The Mixellany Guide to Vermouth & Other Aperitifs by Anistatia Renard Miller – ISBN: 1907434259

  • Full Title: The Mixellany Guide to Vermouth & Other Aperitifs
  • Autor: Anistatia Renard Miller
  • Print Length: 240 pages
  • Publisher: Jared Brown
  • Publication Date: July 14, 2011
  • Language: English
  • ISBN-10: 1907434259
  • ISBN-13: 978-1907434259
  • Download File Format | Size: epub | 1,81 Mb
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The Mixellany Guide to Vermouth & Other Aperitifs explores the remarkable history of aromatized wines and spirits as well as the secrets of their production. When vermouth landed on American shores, it gave birth to an entire family of drinks from the Martini and the Manhattan to the Adonis and the Metropole. In Britain, the dry and sweet versions led to the Blood & Sand and the Matador. But why did Winston Churchill allegedly bow toward France instead of using vermouth in a drink? Why have various eyedroppers and atomizers been marketed to administer minute amounts of this aromatized wine into American drinks on both sides of the Atlantic? In cafés throughout Italy and France you can tell the time by the orders for tumblers and goblets of vermouth on the rocks. Argentines and Chileans love vermouth so much their cocktail hour is sometimes called l’hora del vermut [the vermouth hour]. In some regions of Spain bodegas have barrels of vermouth to dole out for after-work aperitivos. Drinks historians and life-long vermouth lovers, Jared Brown and Anistatia Miller delve into the reasons why vermouths and other apéritifs have been so misunderstood and under-valued since the end of Prohibition in the United States and suggest why it is time to have a change of heart.


Editorial Reviews




Rick Stein was born in 1947 on a farm near Chipping Norton in Oxfordshire, and was educated at Uppingham School. Having worked as a chef at the Great Western Royal Hotel at Paddington, he spent several years travelling and held a variety of occupations, from being a television studio assistant in Sydney to a deckhand on a German cargo ship. He returned to read English at New College, Oxford, but went on to find a practical outlet for his enthusiasm for the splendours of seafood when he and his wife Jill opened the Sea Food Restaurant in Padstow, Cornwall, in 1975. Since then the business has grown from one small harbour-side bistro into a number of establishments with a genuinely international reputation and clientele.

Over the last twenty-five years Rick Stein has become the household name in the UK for fish cookery, having written a number of popular cookbooks which have won numerous awards. English Seafood Cookery won the 1989 Glenfiddich Award for the Food Book of the Year. Rick Stein’s Taste of the Sea won the 1995 André Simon Memorial Fund Book Award and the Good Food Award in 1996. He has made a number of television series and films which have also proved to be highly successful. Rick Stein’s Taste of the Sea won the 1996 Glenfiddich Award for Best Television Programme of the Year.

The Steins live at Trevone Bay near Padstow with their three sons and their Jack Russell, Chalky, who has become something of a star in his owner’s television appearances. Rick’s passion continues to be for fresh, simply cooked fish and, as well practising his craft, he now hopes to spend more time supporting the causes of fishermen in the South West.





Published by the Penguin Group

Penguin Books Ltd, 80 Strand, London WC2R 0RL, England

Penguin Putnam Inc., 375 Hudson Street, New York, New York 10014, USA

Penguin Books Australia Ltd, 250 Camberwell Road, Camberwell, Victoria 3124, Australia

Penguin Books Canada Ltd, 10 Alcorn Avenue, Toronto, Ontario, Canada M4V 3B2

Penguin Books India (P) Ltd, 11 Community Centre, Panchsheel Park, New Delhi –110 017, India

Penguin Books (NZ) Ltd, Cnr Rosedale and Airborne Roads, Albany, Auckland, New Zealand

Penguin Books (South Africa) (Pty) Ltd, 24 Sturdee Avenue, Rosebank 2196, South Africa

