Gourmet Farmer Deli Book by Matthew Evans – ISBN: 1742664415

  • Full Title: Gourmet Farmer Deli Book
  • Autor: Matthew Evans
  • Print Length: 200 pages
  • Publisher: Murdoch Books
  • Publication Date: January 1, 2016
  • Language: English
  • ISBN-10: 1742664415
  • ISBN-13: 978-1742664415
  • Download File Format | Size: epub | 22,67 Mb
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Why would a person make their own sausages, cure their own ham, pickle their own fish, or preserve their own vegetables? Simple, because it tastes better!

This book takes a two-fold approach by first it celebrating the artisan process in making items you'd typically find in your local deli–from cheese and cream, to cured and smoked meats, to pickled fish and vegetables. Second, it provides simple, delicious recipes where those ingredients are the stars of simple, rustic, flavorful dishes.

This beautifully photographed book celebrates the way we used to cook and food how it used to taste.

 

Editorial Reviews

About the Author

Matthew Evans is a food writer and former restaurant critic who runs a smallholding in Tasmania. He and former chef Ross O'Meara run a market stall selling products made from free-range pigs they breed themselves. Cheesemaker Nick Haddow owns and runs Bruny Island Cheese Company in Tasmania.

 

Keywords

ation. All rights reserved. Except as permitted under the United States Copyright Act of 1976, no part of this publication may be reproduced or distributed in any form or by any means, or stored in a database or retrieval system, without the prior written permission of the publisher.

ISBN: 978-0-07-178235-7

MHID: 0-07-178235-4

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Beef Made Easy and Spanish English Beef Cuts charts on pages 30–31 from the Beef Checkoff. Used with permission.

Pork Basics and El cerdo es bueno charts on pages 32–33 from the National Pork Board. Used with permission.

Omnia stove-top oven image on page 75 courtesy of Anna N Kjellgren/www.annafolio.com. Used with permission.

Cooking guidelines chart on page 258 courtesy of The Beef Checkoff. Used with permission.

Portions of the section on canned meat and seafood was written for the “Galley Gourmet” section of Latitudes & Attitudes. Part of it was published in September 2004 (Issue 52, page 176) and more in April 2005 (Issue 59, page 163) as “Un-Canny Meals.”

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Contents

Preface

How to Use This Book

A GALLEY FRAME OF MIND

Boat Cooking Is Different

What’s On Board Is What You Have

Limited Space

Cooking from Scratch

Few or No Electrical Appliances

Small or No Refrigerator/Freezer

The Motion of the Boat

Limited Water

Heat in the Boat

Equipping a Galley

Buying Galley Equipment

Galley Safety

Equipment Substitution: Making Do

Tips on Choosing Specific Gear

Stoves and Ovens: Using and Troubleshooting

Coolers/Refrigerators/Freezers: Using and Troubleshooting

Miscellaneous Galley Setup Tips

Provisioning

A Stroll Through a Central American Supermercado

Tips for Buying in an Outdoor or Farmer’s Market

Other Shops for Provisioning

Food Storage

Storage Containers and Supplies

Your Food Storage Plan

Storing Your Food

And One Final Tip…

Food Substitutions

Spices, Herbs, Flavorings, and Packet Mixes

Fruits, Vegetables, and Juices

Dry Foods

Soups, Broth, and Bouillon

Liquids

Syrups, Honey, and Molasses

Condiments

Dairy

Other Foods

Me
spearmint tea, keurig coffee maker, traditional italian recipes, apple pie filling, list of dishes,
des. And over the past five years, teams of researchers all over the world have challenged long-held beliefs about whether “lower is better” regarding salt and whether our avoidance of meat and butter is based on solid evidence. The science on all these points, it turns out, is far from settled.

With fascinating detail, Carroll also tackles more recent disputes over genetically modified organisms (GMOs), organic foods, diet soda, gluten, alcohol, and more. These are all topics on which nutrition science has made substantial advancements, yet old habits remain, with many health experts still sifting hard data indiscriminatingly into soft. Carroll is a warm and engaging guide, with funny stories to share about his own eating habits and those of his family, but when it comes to the science, he takes no prisoners. On each of these contested topics, he weighs the evidence carefully and follows the data, even when they lead to conclusions that are inconvenient or unpopular.

