[download good books] Best Food Writing 2015 by Holly Hughes, 0738218642

  • Full Title : Best Food Writing 2015
  • Autor: Holly Hughes
  • Print Length: 320 pages
  • Publisher: Da Capo Lifelong Books; 2015 ed. edition
  • Publication Date: October 20, 2015
  • Language: English
  • ISBN-10: 0738218642
  • ISBN-13: 978-0738218649
  • Download File Format: pdf
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Anthony Bourdain, John T. Edge, Jonathan Gold, Francis Lam, Ruth Reichl, Calvin Trillin, Alice Waters. These are just some of the celebrated writers and foodies whose work has appeared in Best Food Writing over the past fifteen years. Whether written by an established journalist or an up-and-coming blogger, the essays offered in each edition represent the cream of that year’s crop in food writing. And 2015 promises to uphold the same high standards with a dynamic mix of writers offering provocative journalism, intriguing profiles, moving memoir, and more.


Editorial Reviews


Praise for Best Food Writing 2015

San Francisco Book Review
“[C]ontains everything a food (and perhaps a non-foodie) might want to read…A top-notch collection, Hughes brings together a wonderful mix that is sure to please the foodie in all of us.”

Atlanta Journal Constitution, 11/25/15
“Curating the best in culinary prose from the past year this collection, like the 15 editions that came before it, captures the wide-ranging culinary conversation.”

Tampa Bay Times, 12/7/15
“This is like a chocolate sampler every year, a potpourri of some of the smartest food writing from the gambit of publications. This year’s is especially wonderful, with a number of essays that read like science fiction.”

Taste for Life, December 2015
Best Food Writing 2015…contains some of this year's most intriguing pieces from the world of culinary prose. Holly Hughes, former executive editor of Fodor's travel publications, has curated a fantastic collection of essays covering everything from gourmet dining experiences to culinary traditions to the simple, handmade pleasures of home cooking. Readers will be drawn in…there's something for everyone in this year's edition.”

About the Author

Holly Hughes, former executive editor of Fodor’s travel publications, is the author of Frommer’s 500 Places for Food and Wine Lovers. She lives with her family in New York City.




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lifies outstanding Midwest gardening. Opposite: No stereotypes here. Bedazzle any garden with unique plant materials such as these succulent jewels.

growing the MIDWEST garden


Timber Press

Portland • London

Copyright © 2015 by Ed Lyon. All rights reserved.

Published in 2015 by Timber Press, Inc.

Photography credits appear on page 300. Map on page 25 ©Benchmark Maps

Cover image photographed at The Flower Factory, Stoughton, Wisconsin, one of the Midwest’s finest perennial nurseries.

The Haseltine Building

133 S.W. Second Avenue, Suite 450

Portland, Oregon 97204-3527


Book design by Jane Jeszeck/www.jigsawseattle.com

Library of Congress Cataloging-in-Publication Data

ISBN 13: 978-1-60469-698-1

Lyon, Ed, 1957- author.

Growing the Midwest garden/Ed Lyon.—First edition.

pages cm

Includes index.

ISBN 978-1-60469-495-6 — ISBN 978-1-60469-466-6 1. Gardening—Middle West.

I. Title.

SB453.2.M53L96 2015



To Darrell (Dylan) Wayne Hart, whose love, respect, and support are the reasons for any successes I may achieve.

‘Autumn Cascade’, a weeping cultivar of native black tupelo, at her autumn finest.





Acknowledging Your Roots: Gardening In The Midwest

The Midwest: A Breakdown

Locality and Microclimate

The Allure of Zone

Exceptions to the Rules

Overcoming Obstacles: Cultural Considerations

It Starts with the Earth

Low-Impact Gardening


Scourges of the Garden


More than Prairie Gardens: Innovative Garden Design

Develop a Plan

The Design Elements

Additional Hints, Tricks, and Guiding Principles

From Abelia to Yucca: A Midwest Plant Palette


Recommended Reading

Metric Conversions

Photography Credits



Gardens should exude joy, which Mexican hat fully expresses.

