
Melt the remaining knob of butter and beat it with the egg yolk before using it to glaze your 6 stuffed loaves.
Bake for around 20 minutes, or until a shiny golden brown. Serve hot with pickles and baskets of fresh herbs, or cold as a really cracking picnic number.
CARAWAY SPICED AFGHAN NA’AN
Across most of Afghanistan bread is pretty much all homemade. This has as much to do with geography as economics: the wild terrain means that a quick pop to the ‘supermarket’ could take up to a day. Bread is usually made from a sourdough starter retained from the previous day, and is almost always wholemeal. Loaves are baked in a tandoor, or clay oven: large or remote homes will usually have their own oven, but most villages have communal ones (nan-waee) where bread can be baked for just a few afghani (yes, the currency of Afghanistan is the afghani).
I’m prepared to bet that even the most hipster dudes among you out there don’t actually have a tandoor oven in your back garden, but this bread cooks perfectly in a hot domestic oven.
MAKES 3 SMALL LOAVES
1 sachet (7g/¼oz) dried yeast
2 tsp sugar
325ml/11oz/scant 1½ cups warm water
500g/1lb 2oz/4 cups chapati flour (or atta)*
1 tsp salt
1 tbsp vegetable oil
2½ tbsp caraway seeds (or use poppy, or nigella seeds, or a mixture)
Sprinkle the yeast and sugar on to the warm water and leave for 15 minutes while the yeast gets busy.
Mix the dry ingredients in a bowl, then slowly add the wet yeast mixture. Stir well with a wooden spoon, then add the oil and half of the caraway seeds and start kneading the dough with your hands. After 5 minutes, roll the dough into a ball, cover with a damp cloth and leave somewhere warm to rise for around an hour, or it has doubled in size.
Preheat the oven to 220°C/425°F/Gas mark 7, and pop 1–2 foil-lined baking sheets in to warm up.
Now divide your dough into 3 balls, and punch them down into oval shapes of around 2cm/¾in thickness. Use the handle of a teaspoon to mark out some grooves (traditionally a male baker uses a knife for this, while a lady baker forges rougher grooves with her fingers – but no, I have no idea why), and sprinkle the rest of the seeds over the loaves. Remove the hot baking sheet/s from the oven and slide the na’an on to them. Bake for around 10–12 minutes, or until the bread is golden and firm.
This bread doesn’t keep very well and is best eaten while still warm. If you do want to use it the next day, just wet it a little before heating it through in the oven.
This isn’t difficult to find, but you can always substitute a really finely ground wholemeal flour.
HELEN SABERI’S AFGHAN POTATO PIE
Fried potato pies – this has to be the ultimate Afghan comfort food, especially welcome during the long shivery winter. They are traditionally enjoyed hot, but add a garlicky yogurt sauce (see bonus recipe below) and they’ll stand up as picnic or buffet fare as well. Boulanee come in two flavours: the recipe for the leek variety is to be found in my earlier book, Veggiestan.
This is the lovely Helen Saberi
e most powerful taste compared with the white variety, but as with all the basic ceviche ingredients, feel free to deviate from the traditional. In addition to red onion, many of this book’s recipes include shallots, green onions, or chives.
The most common herb used in ceviche is cilantro, although you will also find Peruvian huacatay, a black mint, or culantro, a robust, flat-leafed cilantro. Although the herbs used in ceviche vary somewhat by country, cilantro or one of its varieties is the most common for both its taste and its intoxicating fragrance. Herbs supplement the fresh-tasting nature of ceviche while adding another dimension of flavor. Just about any herb—oregano, parsley, basil, or mint—will work. But always use fresh herbs, never the dried variety.
With the freshness of herbs and citrus and the pungency of onion, ceviche needs a little heat to balance its composition, hence the chile peppers at its core. From fiery Scotch bonnets to mild jalapeños and even sweet bells, peppers add a surprise kick that enlivens ceviche’s silky seafood and clean citrus flavors and textures. The more traditional aji, or pepper, additions include amarillo, rocoto, panca, and chile limo, a tiny red pepper from Peru with a citrusy overtone. But since these aren’t readily available in American groceries, any choice from the chile world will work just fine, including jalapeños. One of my favorite ways to add jalapeños to ceviche is to pickle them first, marinating the thin red and green pepper slices with vinegar, sugar, and salt. The pickling tames the heat of the peppers and produces a condiment that is terrific on ceviche or just about anything. I use these in many of my ceviche recipes.
GARNISHES AND SIDE DISHES
Although not one of the five core ingredients, garnishes are a critical part of eating ceviches. Many garnishes, such as popcorn and corn nuts, act to cleanse the palate, cutting through the acid of the ceviche and readying the mouth for another bite of new flavor. Other garnishes, such as ears of mote (giant Peruvian white corn) or roasted camote (sweet potato), add substance and make ceviche a meal in and of itself. Still others, such as coconut milk, sliced avocado, or a drizzle of olive or sesame oil, impart an added level of richness and flavor. I choose appropriate garnishes for each ceviche by using the same theory that I do for constructing the ceviche recipe itself: choose pairings that offer texture, taste, and color contrasts. Smooth, creamy-white scallops finished with a crispy note of crumbled bacon, and silky, coral-colored sea urchin topped with delicately crunchy carrots and purple shallots are both perfect marriages of flavors and textures.
Side dishes work in a similar way, helping to enliven and extend lighter ceviche preparations while tempering the complexity of more robust recipes. I’ve dedicated an entire chapter to sides that complement the many ceviches in this book. An intricate ceviche, like the Paella Ceviche full of shellfish and saffron, works perfectly as its own meal with a simple side of grilled corn, while the more streamlined flavors of the Grouper with Opal Basil pair better with Papas Huancaina, Yukon Gold potatoes covered with a creamy cheese sauce rich with eggs and milk. Just as a piece of cheese is a perfect accompaniment to a glass of wine, rich side dishes are often an ideal balance to ceviche’s crisp, pure flavors.
ceviche safety: the four commandments
One of the challenges I knew I would face in publishing this book was overcoming consumer concern about the safety of eating homemade ceviche. With the current widespread appeal of sushi, most of us who enjoy raw seafood preparations have become fairly comfortable eating them in our local restaurants. We’ve learned how to choose establishments that we can trust, and the associated health risks usually don’t warrant so much as an afterthought. However, preparing ceviche in the home can be quite different than preparing it in a professional kitchen and may make even the most experienced home cooks a bit guarded. Following are a few tips to help ensure top-quality purchasing and safe handling in your kitchen, so you can confidently enjoy the ceviches in this book. These recommendations mirror many of those supported by the Food and Drug Administration.
KNOW YOUR FISHMONGER
Just as you wouldn’t order carry-out sushi from a restaurant you hadn’t seen, don’t purchase fresh seafood without carefully looking around at your fishmonger’s facilities and employees. Mostly, just be aware and use your common sense. Look for:
• Clean employees wearing and changing disposable gloves for each raw seafood purchase.
• Seafood displayed over plentiful fresh ice. Avoid prepackaged fish, as packaging makes it difficult to determine its freshness and whether it’s been previously frozen.
• A well-maintained facility that looks a