On diet soda, for instance, he writes, “I don’t think that letting my children drink diet soda once in a while makes me a monster, but apparently some people do.” What’s more, people seem “to object to the diet even more than to the soda.” Yet we know more about the dangers of sugar than artificial sweeteners, he notes, and the occasional diet soda isn’t going to kill anyone.

This is just one example of the fearmongering that Carroll chides. This demonization of certain foods is fanned by advocacy groups and experts alike, and leaves ordinary people susceptible to terrible advice about their diets. Food phobias paralyze people, to the point where they literally don’t know which supermarket aisle to walk down. This uncertainty turns out to be the perfect culture in which ideology, industry tricks, and commonplace charlatanism flourish, leading to diets of all kinds based less on basic nutrition than on aspirations, passion, and, yes, even the freedom from sin.

Maybe it’s ironic that Carroll calls his book a food bible when the only preaching he’s doing is good old-fashioned science, but his ultimate point is that we should back away from faith-based eating and just eat real food—you know, the kind that our ancestors would have recognized. Plus, perhaps, the occasional diet soda, if you want. No guilt.

“Eating is one of the great joys of life. Don’t let people use misinformation or bad science to deprive you of the pleasure of good food,” Carroll writes. Amen to that.

NINA TEICHOLZ

Nina Teicholz is an investigative journalist and author of the international and New York Times bestseller The Big Fat Surprise. The Economist named it a top science book of 2014, and it was also named a 2014 Best Book by the Wall Street Journal, Forbes, Mother Jones, and Library Journal. Before taking a deep dive into researching nutrition science, Teicholz was a reporter for NPR and also contributed to many publications, including the Wall Street Journal, the New York Times, the Washington Post, The New Yorker, and the Economist. She attended Yale and Stanford, where she studied biology and majored in American studies. She has a master’s degree from Oxford University and served as associate director of the Center on Globalization and Sustainable Development at Columbia University. She lives in New York City.

Introduction

RECENTLY, an old friend of mine was in town for a visit. He loves food, as do my wife and I, so we took him out to a nice restaurant here in Indiana. When it came time to order our entrées, I found myself in an all-too-common predicament: Should I order the “healthy” option or the one that sounded the tastiest?

Luckily, I’ve become somewhat of an expert on this type of dilemma, and so I chose the tenderloin. It proved to be one of the best pieces of meat I’ve ever eaten. My wife and our friend ordered dishes they thought were healthier. They didn’t seem to enjoy their meals as much as I did, but they could console themselves with the knowledge that they had made the “right” choice in the long run.

Had they? It depends on whom you ask.

Today, self-professed experts of all stripes—from doctors to dieticians, weight-loss gurus to personal trainers, bloggers to YouTubers, and everyone in between—seem to have radically different opinions about what we should be eating, and why. All of these viewpoints, well-intentioned though they may be, buffet us with wave after wave of dietary advice that promises to make us thinner, cure us of disease (or prevent it entirely), and ultimately extend our lives. We should eat like cavemen did. We should avoid gluten completely. We should eat only organic. Or vegetarian. Or vegan. These different waves of advice push us in one direction, then another. More often than not, we end up right where we started, but with thinner wallets and thicker waistlines.

If you have a hard time k
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d to Gruyère, this is matured in the darkness of caves and aged for a minimum of four months and up to 24 months. Considered to be one of the finest cheeses in the world, it has a great melt with notes of roasted nuts, fruity pepper and brown butter, with a sweet finish.

Cream Cheese Soft, mild-tasting cheese made from milk and cream, this is incredibly versatile and can be used in sweet and savoury foods. A slick of cream cheese in a grilled cheese adds an indulgence factor that, once you try it, will change your life.

Feta This Greek soft-brined cheese is creamy and crumbly with a sharp, salty and almost sour finish. It is very good in salads, but when melted becomes creamier. It works really well paired with sweet olives.