IN A WORLD that is increasingly global, gardening remains a local endeavor. The concept of the right plant for the right place is one of the tenets of gardening, so understanding the unique traits of your location, such as soil, weather, hardiness zone, and natural ecosystems is vital to successful gardening. At the heart of Ed Lyon’s Growing the Midwest Garden are the experiences of a real gardener who has spent a lifetime honing his knowledge and craft, while never forgetting that where you live determines how you garden.

Ed has compiled an informative and experiential tome that will be invaluable to regional gardeners at all levels of accomplishment, from the nascent to the experienced. He boils down location information into the various ecotypes within the Midwest so that gardeners can more easily understand where they live and how that impacts the way they garden. Ed keeps the tone light, even humorous, when explaining climate zones, soils, fertilizing, watering, and even demystifies some common garden myths along the way. Although this is not a design book, Ed deftly covers common garden design elements, too. In the end, what makes this book so valuable is that Ed Lyon is a raconteur of gardening wisdom and experience. His successes and failures will ring true to longtime gardeners while bolstering the confidence of those just starting out.

For those of you who haven’t had the pleasure of meeting Ed, you’ll get to know him as you read this book because he writes like he talks, with an easy, friendly, and helpful demeanor. He’s amassed a wealth of knowledge and experience for gardeners to tap into. After all, who better to advise you on Midwestern gardening than a Midwestern gardener—in this case, we’ll forgive Ed his Mid-Atlantic upbringing!

As a longtime proponent of regional plant trials and a native Midwesterner, I especially appreciate the local and regional tenor of the book. In our global economy, plants come to us from everywhere but are often untested widely. Regional trials help gardeners make informed decisions on the best plants for their area. Ed has compiled an impressive list of tried-and-true garden plants plus many more uncommon plants that will entice gardeners to explore and push the boundaries. He has melded a compendium of good garden plants with an encyclopedia of gardening practices specifically tailored to the Midwest. Simply put, I’ve waited a long time for this book.





I am a horticulturalist, but I am also a gardener with dirt under my nails.

HORTICULTURE IS MY SECOND career. When I lost my agribusiness job in the 1990s, like many people at that time, I realized it might be a good time to return to college for a new career. I researched a number of fields and realized that what I had always considered a ho
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Party Parma ham bundles

Pumpkin and goat’s cheese lasagne

Triple cheese and onion strata


Chestnut chocolate pots

Chocolate peanut-butter cups

Christmas chocolate biscuits

Christmas chocolate pudding with hot chocolate sauce

Christmas puddini bonbons

Christmas rocky road

Christmas-spiced chocolate cake

Cranberry and white chocolate cookies

Girdlebuster pie

Hot chocolate-chestnut sauce

Hot schnocolate (drink)

