[pdf | 35,89 Mb] Earth to Table by Jeff Crump – amazon pdf ebooks

  • Full Title : Earth to Table: Seasonal Recipes from an Organic Farm
  • Autor: Jeff Crump
  • Print Length: 336 pages
  • Publisher: Ecco
  • Publication Date: September 22, 2009
  • Language: English
  • ISBN-10: 0061825948
  • ISBN-13: 978-0061825941
  • Download File Format | Size: pdf | 35,89 Mb
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“A beautiful book in every way.”

—Michael Pollan


Earth to Table by Jeff Crump and Bettina Schormann is an extraordinary, gorgeously illustrated collection of reflections and recipes in the tradition of Michael Pollan’s The Omnivore’s Dilemma and Food Matters. Subtitled “Seasonal Recipes from an Organic Farm,” Earth to Table sumptuously illuminates how good food is grown and how it comes to us—following over the course of one year, the journey from farm to restaurant of delicious organic produce. Featuring thoughts and recipes from some of the world’s most renowned and innovative “slow food” chefs—including Dan Barber (Blue Hill), Thomas Keller (The French Laundry), Matthew Dillon (Sitka and Spruce), and Heston Blumenthal (The Fat Duck)—here is a glorious celebration of the best things on earth, from Earth to Table.


Editorial Reviews

From Publishers Weekly

Starred Review. This engrossing collection of essays and recipes by chefs Crump and Schormann works on two levels: not only does it educate readers regarding the concept of Slow Food and the importance of supporting local farmers, it gives them a wealth of recipes to make the most of their bounty. A Canadian pioneer of Slow Food with sterling credentials (having worked at Heston Blumenthal’s Fat Duck and Alice Water’s Chez Panisse), Crump and slow food pastry chef Schormann are refreshingly off-the-cuff when it comes to the principles of Slow Food, acknowledging that the seemingly simple concept of eating locally is a complex undertaking, best illustrated in profiles and interviews with chefs like Thomas Keller, Dan Barber, and Blumenthal. Recipes are grouped by season, highlighting ingredients at their peak in concoctions like the bracing summertime Watermelon Agua Fresca, autumn’s Pumpkin Seed Brittle, comforting cold-weather Apple Cider Muffins and Rabbit Stew with Herbed Dumplings, and a simple, spring lunch of Dandelion Salad with Poached Eggs. Peppered with tips on planning an herb garden, composting and getting the most out of a visit to the local farmers market, this is a true stand-out among a growing crowd of books for novice locavores.

From the Back Cover

There is nothing more delightful than a tomato still warm from the sun, or a strawberry so perfectly ripe that it stains your fingers.

Why not eat this way all the time? The healthiest and most delicious food comes from farmers and artisans just down the road—though it is often easy to forget when we are surrounded by food shipped to our supermarkets from around the world and by highly processed products from distant factories.

Jeff Crump learned of the pleasures of using local cuisine by working in world-famous restaurants like Alice Waters’s Chez Panisse, and he set about to develop a network of farmers to keep his own restaurant’s kitchen humming all year round. It was not long before he was out in the fields himself, alongside pastry chef and collaborator Bettina Schormann, planting and harvesting crops that would form the backbone of their menus, breads, and desserts.

Eating locally means eating seasonally, and Jeff and Bettina offer up the most delicious of what each season provides. It could be something as unexpected as Gnudi with Ramps and Morels picked from the woods across the road; as simple and as refreshing as Dandelion Salad; or when it is cold outside, as hearty as Bread and Butter Pudding.

Earth to Table lets nature write the menu. Tender, green things in spring. Ripe, juicy dishes in summer. The bounty of the harvest in autumn. Rich braises and tart preserves in winter. The result is a year of discovery of new ingredients and dishes, and a rediscovery of classics that suddenly taste the way they were meant to.

Bringing together stories of the passage of seasons on the farm; profiles of some of the world’s most innovative chefs—like Heston Blumenthal and Thomas Keller—and the farmers they count on; how-to sections that help readers make the most of the season and what their gardens and farmers’ markets have to offer; stunning photographs; and, of course, creative and delicious recipes that make anyone wonder why they ever considered eating a tomato in February, Earth to Table explores what’s best about food.




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© 2007 by David Prince

Photographs fm.1 , fm.2 , and bm.1 copyright © 2007 by Tina Anderson.

Photographs fm.1 , 2.1 , 4.1 , and 5.1 copyright © 2007 by Rick Lew.