Penguin Books Ltd, Registered Offices: 80 Strand, London WC2R 0RL, England

First published 1988


Copyright © Richard Stein, 1988

Illustrations © Katinka Kew, 1988

All rights reserved

Except in the United States of America, this book is sold subject to the condition that it shall not, by way of trade or otherwise, be lent, re-sold, hired out, or otherwise circulated without the publisher’s prior consent in any form of binding or cover other than that in which it is published and without a similar condition including this condition being imposed on the subsequent purchaser

ISBN: 978-0-14-195746-3








(Stocks, Sauces, Butters, Dressings, Batters, Pastry and Salting)











So many cookery books appear every year that one must explain the reason for writing yet another. This book is about the seafood I cook at my restaurant in Padstow. It doesn’t aim to be comprehensive in its coverage of the cookery of fish and shellfish in Great Britain, and although it is called English Seafood Cookery, you won’t find many traditional recipes in it. This is largely because there aren’t many. Some English dishes like fish and chips, stargazey pie or potted shrimps are well-known and good; but one soon begins to run out of material. To fill a book with recipes with an English flavour, one has to look elsewhere than to traditional English cookery, and that is where the recipes from my restaurant come in.

The Seafood Restaurant, which I run, is in the small fishing port of Padstow on the North Cornish coast. My wife Jill and I started it twelve years ago in this part of England long dismissed as a gastronomic desert; but after a dozen years if you were to tell me that the English are not interested in seafood, I would say that was rubbish. The public’s appreciation of good food has progressed incredibly fast in that period.

Just to give you an idea, twelve years ago we were selling sea bass as the unnamed fish in fish and chips; now we cannot buy enough of it to satisfy the demand, and it certainly doesn’t go into fish and chips any
healthy pancake recipe, red wines list, slimming tea, buy beer, drinks direct,

Finally, to YOU, my Whole30’ers. All of this is for you. It’s always for you. My love for you and this program is fierce and undying. For you, I am grateful.


I bought my first Instant Pot in 2017, after hearing so many friends rave about how fast and easy it made meal prep. I’d been using my slow cooker a few times a week, adding ingredients in the morning to be ready for dinnertime. But it wasn’t always easy to chop, brown, and measure while trying to get my son ready for the day, and more often than not I found myself doing the math around lunchtime: “If I start prepping now, we can eat at eight p.m. . . .” I was sure the Instant Pot was going to be the answer—all the same delicious meals in a fraction of the time.

When I took the thing out of the box, though, I immediately felt overwhelmed. So many buttons. A steam release valve with a danger warning. A timer that counts down, THEN BACK UP—what kind of wizardry is that? I Googled a little, then stuffed it back in the cabinet and went back to my trusty slow cooker.

Once I started seeing the Instant Pot recipes my team was creating for this book, though, I knew it was time to pull on my big-kid pants, dust the thing off, and give it another go. If so many of you could learn your way around an Instant Pot, so could I . . . especially if I wanted to taste-test these recipes for myself. I asked Whole30’s in-house recipe creative, Sarah Steffens, for her best slow-cooker and Instant Pot tips. (You can find them on page xxi.) After reading through her helpful hints, I realized I was overthinking it.

It’s like two buttons, Melissa. You can handle that.

Following the Instant Pot instructions in the sidebar, I made my first official Whole30 Instant Pot recipe—the Chicken, Lime, and Avocado Soup from guest contributor Alex Snodgrass (page 93). It was everything I’d hoped it would be. Delicious, hearty Whole30 ingredients dumped into one pot, magically transformed into a complete meal in under an hour . . . with very little hands-on time. A little chopping, a little measuring, and BOOM, we had soup.

What TOOK me so long?

Today, I’m seeing the Instant Pot everywhere, but whether you’re in on the trend of pressure cooking or in a committed relationship with your slow cooker, these kitchen tools are mission-critical for your Whole30. Sure, the program itself is only 30 days, and you could cook everything by hand in the oven or on the stovetop for a month. But in a survey of nearly 5,000 Whole30 alumni, 72 percent of them said they had retained most of the healthy habits they learned during their Whole30 program more than a year after their program was over. That means you’ll almost surely still be happily cooking mostly Whole30 meals a year from now! And a year-plus is a long time to cook everything by hand on demand.