Incredibly easy chocolate fruit cake

Tiramisu layer cake

Yule log

Christmas Lunch

Allspice gravy

Australian Christmas pudding with hot chocolate-chestnut sauce

Bacon-wrapped chipolatas

Beetroot orzotto

Butternut orzotto

Chestnut stuffing

Chocolate pudding with hot chocolate sauce

Christmas sprouts

Ed’s victorious turkey hash

Eggnog cream

Gingerbread stuffing

Gingery tomato sauce

Hot chocolate-chestnut sauce

Italian roast potatoes with garlic and thyme

Light goose gravy

Maple-roast parsnips

My mother’s bread sauce

Panettone and Italian sausage stuffing

Panettone pudding

Perfect roast potatoes

Port and Stilton gravy

Quick cassoulet

Redder than red cranberry sauce

Roast goose with pear and cranberry stuffing

Roast rib of beef with port and Stilton gravy

Roast stuffed pumpkin with gingery tomato sauce

Rolled stuffed loin of pork with rubied gravy

Rubied gravy

Spiced and superjuicy roast turkey with allspice gravy

Turkey and glass noodle salad

Turkey pilaff with pomegranate and dill

Ultimate Christmas pudding with eggnog cream

Wild rice, turkey, cranberry and pecan salad

Chutneys, pickles and jellies

Beetroot and ginger chutney

Chilli jam

Christmas chutney

Cranberry and apple chutney

Olives ‘n’ pickled things

Prosecco and pomegranate jelly

Rich fruit chutney


Australian Christmas pudding with hot chocolate-chestnut sauce

Boozy British trifle

Chestnut chocolate pots

Chocolate pudding with hot chocolate sauce

Christmas puddini bonbons

Christmas-spiced chocolate cake

Eggnog syllabub

Girdlebuster pie

Gleaming maple cheesecake

Panettone pudding

Pecan-plus pie

Prodigious pavlova

Prosecco and pomegranate jelly

Pumpkin pancakes with sticky maple pecans

Quickly scaled Mont Blancs

Rhubarb and strawberry compote

Spruced-up vanilla cake

Tiramisu layer cake

Ultimate Christmas pudding with eggnog cream

Vanilla sugar

Yule log

Drinks and cocktails

Amaretto sour

Black Forest martini

Blissful blueberry

Christmas Fizz

Cornish champagne cocktail

Espresso martini

Hot honeyed vodka

Hot schnocolate

Lychee fizz




Moscow mule

Mulled Cider


Pomegranate martini


Santa’s little helper

Seasonal breeze

Tuscan champagne cocktail

Vin Chaud (mulled wine)

Winter-spiced vodka

Xmas xinger

Yule mule

Fish and seafood

Crab crostini

Parsleyed fish gratin

Smoked salmon soda breads

Wasabi crab cakes

Fruit and dried fruit

Antioxidant fruit salad

Apple and onion gravy

Australian Christmas pudding with hot chocolate-chestnut sauce

Christmas Chutney

Cranberry, almond and honey granola

Cranberry and apple chutney

Cranberry and white chocolate cookies

Cranberry-studded mincemeat

Dried cherries in cherry brandy

Glossy fruit and nut topping

Golden sultanas in Grand Marnier

Gorgeously golden fruit cake

Honeyed fig vinegar

Incredibly easy chocolate fruit cake

Mixed fruits in Pedro Ximénez

Prodigious pavlova

Rhubarb and strawberry compote

Rich fruit chutney

Scarlet-speckled loaf cake

Spiced and superjuicy roast turkey with allspice gravy

Traditional Christmas cake


Lamb and date tagine

Nuts and pulses

Chestnut chocolate pots

Chestnut soup with bacon crumbles

Chestnut stuffing

Christmas rocky road

Christmas sprouts

Cranberry, almond and honey granola

Hot chocolate-chestnut sauce


Peanut brittle with art and soul

Pecan-plus pie

Quick Cassoulet

Seasonally spiced nuts

Sticky maple pecans

Wild rice, turkey, cranberry and pecan salad


Aromatic Christmas ham

Bacon-wrapped chipolatas

Bourbon-glazed ribs

Bourbon-glazed sausages

Choc chip chilli

Cranberry and soy glazed cocktail sausages

Cuban cure black bean soup

Drunken devils on horseback

Effortless home-cured pork

Ginger-glazed ham

Pancetta Brussles sprouts

Panettone and Italian sausage stuffing

Party parma ham bundles

Piselli con panna e pancetta

Rolled stuffed loin of pork with rubied gravy

Sausagemeat-bosomed turkey

Spinach and bacon salad


Chicken Soup

Ed’s victorious turkey hash


Light goose gravy

Party poussins

Quick cassoulet

Roast goose with pear and cranberr
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meal, so much so that a common greeting in Korean for “How are you?” is “Have you eaten (a bowl of) rice?”

Bansang, the basic table or meal (sang meaning “table”) consists of rice (bap), soup (guk or tang), sauce (gochujang or soy sauce), a stew or casserole (jjigae), and kimchi. The number of banchan served varies and historically reflected the affluence of those at the table; less affluent people or “commoners” would eat three to five additional banchan to make a three- or five-cheop bansang, while the nobles would eat nine additional banchan. The table setting for the king is called surasang: sura referring to “king’s rice,” and the sang (table) to the king’s meal, which includes up to thirty-four different kinds of banchan or side dishes.