Photographs 1.1 and 1.2 copyright © 2007 by Victoria Yee.

Photograph 8.1 copyright © 2007 by Alexa Miller.

All rights reserved.

Published in the United States by Clarkson Potter/Publishers,

an imprint of the Crown Publishing Group,

a division of Random House, Inc., New York.



Clarkson N. Potter is a trademark and Potter and colophon are registered trademarks of Random House, Inc.

Library of Congress Cataloging-in-Publication Data

Anderson, Tina.

The ski house cookbook: warm winter dishes for cold weather fun / Tina Anderson and Sarah Pinneo—1st ed.

Includes index.

1. Cookery. I. Pinneo, Sarah. II. Title.

TX714.P555  2007

641.5—dc22   2006037002

ISBN 9780307339980

Ebook ISBN 9781524759742

Prop stylist: Christina Lane

Food stylist: Margarette Adams








Après-Ski Snacks


Fast Food Entrées

Slow Food Entrées

Salads and Sides



Notes and Tips for High-Altitude Cooking

Stocking the Pantry, Refrigerator, and Freezer



THANK YOU to our family, friends, and tasters for their unwavering support of our cooking endeavors. Thank you Mike, Jack, and Wyatt for eating braised pork shoulder four nights in a row. Special thanks to David Prince, Christina Lane, and Margarette Adams for helping us bring our recipes to life. Finally, thank you to our agent, Carla Glasser, for seeing the potential in us and in our idea, and to our editor, Rica Allannic, for taking a chance. And to all the skiers out there: Safety first!

WE GREW UP IN SNOW —lots of it—in Western Michigan. The average low temperature in January is 16 degrees, and “lake effect”—gray clouds rolling off Lake Michigan and dumping their chilly contents onto the streets of our youth—is more than a feature of the weather: It is a way of life. The landscape is, unfortunately, completely flat. Sometimes it seems the six months of winter are spent either waiting for the car to heat up or shoveling the walk.

Our love of winter was born when we found skiing. We discovered that the view from a mountaintop and a bit of the right gear could keep us outside for hours without feeling too cold. We learned that pointing our tips down the hill felt like flying, and that red cheeks and hat head were charming in the right venue.

We love to ski, and we also love to cook. And when we ski, we cook up a storm. What’s the link? First, we’re starved. There is something about breathing cold air all day and tearing around at great speed that makes for a healthy appetite. (Exercise specialists will tell you that skiing isn’t terribly aerobic, since gravity does a lot of the work for you, but we know better.)

Another reason we cook is that wintertime demands that we celebrate our good fortune to spend the day outside with a restorative feast. While we don’t think anyone really needs a grand excuse to sup on chili or wintry braised meats, ’tis the season.

Finally, there are practical matters. Finding a great meal in a ski town can be downright challenging. Unless you’re someplace terribly cosmopolitan like Aspen, Colorado, or Park City, Utah, you may be skiing the terrain of champions but confined to less than regal restaurant choices. To put it nicely, many rural ski towns aren’t known for their haute cuisine. And if you are lucky enough to find yourself in a really swish locale, make sure you’ve got reservations and a fat wallet. When everyone in town is enjoying the same schedule, those fancy restaurants are packed—and with demand outstripping supply, they can and do charge whatever they please.

Some of us have kids. Marching them all to a crowded eatery, waiting for a table, ordering carefully to accommodate little tastes, and sitting through dinner is sometimes more than we can bear. There’s always pizza…but in many places ordering a pizza is the culinary equivalent of being carried down the mountain on the ski patrol sled: If you can avoid it, you should.

For all these reasons, we deemed it necessary to bring you The Ski House Cookbook , with our version of the best ways to enjoy the culinary accompaniments to the downhill life. Having done a lot of ski house cooking, we have a few tricks to share. We like to eat as if we’ve spent the day in the kitchen without actually having done so. This can mean the slow cooker works hard all day so you don’t have to, as in the case of our Mogul Beef Chili. Or it can mean preparing calzones ahead of time, freezing them, and popping them in the oven when we get home.

Luckily, many main-course foods taste best when
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u so vielen Themen, die mir bei meinen Streifzügen durch die besten Küchen der Welt aufgefallen sind.

Ich habe etwas zu den Verirrungen der Spitzengastronomie zu sagen, zu den Unsinnigkeiten, die landauf, landab für Normalität gehalten werden, zu den sinnlosen Anstrengungen der Köche, die ihren Gästen Speisen aufdrängen, die diese gar nicht wollen, zur Arroganz der Sommeliers, die glauben, dass ihre Weinauswahl das Alpha und Omega eines gelungenen Abends ist, zur Unfähigkeit der Gastronomieschulen, ihre Schüler auf das vorzubereiten, was sie in der Praxis wirklich erwartet.