Learning to incorporate a slow cooker or Instant Pot into your weekly routine will make mealtime—especially weeknight dinners and leftover lunches—fit seamlessly around work, kids, exercise, homework, laundry, and social events. You can prep in the morning and set for dinner, as I do, or prep the night before, taking two minutes to toss it all in the next day. (Or, prep in the evening and let it cook overnight*, waking up to the delicious smell of “what’s for dinner tonight?” victory.)

And if slow cooking brings to mind the heavy, uniformly brown, sometimes tough stews your mom used to make . . . think twice. We’ve got salads, wraps, veggie “noodle” dishes, even fish and shellfish that can be prepared quickly and easily in your slow cooker or Instant Pot. Light, fresh, company-worthy dishes with a secret—you barely did any work at all to take them from ingredients to a complete meal. And many of the recipes make extra, because on the Whole30, leftovers are gold. Plain old eggs for breakfast take on new life when topped with leftover pork belly (Pork Belly Breakfast Bowl, page 141), and lunchtime is exciting again when you’re bringing in Sesame Chicken Wraps (page 20). Just be prepared for “What kind of gourmet lunch are you eating today?” from your co-workers.

Before we dive into Sarah’s best Instant Pot and slow cooker tips, and the more than 150 delicious all-new recipes in this book, I’ll also give you a quick review the Whole30 program basics. Whether it’s your first Whole30 or your fourth, it never hurts to refresh your memory on the rules or useful tips to help you prepare for Day 1. (For a detailed guide to everything you need to know to succeed with the program, see The Whole30: The 30-Day Guide to Total Health and Food Freedom.)

I hope the recipes and cooking techniques in this book help you enjoy this Whole30 experience more than any other, getting you out of the kitchen and enjoying all the benefits the program has to offer faster and easier than ever. Happy slow (or quick) Whole30 cooking!

Best in health,


*Yes, I’ve se
baker’s yeast, cold pasta salad recipes, what is a vegan diet, desserts recipes, upma,
the Author

Other Books by Emeril Lagasse




About the Publisher

c o n t e n t s v i i i

st Many, many people have contributed to the fun and the creation of this amazing book. Let’s face it, grilling indoors or

outdoors is always fun and benefi ts from having many helping hands


onboard. My thanks go out to all of you!

My loving and supportive family

My wife, Alden. My children, Jessie, Jillian, EJ, and Meril. Mom and

Dad. My brother, Mark, and my sister- in- law, Wendi, and their daugh-

ter, Katie Bug. Sister Deloris and her son, Jason, and last but not least,


our new grandbaby, Jude.

The Emeril’s Homebase culinary team


Charlotte Martory for her amazing vision and talents, and for the talents

of Alain Joseph, Stacey Meyer, Angela Sagabaen, and Kamili Hemphill.


Thank you.

The amazing team at Emeril’s Homebase

Eric Linquest, Tony Cruz, Dave McCelvey, Marti Dalton, Chef Chris


Wilson, Chef Bernard Carmouche, Chef Dana D’Anzi, Tony Lott, Scott

Farber, Doug Doran, George Ditta. Thank you for all of your support

and friendship.


The Steven Freeman photography team

Wow! Such photo-capturing moments!


Steven Freeman

Kevin Guiler

Josh Maready

The Martha Stewart team

Martha Stewart, for her creativity and dedication. Charles Koppleman,


for being such a great chairman. Robin Marino and Wenda Harris Mil-

lard, co-CEOs, for their friendship and leadership. Leslie Stockton and

the entire test kitchen staff, especially Gabe, Elizabeth, and Miss Geri.