Gouda A Dutch semi-hard cheese that is renowned for its rich, unique flavour. It has a mild, salty yet fruity flavour with a sweet finish and elastic texture.

Manchego A rich, creamy, firm Spanish sheep’s cheese with a mildly gamey flavour and a hazelnutty sweetness. The flavour varies significantly depending on age – the younger the cheese, the more supple and moist in texture with a fruity, tangy note. As it matures, there is a more caramel, nutty and almost sweet taste. It is aged for up to a year and becomes more crumbly.

Parmesan A hard, granular Italian cheese with a rich umami flavour that is also fruity and nutty.

Ricotta This Italian soft fresh cheese can be used in both sweet and savoury dishes. It is low in fat but carries a creamy texture that is mild in flavour.

MELTERS

American Cheese Also known as ‘processed cheese’, made from a blend of milk, solids, fat and whey concentrates. This is your typical Kraft/Dairylea slices but it also comes in tube form (Velveeta/Cheez Whiz). It has a mild, salty and faintly sweet flavour and a low melting point. The taste and texture vary by brand.

Brie Named the ‘Queen of Cheese’, this French soft cheese is pale in colour with a white edible rind. Buttery, runny and soft-ripened with a mild, slightly fruity and nutty taste, it is a great, versatile cheese. There are many varieties of Brie, now made internationally, but only Brie de Meaux and Brie de Melun can be classified as Brie. There is a great British version called Waterloo.

Cheddar There are many types of Cheddar, ranging from mild to medium and extra mature, but as a general rule, they are all great melters. They can be an excellent way of adding flavour to your toastie; this will depend on the type you choose. Mild Cheddars are gentle and creamy in flavour, with mature versions tending to be sweet and nutty, with a longer finish. You can even get smoked Cheddars as well as Cheddars that have been blended with herbs or flavourings.

Double Gloucester A traditional semi-hard cheese with a smooth, buttery texture and a rich, nutty flavour. Typically aged for four months, you will find that the more aged the cheese, the more complex the flavour and harder it becomes.

Aged Goat’s Cheese We are referring here to the soft variety covered in an edible ash. It has a fluffy middle with a gooey texture when left at room temperature. Creamy with a strong flavour profile, it works well with caramelized onions and roasted vegetables.

Gruyère A hard, yellow, semi-smelly Swiss cheese, Gruyère is buttery sweet with a slightly salty finish and, as with most cheeses, its flavour becomes more robust with age.

Provolone An Italian semi-soft smoked cheese that intensifies when melted. Typically used in a lot of Italo-American cooking, it is rich, milky and mildly nutty, with a sharp saltiness.

Raclette A French cheese commonly served melted over potatoes and pickles.

Reblochon Known to be a devotional cheese offered to Carthusian monks by farmers in the 1500s in return for the monks blessing their crops, this great tasting melter is used in the dish tartiflette (which is DELICIOUS).

Red Leicester Formally known as Leicestershire cheese, this hard, pressed cheese with a rich orange colour has a sweet, mellow flavour with a creamy texture. A great alternative to Cheddar, it melts well and, like most cheeses, gets stronger in flavour the longer it matures.

STRETCHERS

Buffalo Mozzarella The kind you will find in bags or tubs of water to retain its freshness. Made with the milk of a water buffalo, it is a soft, delicate cheese with a unique stretchiness when melted. One of our favourite cheeses, with its milky, creamy flavour profile, it works really well un-melted in salads or alone with a drizzle of good olive oil and some black pepper.

Mozzarella (low moisture) This is the kind you find in supermarkets, in blocks or pre-grated packs. It is much firmer than fresh mozzarella, due to the curds being left to sour slightly before being placed in hot water to loosen the protein structure and then left to dry out. Slightly salty and dense, it carries very little flavour unless melt
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s I use western salad dressing with bacon.