In meinen Jahren als Küchenchef unter der Patronage von Eckart Witzigmann – zuerst im „Ca’s Puers“ auf Mallorca, später elf Jahre lang als Executive Chef im „Hangar-7“ in Salzburg – habe ich zum Beispiel erlebt, welchen zerstörerischen Einfluss die angeblich besten Freunde des Gastes, die Restaurantführer, ausüben.

Ich habe mich mit meiner Kritik am Gault Millau und am Michelin auch nie zurückgehalten, was mir sehr oft das Schulterklopfen von Kollegen eingebracht hat, die mir „Du hast ja so recht!“ ins Ohr flüsterten. Aber sie flüsterten sehr, sehr leise, damit keiner vom Gault Millau oder vom Michelin sie vielleicht hört.

Weil ich den Gault Millau aber wirklich für schädlich halte und mit seiner Beurteilungspraxis alles andere als einverstanden bin, kritisiere ich ihn auch in diesem Buch (siehe das Kapitel „Gift für die Spitzenküche“). Und weil zum Streiten immer zwei gehören, habe ich den Herausgeber des Gault Millau eingeladen, das Vorwort zu diesem Buch zu schreiben – je härter, desto besser. Wie gesagt, das Schmeichelweiche liegt mir nicht (außer ich sitze mit meinem Sohn Diego und meiner schönen Frau Daniela zu Hause auf dem Sofa).

Meine Anfrage wurde vom Gault Millau-Herausgeber Karl Hohenlohe allerdings höflich abgelehnt. Schade. Ich hätte gern erfahren, was Herr Hohenlohe wirklich denkt. Ich hätte gern kontrovers mit ihm diskutiert. Die Gastronomie ist eine Branche, in der viel zu viel geschmeichelt und gespeichelt wird. Kaum jemand hat Lust, Klartext zu reden.

Wenn sich also jemand von meinen Erzählungen, Kommentaren oder Provokationen auf den folgenden Seiten gestört fühlt – gut so. Lassen Sie mich wissen, was Sie denken. Widersprechen Sie. Richten Sie mir aus, dass ich einen an der Waffel habe. Das ist meine E-Mail-Adresse:

[email protected]

Dorthin dürfen Sie mir auch schreiben, wenn Sie Freude an diesem Buch haben. Denn ich liefere Ihnen hier nicht nur Kontroverses, sondern einige der geilsten kulinarischen Erlebnisse, die man auf diesem Planeten haben kann – und ein paar Gebrauchsanweisungen, wie man diesen Erlebnissen möglichst nahe kommt.

Kontroverse und Euphorie: Das sind die beiden Pole, zwischen denen sich dieses Buch bewegt. Denn nichts ist menschlicher, nichts ist großartiger als der Genuss, den wir erleben, wenn wir zum Beispiel am „Pier 1“ in San Francisco eine Auster schlürfen oder im „Patscheiderhof“ auf dem Ritten Schlutzkrapfen essen. Wenn wir in Hongkong die besten Dim Sums verschlingen, die je ein Mensch aus dem heißen Dampf genommen hat, oder in Sydney die abgefahrensten Sushi, die ein Sushimeister auf der Welt zubereiten kann, mit einem Biss verzehren. Wenn wir im „Spice Market“ in New York zum grandiosen Thai-Curry tanzen oder bei Heinz Reitbauer in Wien über dem warmen Blunzenbrot in Tränen ausbrechen.

Dafür lohnt es sich, den Kopf hinzuhalten und all denen im Weg zu stehen, die mit Durchschnitt und Konfektion zufrieden sind. Genuss verdient jede Anstrengung, jede Übertreibung, jeden Irrweg, jeden Kampf.

Genuss ist jede Sünde wert.

Der Anfang von allem: Eckart Witzigmann

Ich war kein guter Schüler. Ich vermute, dass mein Vater den Lehrern in der Hauptschule etwas zugesteckt hat, damit sie mich nicht sitzenbleiben lassen, aber beweisen kann ich es nicht. Auch in der Lehre war ich nicht besonders aktiv. Ich habe mich für nichts anderes interessiert als für die Mädels, die draußen herumgelaufen sind. Mein Lehrmeister ist an mir verzweifelt. Er war sicher der glücklichste Mensch, als er mir meinen Lehrabschluss nachgeworfen hat, nur damit er mich nicht mehr sehen muss.