Special thanks to Lucinda Scala Quinn for her special vision and



My Super M’s

Mara Warner Jones

Michelle Terrebonne

Maggie McCabe

Special thanks to Mimi Rice for her amazing eyes and constant photo editing. Also, where would we have been without TJ Pitre, whose technical assistance made the whole shoot come together.

Style team

Jed Holtz— our awesome prop designer

Charissa Melnik— our wonderful culinary stylist

Shelley Van Gage

Our partners at HarperStudio

Bob Miller, Debbie Stier, Sarah Burningham, Julia Cheiffetz, Katie Salisbury, Mary Schuck, Leah Carlson- Stanisic, Kim Lewis, Lorie Young, Nikki Cutler, Doug Jones, Kathie Ness, Ann Cahn

Our wonderful partners at All- Clad, T-Fal, Weber, and Wusthof.

My friends and amazing purveyors at Leonard Simchick Prime Meats and Fresh Poultry and Pisacane Fish Market.

The hardworking staff at each of my restaurants— Emeril’s New Orleans, NOLA, Emeril’s Delmonico, Emeril’s New Orleans Fish House, Delmonico Steak house, Emeril’s Orlando, Tchoup Chop, Emeril’s Miami Beach, Emeril’s Gulf Coast Fish House, and Table 10.

All the great, hardworking people at Homebase that make it all happen.

My good friends, Frank and Richard Santorsola.

My man, Sherif—you’re always there and you’re always on time.

My agent and friend, Jim Griffi n.

My trusted friend and lawyer of twenty years, Mark Stein.

And last but not least, where would I be without Tony Cruz, my dear friend and business partner. Special, special thanks to him and his wife, Lizzy, and their daughter, Mallory, for their friendship, love, and support.

a c k n o w l e d g m e n t s x i



uc Oh, yeah, babe. What can I say? You know, growing up

in Fall River with my dad, Mr. John, at the head of every grilling

d opportunity really paved the way for my love of the grill. It didn’t matter if it was Dad’s day off from work, or if he and my mom, Hilda, were

having a family gathering at the house, or even if it was one of those

o beach cookouts that we all loved, digging for clams and swimming and just having a fun, laid- back time with the family. There is something

about the grilling experience that just meant good times for me from

r an early age. Dad would shop and set up the party, Mom would be in the kitchen, cooking up the sides, and then, when the time was right,

they’d light the fi re and share a beer as the coals got nice and hot. Let

t me tell you, folks, this was defi nitely not just about hot dogs and hamburgers!

So when I sat down to get started on this book, the memories

just came fl ooding in. Many of the recipes included here are inspired

from those family times, and many have come from friends and ex-

periences along the way. The common theme is that they are simple,

In fun, approachable, and incredibly tasty and delicious— and that there is something for everyone, for every season. Since my family loves to

grill year- round, I’ve tried to give tips on how many of these recipes

work great on indoor grills when the weather isn’t so inviting. Because let’s face it: when the grill calls, you’ve just gotta make it happen!

After years of seeing friends sweat when faced with a grilling challenge, I’ve come to realize tha
grill deals, history of chocolate, thai delivery near me, breakfast recipes, diabetic dessert recipes,
se tauchen, darin wenden und herausheben.

5 So nach und nach genüsslich Stück für Stück mit dem warmen Käse überziehen und genießen. Dabei immer wieder mit dem Brot am Topfboden entlang streichen, damit nichts anbrennt. Die Käsemasse ab und zu mit dem Rührlöffel kräftig durchrühren, damit sie sich nicht entmischt.