4 boneless, skinless chicken breasts

12-oz. bottle western salad dressing

1 T. pepper

4 kaiser onion rolls, split and toasted

Garnish: 4 lettuce leaves, 4 thick slices tomato

Place chicken breasts, salad dressing and pepper in a gallon-size plastic zipping bag. Seal bag; shake gently to coat chicken. Refrigerate for 3 hours to overnight. Heat a grill to medium-high, about 350 degrees. Remove chicken from bag; discard marinade. Grill chicken until cooked through and chicken juices run clear when pierced. Place each piece of chicken on a toasted bun bottom; top with lettuce, tomato and top of bun. Makes 4 servings.

A ridged cast-iron grill skillet is handy for grilling on your stovetop whenever it’s too cold or rainy to use the grill outdoors.

Chicken Caesar Pita Wraps

Laura Witham

Anchorage, AK

My friends and I used to meet for lunch at a favorite restaurant. I always ordered the chicken Caesar pita sandwich…I really looked forward to it! Over the years, our lunch bunch broke up, so I decided to try making it myself. Now I can enjoy this wrap often. It’s quickly becoming my husband’s favorite, too.

4 boneless, skinless chicken breasts

Montreal steak seasoning to taste

3 T. olive oil

1/2 c. Caesar salad dressing

4 pita rounds

Optional: shredded Parmesan cheese

With a sharp knife, carefully slice horizontally most of the way through each chicken breast; open up and flatten. Sprinkle one side of chicken with seasoning. Heat oil in a large skillet over medium-high heat. Add chicken to skillet; sprinkle other side with seasoning. Cook until golden on both sides and chicken juices run clear when pierced. Remove chicken from skillet to a cutting board. Let cool briefly; slice into strips and transfer to a bowl. Drizzle salad dressing over chicken; stir to coat well. Microwave pita rounds for 20 to 30 seconds, until warmed. Divide chicken mixture evenly among rounds. Sprinkle with Parmesan cheese, if desired. Serves 4.

When you bring home groceries, label any recipe ingredients before refrigerating so they won’t become snacks instead. Label any packages or containers of cheese, veggies and fruit that are intended for between-meal snacking.

Braised Pork Chops

Debora de Faria

The Woodlands, TX

The aroma of these pork chops on the stove brings back memories of my grandmother and mother’s kitchens. Both were wonderful cooks! The longer you cook the pork chops, the more tender they become. Serve with mashed potatoes to enjoy the flavorful gravy.

1 c. all-purpose flour

salt and pepper to taste

6 pork chops

3 T. oil

1 c. catsup

2 c. water

In a shallow bowl, mix flour with salt and pepper; dust pork chops completely. Heat oil in a large skillet over medium-high heat. Add pork chops; cook until golden on both sides. Pour catsup over pork chops. Add water to skillet to cover pork chops completely. Cover and cook over low heat for 25 to 30 minutes, turning once or twice, to desired tenderness. Makes 6 servings.

Mashed potatoes are the perfect partner for creamy comfort foods. Make ’em in a jiffy! Quarter potatoes (no peeling required!) and cook in boiling water until tender, 10 to 20 minutes. Drain, mash right in the pot and stir in butter, salt and a little milk to desired consistency.

Stuffed Cube Steaks

Judith Long

Harriman, TN

This is a recipe that I have made for years… my family loves it! Just add a veggie and voilà, a quick & easy meal.

6-oz. pkg. stuffing mix

.87-oz. pkg. brown gravy mix

4 beef cube steaks

2 to 3 t. oil

Prepare stuffing mix according to package directions, adding a little extra liquid to make it extra moist. Place a heaping spoonful of stuffing on each steak; roll up and secure with wooden toothpicks. Place oil in a large cast-iron skillet over medium-high heat; add stuffed steaks and brown on all sides. Meanwhile, prepare gravy mix according to package directions. When steaks are browned on all sides, add gravy to skillet. Reduce heat; cover and simmer for about 10 minutes, until steaks are tender. Serves 4.

Create a meal plan for one or even two weeks, including all of your favorite quick & easy meals…spaghetti on Monday, chicken pot pie on Tuesday and so forth. It can be very specific or more general. Post it on the fridge along with a shopping list…making dinner will be a snap!

Sausage & Spanish Rice Skillet

Kathy Smith

Cincinnati, OH

My husband and I came up with this tasty recipe. My daughters and grandchildren really enjoy it!