The Korean Pantry and Other Key Ingredients

Here is a list of some basic ingredients to get you started on your Korean cooking adventure. For more on these and other ingredients not listed below, please see the glossary (page 243).

Asian pear/Korean pear




Dried anchovies (myeolchi)

Dumpling wrappers


Fish sauce





Green onions

Kelp (dashima)






Rice cakes (ddeok)

Rice flour

Rice vinegar or cider vinegar


Sesame oil

Sesame seeds, white and black

Salted shrimp (saeu-jeot)


Soy sauce

Chapter 1. Essential Sauces and Condiments

Gochujang Vinaigrette (Cho-gochujang)


Emergency Ssamjang

Soy-Vinegar Dipping Sauce (Cho-ganjang)

Gochujang Sour Cream

Salted Shrimp Lemon Aioli

Anchovy-Perilla Anchoiade

Miso Crema

Everyday Korean All-Purpose Sauce (Yangnyeomjang)

Egg Crepes (Jidan)




This tangy vinegar-spiked condiment is the Korean equivalent to ketchup; Koreans love it with everything! It’s a great complement to sashimi and our rice bowl recipes (Rice Bowl with Assorted Vegetable Banchan, page 150; Sashimi Rice Bowl, page 149; and Korean-Style Poké, page 147). Add some to your favorite BBQ sauce, brush on grilled chicken, stir into a traditional vinaigrette, use as a vegetable dipping sauce, drizzle over eggs, or stir into hummus for a gentle kick. It’s also delicious mixed with a little mayo for dipping hot crisp French fries. MAKES ABOUT 1½ CUPS

½ cup gochujang

½ cup rice vinegar or cider vinegar

1½ tablespoons fresh lemon juice

¼ cup granulated sugar

1 tablespoon minced garlic

1 tablespoon minced green onion

1 tablespoon toasted sesame seeds, plus more for garnish

Place all the ingredients in a small bowl; stir well to combine, incorporating the gochujang by pressing with the back of a spoon against the side of the bowl. The consistency should be similar to that of a thick syrup. Can be stored, in an airtight container, in the refrigerator for up to 2 weeks. Gochujang absorbs liquid, so it may thicken over time; simply stir in some warm water or fresh lemon juice to loosen it up.


Ssam is Korean for “wrap” and jang, for “sauce”; ssamjang is a must-have accompaniment if you are making lettuce or perilla wraps for such dishes as Steamed Pork Vegetable Wraps (page 168) or L.A.-Style Kalbi (page 154). It’s also a nice dipping sauce for raw vegetables. As with many sauces, balance is important. Here, we use doenjang, gochujang, and sesame oil in a 4:2:1 ratio. Anything else can be adjusted to your taste. We particularly like throwing in some walnuts, which adds texture and extra nuttiness. MAKES ABOUT 1 CUP

½ cup doenjang or miso

¼ cup gochujang

2 tablespoons sesame oil

1 tablespoon light corn syrup or granulated sugar

1 tablespoon rice vinegar or cider vinegar

1 tablespoon minced garlic

1 tablespoon minced green onion, white parts only

1 tablespoon minced green chile, such as jalapeño or serrano, stems and seeds removed, or walnuts (optional)

Place all the ingredients in a small bowl; stir to combine. Can be stored, in an airtight container, in the refrigerator for up to 2 weeks. Gochujang and doenjang absorb liquid, so the sauce may thicken over time; simply stir in some warm water or fresh lemon juice to thin it out.



If you’re in a pinch and don’t have doenjang and gochujang readily available, you can whip this up. Use in place of ssamjang for everything from lettuce wraps to rice balls. MAKES ABOUT ⅓ CUP

2 tablespoons white or yellow miso

1 tablespoon sriracha or harissa, plus more if needed

1 teaspoon sesame oil

1 teaspoon cider vinegar, rice vinegar, or fresh lemon juice, plus more if needed

Combine the miso, sriracha, and sesame oil in a small bowl. Add the vinegar and whisk. Taste and add more sriracha or vinegar, as needed.