Dann bin ich zum Militär gegangen und habe Sattelschlepper gefahren. Ich musste für die Fallschirmspringer immer nach Pisa und zurück. Beim Militär bin ich dann ein bisschen aufgeweckt worden. Als ich mit dem Wehrdienst fertig war, wusste ich, dass alles, was ich bisher gelernt hatte, nicht viel wert war. Weil ich hatte es einfach nicht kapiert.

Das zu kapieren war der erste Schritt. Und ich sah ein, dass ich, wenn ich weiterkommen will, aus Südtirol wegmuss aus der idealen, wunderschönen Bergwelt. Ich war ja ein Extremist, bin überall angeeckt. Meine Frisuren waren anders, meine Kleidung war anders, überall habe ich gehört: Ja, s
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into your diet. I eat like this all the time, and you can, too. It’s surprisingly easy and mouthwateringly delicious. You’ll learn why you need Alpha

~ 5 ~

to get up and move more, sit down and eat more, and really wake up and pay attention to your food, your family, and your friends.

You don’t need to tour the Mediterranean to learn how to slow down just a little bit and let stress fly out of your life like a helium balloon with a broken string. But you do need to pay attention to your food, breathe deeply, go outside, talk to your friends, be with your family, and (this is important!) learn to enjoy eating again.

What better way could there be to lose weight, become slim, feel vibrantly healthy, reclaim your energy, and get back in touch with the earth that produces your food? Eating and living in the spirit of the Mediterranean has nothing to do with deprivation or even willpower. No, this way of life is pure pleasure.

You’ll learn to take the time to cook for family and friends, to sit down with them for meals and laugh, talk, and eat with relish and passion. Your body will change. Your face will look younger. You’ll feel younger and maybe even reclaim that waistline you had in your early twenties.

I can practically guarantee that your life will change. Living in contact with the earth, your food, and the people you love will help to coax your best self forward until you feel like your life is a Mediterranean vacation. You will find yourself glowing and radiating beauty.

In my opinion, there are two things you must

recognize about beauty in order to achieve it:

first, it is within your reach, and second, it is

worth working for.

—Sophia Loren, Italian actress

That’s the power of the Mediterranean way of eating, living, and being. Are you with me? Great! Let’s begin.

Mediterranean Women Stay Slim, Too

~ 6 ~



Where I Come From

A mild golden sun. An impossibly blue-green sea. A gentle wind like silk with the faint smell of salt. Silver olive trees. Sun-warmed vegetables and fruits ripe to bursting. And people . . .

beautiful, friendly, smiling, bright-eyed, contented, healthy, strong, fit people who reach out to help you even if they have no idea who you are. People selling the food they coaxed from the earth. People strolling down the road. People riding their bicycles or sitting in cafes talking and laughing. People in passionate embraces or alone and contemplative, sipping an espresso or choosing a piece of fish at the market or sharing a dessert at an outdoor cafe. Everywhere, people with a sense of place and purpose.

Every time I travel to the Mediterranean, this is the world I experience. In many ways, it seems like a fantasy world to Americans who have never been anywhere near the Mediterranean Sea. Isn’t it what we dream of when we imagine an idyl-

~ 7 ~

lic life without cell phones, laptops, deadlines, meetings, cubi-cles, recycled office building air, isolation, loneliness, and stress? Don’t we fantasize about a world where all those things melt away, where we, too, have calm, smiling faces and strong, slim bodies, and the natural flush of a hard day’s physical work . . . and the ability to relax after the work is done?

But this is reality: I can’t pick up and move to the Mediterranean. You probably can’t, either. At least not anytime soon.

But you don’t have to, because being in the Mediterranean is just one small part of being of the Mediterranean. Mediterranean is a lifestyle. An attitude. A spiritual path, if you will.

You don’t have to live there, and I know because I grew up in that spirit, with that lifestyle and attitude. And I grew up on Long Island.

But even on the east coast of the United States, with the chilly Atlantic as an influence rather than the balmy Mediterranean Sea, the Mediterranean spirit permeated my whole family, which was in many ways governed by my Italian grandfather, Primo Magnani, a butcher by trade and an inveterate gastronome at heart. Primo came to this country from Italy, but instead of taking on America’s habits, he clung insistently to his own, passing those along to my mother and right on down to me.