Rechnen Sie pro Person mindestens 150 g Käse. Manche Rezepte sehen sogar bis zu 300 g Käse vor. Dabei kann ruhig ein Rest Käsemasse übrig bleiben. Denn wenn bis zu 6 Leute ihre Gabel in den Topf stecken, soll schließlich bis zum Ende des Fondueessens immer noch genügend flüssige Käsemasse im Topf sein, in der jeder tunken, rühren und bis zum letzten Bissen genießen kann.

schmeckt mit Roggenbrot

Käsefondue mit Bacon

1 kleine Zwiebel

600 g Butterkäse

50 g fein gewürfelter Bacon

100 g passierte Tomaten

75 ml kräftiger Weißwein (z.B. Edelzwicker)

1 EL Speisestärke

3 EL Milch

edelsüßes Paprikapulver


weißer Pfeffer

getrockneter Majoran

1 Prise Zucker (nach Belieben)

Für 4 Personen

25 Min. Zubereitung

Pro Portion 1000 kcal, 39 g EW, 60 g F, 73 g KH

1 Zwiebel schälen, fein hacken. Käse grob raspeln. Bacon mit Zwiebeln im Fonduetopf auf dem Herd bei schwacher Hitze glasig dünsten. Mit passierten Tomaten und Wein ablöschen. Den Käse nach und nach mit dem Rührlöffel einrühren und schmelzen lassen (siehe Grundrezept >).

2 Die Stärke mit Milch verquirlen, zugießen, unter Rühren einmal aufkochen und andicken lassen. Mit Paprikapulver, Salz, Pfeffer sowie Majoran und nach Belieben mit Zucker abschmecken.



1 Knoblauchzehe

750 g junger Brie (ohne Rinde gewogen)

450 ml Cidre

2 EL Zitronensaft

15–20 g Mehl

mittelscharfer Senf

weißer Pfeffer

Für 4 Personen

20 Min. Zubereitung

Pro Portion 1010 kcal, 51 g EW, 50 g F, 81 g KH

1 Knoblauch halbieren, die Hälften auf eine Gabel spießen, den Fonduetopf damit ausreiben. Käseteig in sehr kleine Stücke schneiden. Cidre und Zitronensaft mischen.

2 Käse und Cidre bis auf 3 EL portionsweise in den Fonduetopf geben, auf dem Herd bei mittlerer Hitze unter Rühren schmelzen und sich verbinden (siehe Grundrezept >) lassen. Das Mehl mit übrigem Cidre anrühren, zum Käse geben, unter Rühren aufkochen und andicken lassen. Mit Senf und Pfeffer würzen. Nach Belieben Zucchinistücke, frische Pilze und Brot zum Tunken dazu reichen.



75 g Haselnusskerne

600 g Chester

1 Knoblauchzehe

2 EL Butter

100 ml Milch

400 ml Weißwein (z.B. Gewürztraminer)

1 EL Speisestärke

2–4 cl Aprikosengeist

weißer Pfeffer

Für 4 Personen

30 Min. Zubereitung

Pro Portion 1245 kcal, 53 g EW, 66 g F, 91 g KH

1 Die Nüsse sehr fein mahlen. Den Käse grob raspeln. Knoblauch schälen und sehr fein hacken.

2 Die Butter im Fonduetopf auf dem Herd erhitzen, bis sie beginnt zu schäumen, Knoblauch und Nüsse darin goldbraun rösten.

3 Abwechselnd und portionsweise Milch, Käse und Wein unter Rühren in den Topf geben, schmelzen und sich verbinden lassen (siehe Grundrezept >). Die Stärke mit Aprikosengeist verrühren, unter Rühren in die Käsemasse geben und einmal aufkochen lassen. Mit Pfeffer würzen.

schmeckt mit Laugengebäck

Käsefondue mit Bier

1/2 Bund glatte Petersilie

600 g Tilsiter mit Kümmel

4 EL Zitronensaft

300 ml Pils

1 EL Speisestärke

4 cl Whiskey

gemahlener Ingwer

Zucker (nach Belieben)

Für 4 Personen

25 Min. Zubereitung

Pro Portion 890 kcal, 47 g EW, 41 g F, 70 g KH

1 Die Petersilie waschen und trockenschütteln, die Blättchen hacken. Den Käse grob reiben. Mit Zitronensaft in den Fonduetopf geben und unter Rühren bei schwacher Hitze schmelzen lassen.