NOTE: Sriracha is a good substitute in recipes tha
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he gardening apartment dweller who would have little or no yard space for a traditional or raised bed garden. It should be noted, however, that container gardening may not produce quite as much as a small traditional, vertical, or raised bed.

So, when creating a vegetable garden today, how do you know what size and type of garden to create? This is easy enough to answer. Since the size of your garden will be limited to your available space, the first thing to do is look at what is available as far as this space. Then you need to look at how much time you have to commit to the garden, as well as what is to be grown.

If you don’t have a lot of time to devote to a garden, a container garden may work best, no matter how much space you have available. If you live in an area where drainage or soil is not good, then raised beds may be the answer (see this page for more information on these topics). Whatever you decide, should you want to change course the following year, you can (provided you have the space). Don’t assume that the garden you choose this year will be what you’re stuck with next.

Another thing to consider is what you want to grow. For example, if you want to sell lots of pumpkins for Halloween, then a little two-by-three-foot garden of pumpkin plantings won’t cut it. But if you need just a few pumpkins for a jack-o’-lantern and some holiday pies, the two-by-three-foot garden would be perfect.

Don’t forget to consider your own physical abilities. If you have a difficult time bending, then a vertical garden could be for you. In a wheelchair? Then consider raised beds with wide, smooth walkways to allow for your chair to operate. You can also adjust the height of your raised bed to whatever is comfortable for you.

There are a number of things to look at when deciding on the type and size of garden. But saying this, don’t make thinking about the size or type of your garden an entire project in itself. Remember, if you make a mistake in this year’s garden, you can correct it next year.

Finding the Right Type of Garden

A garden, be it flowers or food, can be as simple or as complex as you like.

For the purpose of this book, we will use the most basic of styles that were discussed earlier:

• Traditional: With the traditional garden, the plants or seeds are planted into flat, tilled (or untilled) ground. This is what most people picture when they think of a garden. These are the most inexpensive types of gardens to put in.

• Raised bed: Raised beds are exactly what they say: garden beds raised off the ground by inches or by feet. The garden beds are created in wooden frames and are usually built up at least eleven inches off the ground. Raised beds may be in frames built on the ground or in frames that are raised up on legs.

• Container: These are simply gardens in pots or other containers. The containers can be flower pots, wooden boxes, bags, or anything else that a plant can be put in for growing. While some plants may have individual needs once planted in a container, if you can pot a flower, you can certainly pot a food plant.

• Vertical: Vertical gardens may be either traditional or raised bed gardens. The difference is that everything grows upward. If the plant does not naturally grow upward, it can be trained to do so by using supports. Supports will need to be used with the vertical gardens, which will allow the vertical growth of the plants.

Any one of these garden styles may be found in backyards, city lots, rooftops, or on rural farms and homesteads throughout not only the United States, but many other parts of the world as well.

Traditional gardening. Photo by OakleyOriginals under the Creative Commons Attribution License 2.0.

Of course, your selection may automatically be narrowed down by what space is available to you. An apartment dweller, for example, will have nowhere near the same space available for a garden as someone with rural acreage or even an urban backyard. And depending on the type of building, there may not even be a rooftop to use. In some cases, it may come down to a small balcony or some bright windows, in which case a container garden would be the only option. But no matter what the space, each will allow some sort of way to grow vegetables, herbs, fruit, or even some edible flowers.

Raised bed gardening. Photo by Lori L. Stalteri under the Creative Commons Attribution License 2.0.

To determine which type of garden you want to create, first put together a wish list of what you want to grow. For example:

• Do you want early or late harvest foods? (Usually, there will be a mix.)

• Would you prefer heirloom or hybrid plants (or perhaps a combination of both)?

• Will you want to do a late-season planting of cooler weather plants? Some vegetables like lettuce, spinach, and similar plants can have a second planting in late summer for a


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