Living in America, being an American, but living so fully and wholly in the Mediterranean way, wasn’t always easy. But now that I am an adult, living my dream—a Mediterranean dream in which I cook food for others as a profession and actually get paid to do it— splendido! —I can see what a difference the Mediterranean lifestyle and attitude has had on my life. At an age when many Americans have been overweight for years, I am not. I feel good, I have energy, and I like the way I look. In typical Mediterranean fashion, however, I don’t worry about it Mediterranean Women Stay Slim, Too

~ 8 ~

too much, either. The Mediterranean lifestyle is about pleasure and passion, feeling good and embracing life. It’s about living, right here, right now
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hey’re cold (make sure not to let any yolk get in the whites!), then let the whites come fully to room temperature. Use only spotlessly clean bowls, ideally metal (copper is the best) or glass, never plastic. Wipe the inside of the bowl with a little lemon juice or vinegar to remove any trace of oil. Adding a bit of cream of tartar will help to stabilize the foam, and using superfine sugar will help it to more fully dissolve into the meringue. Beat the whites until they’re glossy and form stiff peaks, then stop—they can become grainy if overbeaten. Be sure to spread the meringue all the way to the edges of the pie crust to prevent it from shrinking. Finally, adding meringue to hot, freshly baked pie fillings helps to prevent “weeping,” the watery layer between the filling and the meringue.

tools of the trade

I am hardly a snob when it comes to gadgets. In a pinch, I’ve rolled out pie dough with wine bottles. Pie is a rustic dessert that can be made from very humble ingredients, in very humble settings. Take these as guidelines, for when you’re ready to trick out your arsenal of baking tools.


* * *

If you get nothing else on this list, get a scale. Pastry differs from savory cooking in that precision really matters, especially with an ingredient like flour, whose weight can vary drastically depending on how you put it in your measuring cup. I find that using a simple kitchen scale (it doesn’t have to be digital, though those have their benefits) leads to reliable results, time and time again. Plus, there are some really cool-looking ones out there!


* * *

I’m putting this second on my list because I’m obsessed. I think I might have a touch of the pyro in me, because I will never get tired of using my blowtorch. If you plan on baking meringue pies, or that s’mores pie, or crème brûlée, or you want to add a little color to a pan of glazed veggies, you can justify owning a torch—mostly because they’re just so fun. Mine is from a company called Iwatani, which uses replaceable butane canisters. Unlike propane, the butane doesn’t impart any flavor to the surface of your food. If you do decide to buy one, avoid the tiny models you see at specialty food stores. These are very weak and tend to die out pretty quickly. They’re also overpriced.


* * *

You may not have these lying around the house, but bench scrapers are among the most versatile, useful kitchen tools you can own. I use mine to gently pry dough off of countertops, to clean off my work surfaces, to cut butter, and to make pie dough. I always have two on hand. I prefer the ones pictured, which have sturdy metal panels and easy-to-grip plastic handles. My preferred runner-up to these when making pie dough is a…


* * *

There are two types of pastry blenders out there: those with thin, round strands of metal, and those with thick, blade-like pieces of metal. You want the latter. These will more quickly and easily cut through the fats you’re blending into your flour.


* * *

There are two main types of rolling pins. The traditional American-style pins are usually made of wood or marble, and have a round cylinder that spins, with one handle on each end. French-style pins are long dowels that are thicker in the middle and taper at the ends. I greatly prefer the French pin, which I feel gives more control and rolls more evenly. Try them both, and see what’s more comfortable for you.


* * *

Which to use? Glass, ceramic, aluminum—they all have their place. I use the light, disposable aluminum tins every day when baking whole pies for customers. Pies tend to bake more quickly in these inexpensive tins, and you don’t have to worry as much about the bottom crust being underbaked.

Glass pie plates are prettier to look at, and the transparent sides and bottom allow you to clearly see when your crust has turned golden. They are thicker than the aluminum tins, and therefore generally need a bit more baking time.

Ceramic plates are beautiful, but I’d argue that they’re best for experienced pie bakers, who can gauge when the pie is ready without needing to see the bottom crust. The thicker walls of these plates mean that even for fresh fruit pies, you might need to blind-bake the bottom crust first so it finishes at the same time as your filling. You can also help ensure a well-baked bottom crust by putting this dish on the floor of your oven in the last fifteen minutes of baking.


* * *

Baking sheets prevent a lot of disasters on the way from the counter to the oven. If you’ve got a jiggly custard crust, those spills are going to wind up on the baking sheet instead of all over your floor. If you’ve got a fruit pie that just can’t help but bubble over, those juices will wind up on a much


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