2 Unter weiterem Rühren nach und nach das Bier dazugießen und bis zum Siedepunkt erhitzen. Die Stärke mit Whiskey glatt verrühren und in die Käsemasse einrühren.

3 Alles unter Rühren einmal aufkochen lassen. Mit Ingwer und nach Belieben mit Zucker abschmecken, mit Petersilie bestreut servieren.

bunt und gesund

Käsefondue mit Kartoffeln und Gemüse

Mit den vielen verschiedenen Zutaten zum Eintauchen ist dieses Grundrezept ideal für eine größere Runde von 6 Personen.


800 g fest kochende Kartoffeln (z.B. Nicola, Sieglinde, Sigma)

2 EL Öl



edelsüßes Paprikapulver

1 l Gemüsebrühe

800 g gemischtes geputztes Gemüse (z.B. Blumenkohl, Romanesco, Möhren, Champignons, Paprikaschote, Fenchel, Staudensellerie)

Backpapier für das Blech

Für das Fondue

800 g Emmentaler (oder Gouda)

2 Zwiebeln

1 Bund glatte Petersilie

100 g Butter

etwa 1/2 l Milch

2 EL Speisestärke

weißer Pfeffer

Für 6 Personen

50 Min. Zu
custard slice, bartender drinks, outback steak, jello recipes, authentic chinese recipes,
eiseitestellen und abkühlen lassen, dann auf den Törtchen verteilen.

5 Die Kuvertüre fein hacken. Sahne und Butter aufkochen, die Kuvertüre unterrühren und schmelzen lassen. Die Ganache auf die Törtchen geben und abkühlen lassen. Beseitegestelltes Nugat mit einem Spritzbeutel in Tupfen auf die Törtchen spritzen.

Engadiner Nusstörtchen

Ein Törtchen auf die feine Schweizer Art! Die Engadiner lieben ihre Baumnüsse sehr, so nennen sie die Walnüsse. Und ich habe ihr berühmtes Tortenrezept neu kreiert.

600 g Mürbeteig siehe >

Für die Füllung:

170 g Walnusskerne

35 g Orangeat

65 g Sahne

180 g Zucker

35 g Butter

130 g Marzipanrohmasse

50 g Honig

Mark von ½ Vanilleschote

1 Ei

Für die Deko:

Puderzucker zum Bestreuen

12 Walnusshälften

50 g Zartbitterkuvertüre


Mehl zum Arbeiten

Butter für die Förmchen

2 Ausstecher (10 cm ∅ und 8 cm ∅)

Gelingt leicht

Für 12 Tarteletteförmchen (à ca. 10 cm ∅)

1 Std. 25 Min. Zubereitung

25 Min. Backen

Pro Stück ca. 350 kcal, 4 g EW, 42 g F, 38 g KH

1 Den Mürbeteig nach dem Grundrezept siehe > zubereiten und kühlen. Metallförmchen einfetten. 600 g Teig auf einer bemehlten Arbeitsfläche messerrückendick (ca. 3 mm) ausrollen. Mit dem großen Ausstecher 12 Kreise ausstechen. Die Teigkreise in die Förmchen legen. Übrigen Teig beiseitelegen. Die Förmchen bis zur weiteren Verwendung kalt stellen.

2 Walnusskerne grob und Orangeat fein hacken. Sahne erhitzen. Zucker in einer Pfanne goldbraun schmelzen lassen. Butter unterrühren und mit Sahne ablöschen (Vorsicht heiß!). Die Mischung beiseitestellen, Marzipanrohmasse stückchenweise unterrühren. Honig, Vanillemark, Nüsse und Orangeat unter die Füllung rühren.