1 lb. smoked pork sausage links, cut into one-inch pieces

2 to 3 t. oil

1-1/2 c. instant rice, uncooked

1-1/2 c. chicken broth

8-oz. jar mild or hot salsa

2 c. shredded Cheddar cheese

In a large skillet over medium-high heat, brown sausage in oil; d
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hop or home grown.

If you truly look at wholefoods – defined as foods found in their natural state – only 10% of the foods found in the supermarkets can really be called ‘whole’ – and that is from the fresh fruit and vegetable counters. And yet within that section, only some products are labelled organic. Shouldn’t all foods be organic, as they once were? What is wrong with the inorganic stuff? What do we not know? Why is there a difference?

The way our food is produced is no longer simple. Complex food-manufacturing systems dictated to us by fulfilling economic efficiencies means we have lost our primordial ways of living and therefore eating. This balance has to be restored – but because of the complexity of the way our food is produced, we must work harder to seek out the best ingredients – if best means the most nutritious, and ‘nutritious’ being ‘clean’. Knowing where your food comes from and cultivating it as much as you can is difficult in the times we live in, yet, if everyone grew their own food or slaughtered their own animals, we would be a lot ‘cleaner’ and healthier, and we would have much less food wastage.

Through my own journey, I realised that the food allergies I suffered from were due not to the ingredients themselves, but to the additives the ingredients were combined with. For example, I noticed that when I consumed frozen shellfish, I would sometimes have an allergic reaction. However, on one occasion in Macau, I visited a seafood market where the catch was extremely fresh and the prawns hadn’t had time to be preserved. I didn’t have any allergic reaction at all; I ate six gigantic prawns with no effect, whereas previously any slight contact would have made my face swell in a second. I was in heaven.

This is when I started to notice a pattern. At first I thought the allergy was just with prawns, but when I consumed pizza dough, nuts or wines, the hives would resurface. My system must have been experiencing a toxic overload whereby any chemicals consumed would give rise to these allergic reactions. It was my body’s way of telling me that I had reached the limit and something drastic had to be done. I didn’t look unhealthy, but internally my body was not happy.

The body’s natural rhythm and metabolic function is affected by what we consume. If this is disrupted by ingesting high amounts of pollutants and additives, the body will struggle to reach its natural equilibrium. If the metabolism is affected, so is the body’s ability to burn fat. By eating clean, the body will stay clean and, ultimately, it will also be lean.

Why eat organic?

I’m a great fan of organic foods and believe that organic produce is healthier, as it is less exposed to artificial chemicals and fertilisers. It has a lower environmental impact and may have a higher nutritional content, too. Organic foods are more expensive to buy, but because of the benefits I really believe they are worth the extra money, so I choose to buy organic fruit and veg, dairy products and fish where possible.

I also exclusively choose organic meat. This is because I care about animals and their welfare. Organic livestock are given access to the outside, are fed organic food and are not allowed to be given hormones or antibiotics. This is obviously a much more pleasant environment for an animal to be raised in. And even if you are not concerned about animal welfare, eating organic meat makes sense because it means you get tastier cuts of meat that are free from chemicals and artificial drugs.

The general belief is that animals are not as evolved as humans. They hunt and follow their instincts blindly. However, I believe that as humans we have been blessed with greater consciousness and thus responsibility. Regardless of our instincts, we can consciously choose which actions we take, and by these actions are we defined as people.

At one time, of course, all foods were organic and I hope that we can return to this state of being again some day.

Seasonal, local food

Shopping for seasonal, local fruits and vegetables is something that I’ve been doing for a while; eating within the seasons ensures that produce is at its best both flavourwise and nutrientwise and is in abundance at the time. Eating seasonally is also better for the environment and produces fresher, cheaper ingredients.

To go one step further is to grow some of your own food. Recently this has become popular in cities where people are utilising any outdoor space to grow vegetables, berries and herbs. What could be more local than that?