3 Die Füllung auf dem Teig in den Förmchen verteilen und glatt streichen. Ofen auf 180° vorheizen. Übrigen Teig auf einer bemehlten Arbeitsfläche ausrollen und 12 Kreise (ca. 8 cm ∅) ausstechen. Je 1 Törtchen damit abdecken, den Rand so andrücken, dass kein Spalt bleibt. Ei verquirlen, die Törtchen damit bestreichen. Mit einer Gabel ein Wellenmuster einritzen. Die Törtchen im Ofen (Mitte) in 20 – 25 Min. goldbraun backen.

4 Törtchen auskühlen lassen, dann herauslösen. Für die Deko eine Schablone (ca. 4,5 cm ∅) aus Pappe ausschneiden. Diese in die Mitte der Törtchen legen und mit Puderzucker bestreuen, sodass ein Puderzuckerrand entsteht. 25 g Kuvertüre grob und 25 g Kuvertüre fein hacken. Die grob gehackte Kuvertüre über dem heißen Wasserbad schmelzen lassen. Fein gehackte Kuvertüre zum Temperieren (siehe >) verwenden. Walnüsse halb hineintauchen und in die Mitte der Törtchen legen.


Eine saftige Variante von einem Klassiker aus Österreich, den jeder kennt, die Sachertorte! Wenn Sie diese Törtchen probiert haben, müssen Sie nicht mehr nach Wien fahren.

65 g Butter

110 g gemahlene Haselnüsse

5 Eiweiß (150 g)

120 g Zucker

5 Eigelb (100 g)

95 g Mehl

25 g Kakaopulver

1 Prise gemahlene Vanille

1 Prise Zimtpulver

80 g Puderzucker

120 ml Weinbrand

ca. 230 g Himbeerkonfitüre

ca. 400 g Giandujamasse (siehe >)

30 g Vollmilchkuvertüre


Für 12 Silikonförmchen (à ca. 90 ml)

1 Std. 15 Min. Zubereitung

25 Min. Backen

Pro Stück ca. 540 kcal, 8 g EW, 54 g F, 60 g KH

1 Std. 30 Min. Einfrieren oder Kühlen

1 Den Backofen auf 180° vorheizen. Die Butter zerlassen und beiseitestellen. Die Haselnüsse in einer Pfanne rösten, bis sie duften. Eiweiße und Zucker mit dem Handrührgerät schaumig rühren. Die Eigelbe schaumig rühren. Beides in eine Schüssel geben und vorsichtig mischen. Mehl und Kakaopulver darübersieben, mit Nüssen, gemahlener Vanille und Zimtpulver untermischen. Flüssige Butter vorsichtig unterheben. Den Teig in die Förmchen füllen. Im Backofen (Mitte) 20 – 25 Minuten backen. Herausnehmen und auskühlen lassen.

2 Puderzucker, Weinbrand und 80 ml Wasser verrühren. Die Sacherböden aus den Förmchen nehmen, oben gerade schneiden und waagerecht in drei Teile schneiden. Die kleineren Böden in die Förmchen legen. Die Himbeerkonfitüre glatt rühren. Untere Böden zuerst mit der Tränke bepinseln, dann mit 1 gehäuften TL Himbeerkonfitüre bestreichen. Die mittleren Böden darauflegen, tränken und mit Konfitüre bestreichen. Den jeweils dritten Boden daraufsetzen und mit Tränke bepinseln. Anschließend die Törtchen kalt stellen oder 1 Std. 30 Min. einfrieren.

3 Inzwischen die Giandujamasse (siehe >) zubereiten. Die Kuvertüre temperieren (siehe >) und 12 Motive in S-Form herstellen. Die Törtchen aus den Förmchen nehmen, auf ein Kuchengitter stellen und mit der Giandujamasse überziehen. Dafür auf jedes Törtchen 1 EL Giandujamasse geben und mi
quids; a kitchen scale, digital or analog; fish spatulas, for anything that needs a delicate hand to flip (not just fish); an instant-read thermometer for cooking meat and baking bread; a Microplane grater for finely grating ginger and garlic; a mandoline to make quick work of slicing vegetables or fruit (look for ones by Benriner); and a Y-shaped vegetable peeler, because I am terrible at peeling with a paring knife.



Serves 2 or 3

There is no dish that I associate more with comfort food and childhood memories of nurturing warmth than congee. In my household we called it xi fan. My husband grew up with the Korean equivalent, jook. By either name it is essentially a gentle, soothing rice porridge, made by simmering rice in more water than seems necessary, for longer than seems prudent, until the rice grains nearly melt into one another. The resulting mixture is milky-white, almost creamy. It is delicious when prepared both sweet and savory. A bowlful with a sprinkling of sugar is reminiscent of rice pudding for breakfast, or you can add a hearty handful of shredded pork floss; add a little sesame oil and soy sauce, and you have the cure-all that my mother made whenever I was sick as a child. Some leftover chicken and a soft-poached egg will turn it into a hearty lunch. The possibilities are myriad—some suggestions are included here, but there are so many more for you to explore.

2 cups cooked short-or medium-grain white rice, or ⅔ cup uncooked

6 to 7 cups water or chicken stock (for a savory congee), or more as needed


1 to 2 tablespoons sugar per bowl

Pork floss (rousong, pork sung, or pork fu)

1 to 2 teaspoons sesame oil per bowl

2 teaspoons soy sauce per bowl

Soft-boiled or poached eggs (any size)

Shredded chicken

Scallions, sliced

Salt and black pepper, to taste

1 In a medium saucepan over high heat, combine the rice and water. (If you like a thick congee, you can start with 5 cups of water and add more later as needed.)

2 Bring to a boil, then reduce the heat to medium-low, or low enough to keep the congee at a gentle simmer. Cook, stirring every 10 minutes or so, until the rice grains burst open and the congee reaches your desired consistency—if using cooked rice, 20 to 25 minutes; if using uncooked rice, about 1 hour. For a thinner congee, add more water near the end; for a thicker consistency, continue to cook until it thickens to your liking. It will continue to thicken as it cools.

3 Add toppings and seasonings of your choice. My favorites as a child were simple: a bit of sugar for a sweet oatmeal-like breakfast, or both sugar and pork floss for a sweet-and-savory combination. For a more elaborate meal, add sesame oil, soy sauce, a soft-boiled or poached egg, shredded chicken, and sliced scallions, and season with salt and pepper to taste. Serve immediately!


This recipe is easily halved or doubled as needed, and leftovers will reheat just fine, though you may need to add a few tablespoons of water to loosen the congee the next day.

cooking in the land of peking ravioli

I ARRIVED IN CAMBRIDGE, MASSACHUSETTS, ON a brilliantly sunny day in August. There was no hint of the legendary Boston winters I’d heard about—the air was thick and hot, my brick-paved, leafy campus slow-moving and sleepy. It was my orientation for three years of law school, and I had no idea what to expect, from either my newly pursued profession or the city in which I would pursue it.

My classmates and I spent our days in steeply tiered, horseshoe-shaped classrooms, scribbling notes on lectures and crossing our fingers that we wouldn’t be one of the few interrogated by our professors about the reading that day. The evenings were for burying our noses in thick crimson textbooks, staining our fingertips with highlighters, and reading case after case for the next day, when we’d do it all over again. Surrounded by the most accomplished people I’d ever met and about eight hundred miles from home, I was more nervous than I’d ever felt in a new place. Was I meant to be a lawyer? Was everyone here smarter than me? Did I have enough warm clothing?

The cure to any fleeting homesickness I’d had during college was simple. Call home, hop in the car, and, three hours later, walk through the door into a kitchen filled with the sounds and smells of my mother’s cooking—the crash and hiss of a heap of cold green beans hitting a hot wok (this page), spicy lamb shanks simmering until fall-apart tender (this page), a pot of “Russian” soup (this page) sending wisps of steam up to the ceiling. Here, though, a plane flight stood between my family and me, and even though it was barely two hours in the air, home felt a world away.

So I did the next best thing I could think


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