From first-hand observation, my grandparents seemed much healthier than many of my parents’ generation and lived illness free until old age. They were farmers and lived off the produce from their land by necessity, not having access to processed foods. They were more active, too, and ate whole, organic foods within the seasons. Their generation probably had a lower life expectancy than elderly peo
got all the macho rush to it

without any of the violence.’ This argument neatly forgets

the existence of cave women, as well as the long tradition

of female involvement in home butchering and the roasting

of meat. It reflects a cultural dichotomy between indoor and

outdoor space in which the former is coded as female and

the latter as male. This is a relatively recent construction that

is specific to societies in which industrialization occurred

during the nineteenth century.

When household production was replaced with large-scale

manufacturing of consumer goods, domestic space in these

societies – the United States and England primary among



them – took on a new character. Instead of being a place of

productive busyness and its concomitant mess, the home (if

only in ideology) became a serene sanctuary managed by

passionless females. The temple of the home did not include

animal sacrifice, and in America barbecue, because it had to be

done outdoors, became an exclusively male business. Because

it was so often served at political gatherings, also forbidden

to ‘respectable’ ladies of the late nineteenth century, barbe-

cue emitted an even more masculine odour amid the smoke.

In the film version of Gone With the Wind (), set around the

time of the .. Civil War, Scarlett O’Hara is urged by Mammy,

the enslaved woman who dresses her, to eat something before

she goes to a local barbecue so that she may maintain her

femininity. When Scarlett says ‘I will do my eating at the bar-

becue’, Mammy responds, ‘Well if you don’t care what folks

says about this family, I does!’ While it had become accept-

able in the mid-nineteenth century South for a woman to

attend an event at which smoked meat was the centrepiece, it

was still taboo for her to tuck in with gusto.

While these new gender norms explain the twentieth-

century association of men with outdoor meat cookery, a

likely explanation for the older association of men with

barbe cue is that in most traditional, non-herding societies,

men have been hunters, responsible for the animal protein

in a community’s diet. Because this protein was a sporadic

rather than a constant element in the diet, it held a special

status. Meat, in other words, was power. Thus the provider of

the meat might well have also become its preparer, preserv –

ing the connection to the meat that made him important

to his community.

In many cases, too, meat has had to be cooked quickly so

that it will last for the length of a journey from hunting ground

to home. Smoke and drying, as discussed in chapter One, have



long proved excellent tools for preservation. In this case, men

barbecued meat because men caught meat, and they did so

in the company of other men. They might eat their smoked

meat with women and children once it had been trans ported

back to a settlement, and preserved meat might be used by

women in compound dishes, but the first cooking process

was often male. As the American Studies scholar Elizabeth

Englehardt writes, ‘For many, the symbols of barbecue’s

masculinity – cowboy imagery, hunting metaphors and unaf-

fected food presentation are indistinguishable from barbecue

itself. ’ Thus to be ‘authentic’, that most chimerical of edible proper ties, barbecue has to be masculine.

In ancient Northern Europe, barbecued meats were often

reserved for warriors, probably because of the time and fuel

commitment they required, or perhaps because they tend to

be large pieces of hacked flesh, reminiscent of the battle –

field. In the great Irish epic Bricriu’s Feast, for example, Bricriu

attempts to stir up trouble among local kings by secretly

promising each the ‘champion’s portion’ at a feast he has pre-

pared for them. The heroes of the land were expected to fight

to the death over ‘a caldron of full generous wine’, a seven-

year-old boar raised on a special diet of milk, nuts and broth,

and a ‘cow-lord full seven-year-old’ fed on sweet milk and

herbs. Given the sizes of these beasts and Celtic culinary trad –

ition, we can assume that spit roasting rather than stewing

would have been the cooking method and the resultant bar-

becue flavour would thus have been worth risking life and

limb for.

In Papua New Guinea barbecue has also been associated

with warfare. Among the Iatmul people, when one village

engaged in warfare with another, ‘the [returning] warrior

staged a pig feast inside the cult house in order to evade the

wrath of his victim’s ghost.’ At this feast, the warrior was



‘specifically obligated to feed men of other descent groups’,

rather than his own people, and to abstain from eating any

food himself. The ritual served as a kind of rebalancing be –

tween men and the powerful spirits believed to manage human

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